When it comes to feeling special, few experiences rival a journey aboard a Belmond train.
From white-tie waiters to cloches so polished you could fix your hair in them, it’s silver service elevated to platinum. Short of being handed the backdoor key to Buck House, it’s hard to imagine feeling more like royalty.
Indeed, one of the first things you notice when the British Pullman pulls up to the platform at Victoria is the glossy black-and-gold plaque on the side of the engine car: ‘By Appointment to His Majesty The King’. (I hope he doesn’t mind us borrowing it for the evening.)
The Pullman is a stunningly restored 1920s train that’s not only transported royalty, but also been a star of the silver screen – most recently in Paddington 2. Each whimsically named carriage has a story to tell. In the case of ours, Ibis, it has 100 years of them.
Celebrating a century of service this year, Ibis is Belmond’s oldest carriage – its marquetry, medallions and Liberty print upholstery a treasured favourite of regular patrons.
British Pullman Ibis carriage
Mark Fox
British Pullman Ibis carriage
Mark Fox
Ibis began its life gliding between Milan and Venice as part of the storied Simplon-Orient-Express. In 1927, it was reassigned to the Deauville Express – a glamorous service created to lure affluent Parisians to the Deauville Casino. The train featured four sleeping cars on an afternoon schedule, a detail that raised more than a few eyebrows at the time.
The following summer marked Ibis’s final continental journey, operating on the Pullman Express between Paris and Ostend. In 1930, the carriage returned to Britain to serve on the legendary Golden Arrow, a route it proudly held until 1952.
For the next decade or so, Ibis was part of the prestigious Cunard boat train, before being officially retired in 1968. It was later lovingly restored and returned to service.
The second you step aboard, it’s like you’ve walked into an Agatha Christie novel (but hopefully with fewer murders).
As you settle back into the plush wingback armchairs, your bespoke crystal champagne flute is duly filled with vintage Pol Roger Champagne – a favourite of Sir Winston Churchill, no less. (Churchill used Pullman car No. 246, named Lydia, during the Second World War for wartime strategy meetings. The Pullman was later employed during his state funeral in 1965.)
Charlie McKay
Possibly the finest sourdough bread you’ll ever eat is served next, while you contemplate the menu ahead. Belmond has real form here, with cuisine that can easily rival heavyweight London restaurants despite the obvious challenges of kitchen scale and equipment. The dishes vary depending on the date and journey – ranging from afternoon teas to multi-course dinners.
In our case, we were here for the Celebrity Chef Dinner Series. The roster for 2025 features four of the UK’s most esteemed Michelin-starred chefs: Theo Randall, Phil Howard, Andrew Wong, and Atul Kochhar – each curating a unique five-course tasting menu.
Randall kicked off proceedings back in April, while for our trip this May, Phil Howard took the reins. With more than 17 years of two-Michelin-starred experience, Howard’s menu was delivered with his trademark precision, and featured some stalwart classics such as roasted saddle of spring lamb with garlic purée and rosemary-infused sauce.
My standout was a starter of Dover sole, skate and smoked eel, served with a crisp, salty Chenin Blanc grown from 80-year-old vines in the village of Parnay.
I think Howard must have had a glint in his eye when he proposed the asparagus velouté. It was served – as it would have been a century ago – from a giant, ornate soup tureen. The potential for the intense green soup becoming an additional fashion accoutrement was not lost on our poor waiter, who looked as nervous as we felt. However, it was delivered with admirable poise and grace – a delightful addition to a dish of wild morel mushrooms and soft-poached egg.
Will Heap
I shan’t dwell too much further on what we ate – as that particular train has long left the station. But 13 June welcomes Chef Andrew Wong, who promises a modern interpretation of traditional Cantonese dishes. His menu explores China’s five fundamental flavours – sweet, salty, sour, spicy and bitter – providing guests with a culinary journey through 3,000 years of gastronomic heritage.
Concluding the series on 24 October, Chef Atul Kochhar presents his innovative British-Indian fusion cuisine. As the first Indian chef to earn a Michelin star, Kochhar’s menu includes inventive dishes like chicken tikka pie and nori- and spice-cured Scottish salmon with coconut moilee, reflecting his philosophy of blending traditional Indian flavours with the finest British ingredients.
The one thing I can promise you won’t be served is kippers – but not for lack of trying by a certain Mr Laurence Olivier. The Oscar-winning great was another famous patron of the Ibis carriage. Apparently, he was a huge fan of kippers for breakfast. One year, the management decided to stop serving them as a number of other guests had complained about the odour. Olivier was so enraged that he started a petition to bring kippers back onboard – an early example of what we’d now call an influencer campaign. Olivier won out, and the policy was reversed – at least for as long as he graced the train.
It’s these little morsels of history that make the British Pullman so magical. The food may be plated to perfection, the service polished to a mirror shine – but it’s the stories that linger longest. It’s less a train journey, more a time machine.
Poppy Thorpe
The Celebrity Chef Dinner Series operates on 13 June and 24 October 2025. Prices start at £565 per person, inclusive of the round-trip journey, champagne reception, five-course tasting menu, and wine pairings. Departures are from London Victoria Station. For more details and reservations, visit: belmond.com
