Winter is my favourite season for dressing – and for visiting Pitti Uomo. The need for layers gives so much more room for creativity and expression (read: wearing epic, flamboyant coats); the temperatures in Florence are much closer to what my middle-aged Scottish body was built to handle.
If there’s a better way to begin a year than heading to Italy to discover excellent clothing while ingesting your body weight in pasta and wine (it helps with the crash after Christmas, so it’s medicinal) I’m yet to find it.
This year was even more tailoring-heavy than normal thanks to the presence of guest designer SOSHIOTSUKI and a massive Japanese Suit Walk parade on the first day. But while the flowing shapes of the headline show were pretty impressive, it wasn’t the newcomers who caught my eye.
Rather it was a clutch of brands who’ve been doing their thing quietly for a while now, steadily building a body of work and a market presence worthy of note.
Their offerings for AW26 were comfortably familiar without being tired; steady and accomplished, and eminently and immediately wearable. Here were my favourites…
WALKER SLATER
Let’s start where every winter wardrobe should: Scotland. Edinburgh-based Walker Slater made their name in tweeds and suiting which look more country than City, but recent years have seen that style be more commonly used in all settings and have also seen the brand expand its range to cover even more bases.
Its Conrad coat is a great example of the kind of swagger I look for in outerwear and it’s also added more casual pieces to its range.
None of this has led to forgetting its base though – and the signature tweeds displayed in Florence were a welcome sight. Warm and stylish, much like myself.
See more at walkerslater.com
CROCKETT & JONES
Another country style now firmly at home in the City is the big boot. Stomping around town with massive chunky soles is a great feeling, and when paired with dark denim and a shirt and jacket [see above] they look great.
Crockett & Jones may be renowned for its classic black Oxfords – still office-wardrobe essentials – but it’s also the pioneer in rough-out suede, a durable leather which is waxed on the outside to give extra water resistance and a more rustic appearance.
The Galway model pictured is a great example, but there are Chelseas and Chukkas available if that’s a step too far for you. Either way, it’s a great way to add character to classic styles.
See more at crockettandjones.com
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
The blend of understated and dramatic which has come to characterise Brunello Cucinelli collections never fails to confound me. There are plenty of soft, subtle blazers in shades of cream and blue, then there’s a massive overcoat in a rich burgundy. A bright white jacket with a giant shearling collar, then a sensible slate-grey knit in the softest of cashmere. It’s uncanny. It’s also beautiful, and immensely popular.
Every time I visit its stand in Florence or showroom in Milan, I’m impressed by how simple it manages to make extravagance seem, and how exquisite each piece feels to the touch.
There’s no getting away from how punchy the prices are, but I urge anyone to step into the store and find out for yourself exactly how good these clothes are. There’s only so much I can do to explain it.
See more at brunellocucinelli.com
FRESCOBOL CARIOCA
The most startling thing about the Frescobol Carioca stand at a winter trade show is that it’s there at all. They make excellent swimwear, right? Floaty linen shirts and resort gear, inspired by the beaches of Rio and the relaxed way of life there?
What I found was a selection of garments which brought that coastal attitude to the winter weather, including stylish double-zip knits and a four-pocket overshirt in a stunning green suede which could easily become the anchor of an ‘autumn weekend’ capsule.
Of course, the shorts were still there, and still fantastic – you can always just hop on a flight to somewhere they can still be of use in January.
See more at frescobolcarioca.com
CARL FRIEDRIK
All these clothes have to be carried home (or on holiday, in the case above) and stylish luggage should always be a considered part of your outfit.
Carl Friedrik has built a reputation for delivering the perfect mix of style and function – its hybrid case with the easy-access laptop slot is a godsend for frequent flyers – at an extremely reasonable price-to-quality ratio.
If you’re still sceptical about why your suitcase should be good-looking then treat yourself to a trip to its Regent Street flagship – more gallery than retail space – to be converted. Trust me, it’ll happen.
See more at carlfriedrik.com
HOCKERTY
Nick Hendry
I’ll admit I was caught a little by surprise by the quality of fit Hockerty achieves using its fully digital model. A strong cohort of customers and models wandered around the Pitti Fortezza on day one, happily showing off the brand’s work to convert sceptics like me.
Quality materials put together well can never go too far wrong, but the idea of submitting my own measurements online and trusting what would arrive has never been a comfortable one.
What I found at Pitti, however, was that the system does indeed work, and if anything does go wrong there is a huge network of partner tailors to do any necessary final tweaks.
The brand is so confident those tweaks won’t be needed that they commit to covering the cost, meaning all you have to worry about is which cloth to choose.
A great option for the busy, the recently relocated, or the simply lazy. We all feel that way sometimes.
See more at hockerty.uk
