When The Macallan opened its new distillery in 2018, it set a new standard for visitor experience in the scotch whisky sector.
The technical design of the building is intended to maximise production efficiency while reducing ecological impact (heat from the distillation process is recaptured and repurposed; the rolling grass roof camouflages the building so it blends with the nature around it – just two examples of the sustainability initiatives involved in the construction) but the most visible aspect to most guests to the estate has been the layout of the distillery tour.
A smart main reception, in a cavernous main hall, opens on to a well-stocked and tastefully designed brand museum, the contents of which – priceless bottlings both ancient and modern, and a complete history of the brand – will dazzle most whisky fans but really only serve as a warm-up for the main event upstairs: an ultra-modern distilling operation and an achingly stylish bar.
The only thing missing was a meal. Contemporary hospitality sees whisky linked with gastronomy more and more often, nowhere more so than in the land of its birth, so it makes sense for the biggest players in the industry to offer their own interpretations. For more than a decade The Macallan have enjoyed a friendship with El Celler de Can Roca, the legendary three Michelin star Catalan restaurant crowned the world’s best on more than one occasion, so who better to take the helm of a new restaurant inside the distillery itself?
The brothers have already collaborated with the brand on a book exploring Scotland’s larder – now they have chosen to work with Macallan again to open their first premises outside Spain to create the TimeSpirit Dining Experience.
The space sits just off the bar area, at the opposite end of the building to the stills. It has been designed by Danish interior architect David Thulstrup – London gastronomes may be familiar with his minimalistic style from visits to Ikoyi at 180 Strand – to blend seamlessly with the existing space.
Giant floor-to-ceiling windows provide magnificent views over the estate while blond oak wood and dark, cool slate – both Scottish, naturally – create a clean, solid aesthetic which feels modern yet homely. Larger tables in a private dining section – separated from the main restaurant by a chic display of Macallan whisky and the Jerez sherry which seasons its casks – are surrounded by more oak, shaped to replicate those casks and offering a more intimate, personal setting than the public dining room.
The overall sensation upon arrival, passing the open kitchen where the finishing touches will be put to all nine of your dinner courses, is that this is a contemporary, welcoming space, and one which meets the standards of luxury to which Macallan always holds itself.
The food is presented with no small amount of theatre. Appetisers are suspended around a globe which wouldn’t look out of place in a library from the time distillation officially began around here, but the flavours were far from old-fashioned. Five small bites represent the 5 cities previously chosen for the Distil Your World series of releases, with the flamboyance and flavour setting the tone for the evening ahead. I’d have preferred a traditional haggis to represent Scotland rather than the vegetarian one used, but the course was impressive nonetheless.
Over the subsequent two hours, my table was treated to a journey through Scottish produce which made frequent references to the art of whisky making – fermented barley served with caramelised yeast tasted like the scent of the distillery, and was a personal highlight; the final chocolate course came with whisky jelly, whisky chocolate ice cream, and, well, whisky – while not appearing gimmicky or contrived.
The showstopper was a beef tenderloin marinated in whisky and served with a Macallan mustard, a dish so good I’d have happily supersized to forego the rest of the menu.
Save the final dessert’s pairing with a gorgeous Macallan 18, each course was presented alongside a wine selection which contained no small amount of sherry. Rather than confine it to the digestif section of the list, sherry was utilised and celebrated throughout the meal, as it is throughout the maturation process of the whisky made here. It was a tactic which worked well to tie the identities of both protagonists, The Macallan and Can Roca, together, and the richness of the courses chosen stood up well to the robust flavours of the wines.
By virtue of its location this restaurant can only be a destination booking – there are few people living round here to casually drop by on a whim. This means the onus is on them to create a dining experience worthy of a trip, be that along from Aberdeen, up from Glasgow or Edinburgh, or even from farther afield. Whisky fans make journeys of thousands of miles to visit Speyside in general and The Macallan in particular, so what they find has to be pretty special. Eating food this good while gazing over arguably the most beautiful countryside in the world, I’m confident they will have.
TimeSpirit Dining Experience at The Macallan Estate is open Thursday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, and for lunch on Sunday. Dinner tasting menu costs £95. Book at themacallan.com.
