Golf has a unique ability to tell the story of a given area. It’s a dynamic narrative that knits together environmental, geological, and human factors to form something greater than a mere 18-hole experience. It’s what the French refer to as terroir when discussing wine or the Japanese would define as tokoro when speaking of the deeper emotional connection to a specific location.
I’ve felt this unique sense of place before as I walked the hallowed fairways of the Old Course in St Andrews, the hairs on the back of my neck standing on end as I allowed the history of The Home of Golf to wash over me – a course that came to life centuries before me and will continue to exist long after I am dust. It was there again when I played Carne on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, the magical layout that was built with pitchforks and shovels and good old-fashioned hard graft. But I was not expecting for the sensation to creep over me as I teed it up at the newest golf course in Barbados, Apes Hill.
Here, in the heat and humidity of the Caribbean, I had anticipated a fairly gentle coastal sojourn among the golden sand and palm trees, but instead I was rocked with intense changes of elevation, exposed craggy coral rock formations, and a dizzying array of tropical flora and fauna that left John Williams’ Jurassic Park theme tune ringing in my ears triumphantly. It’s quite unlike anything I’ve ever seen nor am likely to experience again, because this golf course is not simply in Barbados; Barbados is suffused into the golf course itself.
Located in the aptly named Scotland District – the island’s highest elevation of Mount Hillaby just a short drive away – Apes Hill finds itself situated in something of a geological oddity by the Caribbean’s standards. Unlike its volcanic neighbours, Barbados sits atop the summit of a vast submarine mountain range known as an accretionary prism, a thick wedge of sediment that formed at the juncture of the Atlantic and Caribbean tectonic plates, and forced upward as the two pushed together. Breaching the water’s surface over 500,000 years ago, the Barbados accretionary prism spans several hundred kilometres, extending from Trinidad to Puerto Rico, but it’s only here in the Scotland District that the mountain range rises out of the sea.
Apes Hill’s 12th, 13th and 14th holes are as thrilling (and, indeed, challenging) as any I’ve experienced anywhere around the world
From its highland vantage, 1,000ft above sea level, Apes Hill stands sentry over many of the island’s landmarks. The front nine showcases the famed beach resorts and mansions of Holetown, with the Caribbean Sea glittering in the sun, while the back nine climbs into the hills ever higher until the sand dunes and white-capped breakers of the Atlantic Ocean and the east coast reveal themselves beyond the dense jungle-like vegetation. It’s rare to see the dichotomy between Barbados’ most photographed and inhabited coastline, and the rugged jewel in the east, but Apes Hill proudly displays it through the course of its rollercoaster round.
Like much of the surrounding area, Apes Hill was a sugar plantation before it was acquired by local businessman Sir Charles ‘Cow’ Williams in 1981. Aptly, Cow converted the land into a dairy farm at first, but sensing the diminishing trade of sugar and limited earning potential of agriculture, he soon relocated the livestock and began to convert the 475-acre property into a luxury polo, golf and residential community.
In spite of its unique proposition, over time Apes Hill fell behind the neighbouring golf destinations Royal Westmoreland and Sandy Lane, found closer to the coast, and slowly slipped into the shadows of its world-famous competition. But a change of ownership in 2019 has transformed the estate’s prospects with a new and ambitious vision for the future.
Apes Hill Inc is overseen by primary shareholder Glenn Chamandy, the founder of Canadian clothing brand Gildan Activewear, alongside former Caribbean Hotelier of the Year, Sunil Chatrani. Together, the pair have utilised their accrued business experience to reimagine Apes Hill as an ultra-luxury residential community and lifestyle resort with a focus on sustainability – carefully weaving the extensive development around its spectacular natural surroundings. Apes Hill employed the late, great golf course architect Ron Kirby, best known for his contributions to Gleneagles, The London Club, and Old Head, to conduct the $24m renovation, with a vast swathe of course improvements implemented to make the most of the land movement across the golf property. By the time works were completed in January 2022, the course was not only fine tuned for the high standards of the modern game, but it boasted a charming par three course and a new signature island-green 19th hole, situated in front of the clubhouse.
James Hogg
James Hogg
James Hogg
James Hogg
Perched atop a dramatic series of grassy terraces, the recently constructed clubhouse itself is the beating heart of the property. It’s home to the pro shop and locker room facilities, but more importantly it pays host to the estate’s two restaurants. The 20th Hole is a more casual affair, offering the kind of grab-and-go bites and international favourites that might stave off hunger before heading to the course. The Noisy Cricket, on the other hand, is a more elevated bar and restaurant experience that offers an eclectic mix of European, Mediterranean and Caribbean cuisine that utilises vegetables, herbs and fruit from trees and plants found within the resort’s grounds. Corn and Oil sundowners followed by dinner on the veranda may go down as one of my favourite post-round meals.
