Few figures in American wine carry a résumé as rigorously earned – or as richly textured – as Jason Smith MS. His journey began not in a cellar but in a kitchen, where a mandatory wine module at the Culinary Institute of America detonated an unexpected obsession.
It proved formative: after graduating with honours, he achieved the Master Sommelier pin in 2005, joining one of the most selective professional cohorts on the continent.
What followed was a two-decade ascent through the upper echelons of luxury hospitality. At The Little Nell in Aspen and Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, Jason refined his palate, authored tasting notes for Trotter’s cookbooks, and immersed himself in two of America’s most exacting dining rooms.
His move to Las Vegas opened an entirely new scale of ambition. At Bellagio, he rapidly progressed from floor sommelier to Director of Wine, shaping resort-wide programmes and spearheading education for thousands of staff. By 2016, he was overseeing the wine strategy for 20 MGM resorts nationwide – recognition that culminated in Wine Enthusiast naming him “Wine Director of the Year”.
Today, as Vice President Global Strategy and Engagement at Constellation Brands, Jason channels that rare blend of service intuition and strategic acuity into stewarding some of Napa’s most coveted labels.
We caught up over a couple of glasses of water. Only joking. It was wine – mainly chardonnay.
Square Mile: What was your first experience of wine?
Jason Smith: My first real tasting experience with wine was when I was at the Culinary Institute of America in the Wines of the World Class when I was 20 years old. Prior to that, my parents had wine with dinner every evening, so I was always around it.
SM: Was there a lightbulb moment when wine shifted from a course requirement to lifelong passion?
JS: When I was taking the wine course at CIA, I was amazed by the complexity found within a glass of wine. The fact that you could taste blackberries, leather, smoked meat and wet leaves all from fermented grape juice was fascinating to me. Additionally, I love the history and background in the world of wine.
SM: What was the first wine you tasted which really caught your attention?
JS: I was already hired at the ’21 Club in New York City and a bottle of 1994 Domaine Dujac Clos St Denis was a mind-blowing experience that made me realise I would make wine my career for life.
SM: Passing the Master Sommelier exam is famously brutal. What was your biggest personal hurdle during that process – and how did you overcome it?
JS: The blind tasting portion of the exam was the most difficult for me. Luckily, the part of studying that is the most enjoyable is tasting. I worked with some incredible mentors and I just put my head down and tasted all the time.
SM: You cut your teeth at The Little Nell and Charlie Trotter’s, both culinary icons. What lessons from those early days still guide you today?
JS: Even though you will never achieve perfection, during your pursuit, it is possible to reach an unmatched level of excellence. This is a principle that guides the team and I every day.
It is possible to reach an unmatched level of excellence
SM: The Bellagio gave you a platform to shape wine culture on a huge scale. What did leading education for the entire resort’s staff teach you about making wine accessible?
JS: Unfortunately, wine sometimes has the perception of being overly fancy or, at worst conceited. I wanted to make wine fun for both the guests of our properties and also the wine team.
SM: Luxury wine often walks a fine line between exclusivity and accessibility. Where do you think the future of ultra-premium wine lies?
JS: We need to continue to focus on improving quality and introduce the enjoyment of this beverage to more and more people.
SM: What are you working on next – any new varietals in the pipeline?
JS: There aren’t plans for any new wines at the moment. We are continuing our push to make better and better wine every vintage.
SM: If you could only drink one grape for the rest of your life, what would you choose and why?
JS: Chardonnay. It offers a wide range of styles plus you can drink incredible champagne and sparkling wine.
SM: What’s the single best wine you’ve ever tasted?
JS: Any wine that you open and share with friends. There is something so special about the way wine brings people together around the table for laughter, stories and enjoyment of wonder company.
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