However, such fine details pale into insignificance compared to the experience of reaching the course’s best sequence of golf holes. Lovingly referred to as “Amen Corner”, an overt nod to the famous three-hole stretch at Augusta National of the same name, I would gladly contend that Apes Hill’s 12th, 13th and 14th holes are as thrilling (and, indeed, challenging) as any I’ve experienced anywhere around the world.
It begins with a steep buggy ride to the elevated tee box of the par three 12th. Before you, the hole swoops invitingly 225 yards downhill to a broad green framed invitingly by a collection of meteor-like boulders and a deep bunker to the back-right portion of the putting surface. In the distance, the east coast reveals itself for the first time, a crisply struck long iron hanging above the azure horizon line before tumbling back down to dry land.
The next hole is my favourite on the course, with a tee shot that must navigate towering palms and bearded fig trees, the national tree of Barbados. A drive to the left-hand portion of the fairway will scare a steep runoff giving way to dense undergrowth, but taking on the danger leaves a favourable angle from which to challenge a formidable shallow sloping green that stands above a rocky gully.
Without the fairway, the landscape would require a machete rather than a golf club to navigate
Apes Hill never feels on top of itself, whether it’s the neat rows of Courtyard Villas lining the 10th and 18th holes, or the smattering of clubhouse and sports facilities set at the bottom corner of the estate, but here in the far reaches of the property is where I feel most at peace. Were it not for the fairway in front of you, the dense undergrowth blanketing the landscape would require a machete more than a golf club to navigate. It feels like we are discovering a hole in the middle of a jungle, untouched by human intervention.
The 14th delivers the final salvo. With a fairway that gently swings from right to left, flanked by a dense corridor of palms that threaten to snatch your ball as you sail over them, it’s another memorable golf hole in this jungle-like portion of the property. And, yes, though the name might be Apes Hill, it’s the swinging monkeys and tropical birds that own these parts – we’re merely guests for the duration of our stay.
Which brings us onto the business of actually playing Apes Hill. Under the estate’s refresh, the resort has transformed into an exclusive ‘membership by property ownership’ community with vertical membership for the entire family. There is an option to ‘stay and play’ as part of a villa rental programme, but ownership here is something different entirely.
Club initiation for joining members is $125,000, though this is absorbed into the construction of your villa, with the addition of annual dues to the tune of $20,000. The membership package itself provides access to all of the resort’s facilities, including golf, and is multigenerational by design – incorporating a primary member and spouse, plus children, grandchildren, and indeed the grandparents of both the primary member and their spouse.
As for the properties themselves, each of the Apes Hill architectural concepts exemplifies the resort’s commitment to environmentally conscious living, while also offering the highest standards of finishing. The design portfolio spans 3,300sq ft to 6,700sq ft properties, including the single-storey three-bedroom Moondust Villa and the spectacular four-bedroom homes at Seaview Ridge, with panoramic ocean views from their position next to the 1st green. Regardless of your needs, the build pricing is designed to ensure there are no add-ons or surprise costs, with full turnkey solutions available for those looking for minimal hassle.
If the notion of buying property in Barbados conjures images of retired septuagenarians (and older) living out their days in warmer climes, Apes Hill intends to dispel this myth through a sophisticated sports and wellness programme that promotes vitality.
For those seeking to improve at golf, the resort’s performance centre is the most technologically advanced on the island, featuring a state-of-the-art indoor putting studio, swing analysis and biometric coaching. In addition, you’ll find an outdoor driving range, chipping green, and of course the par three course.
But there’s a whole host of facilities designed to supplement the resort’s star attraction. For one, there are bountiful hiking trails, 12.5km to be exact, upon which to allow yourself to leisurely immerse yourself in the spectacular scenery. The impressively appointed gym benefits from a stacked workout programme that ranges from low-key pilates and outdoor yoga to bootcamp-level fat busters. There are also two tennis courts and eight padel courts lined with Tiger Turf, an eco-friendly alternative to real grass that is gentler on the joints.
At only 166 sq miles, Barbados is small compared to other Caribbean destinations, which means that while Apes Hill benefits from a secluded location away from nearby tourist traps, you can still drive around the entirety of the island in three hours, and get to the airport in just 40 minutes.
It also means that the beach is never far out of reach. All Apes Hill residents have access to the five-star Fairmont Royal Pavilion set on Glitter Way Beach, where there are sun loungers and water sports on hand. Should you need assistance with getting there, or help booking anything at all really, the superb concierge team is but a WhatsApp message away.
But why would you ever want to leave the resort? Up in the Barbadian highlands, life moves at an altogether slower pace. Lost in the jungle-like forests of the resort’s magnificent golf course, it’s difficult to have any care in the world. It’s enough to make any visitor go Ape.
For more information, apeshill.com or email info@apeshill.com
