Crockett & Jones is about as British as a shoemaker gets. It was founded in Northampton in 1879, still occupies the same Perry Street factory it moved into in 1890, and remains in the hands of the founding family. Scratch beneath the surface, though, and you’ll find some surprisingly strong ties to our cousins across the Atlantic.
When Jonathan Jones joined the family firm in 1977, one of the relationships that helped boost the shoemaker’s fortunes was with Ralph Lauren. As Lauren built his vision of American style – itself heavily influenced by British tailoring and country clothing – Crockett & Jones became one of the shoemakers helping put it on his feet.
The partnership would last for decades, encompassing loafers, saddle Oxfords and bluchers, as well as Shell Cordovan footwear. Ralph Lauren even played a part in the development of Crockett & Jones’s Rough-Out Suede, asking the Northampton factory for a rugged leather that would age rather like one of his leather jackets.
Other American institutions followed, including Brooks Brothers and Barneys New York. Eventually, Crockett & Jones put its own name above the door, opening its first standalone US store in New York in 2010; today there are two in Manhattan.
So the American influence you’ll find behind its new AW26 collection isn’t quite the leap it might first appear. Shot in Yosemite National Park to dramatic effect, the collection takes some American footwear archetypes and gives them the full Northampton treatment.
Hickstead 4
From £595
The Hickstead 4 is about as close to a cowboy boot, Crockett & Jones is likely to get.
Its origins lie in Crockett ’s equestrian Jodhpur, complete with the characteristic ankle strap and buckle. For AW26, however, the pattern has been stripped back and streamlined, resulting in something that sits rather between English riding boot and American Western footwear. (Fortunately, no pointy toes or horrific stitching patterns are anywhere to be seen.)
Built on the asymmetric Last 394, it comes in either Dark Brown Scotch Grain or Rough-Out Suede, the latter providing another subtle link back to Crockett & Jones’s American history.
Both versions receive storm welts and chunky Vibram cleated rubber soles, giving an otherwise relatively elegant boot some serious winter credentials. Sophisticated up top, plenty of horse power underneath.
Vail
£650
If Hickstead 4 nods towards the American West, Vail goes full Colorado.
Inspired by the classic American work boot, it takes the substantial proportions you’d expect of the genre and gives them a more polished execution. The apron Derby construction is paired with a padded collar, while two speed hooks provide another suitably outdoorsy touch.
The real star, though, is the Reverse Butt Suede. Soft and richly textured, but naturally durable, it comes in either Dark Brown or a particularly handsome Taupe.
There’s plenty going on beneath it, too. A reverse storm welt helps keep water at bay, while Crockett & Jones’s lightweight cleated Vi-Lite rubber sole provides grip without turning the Vail into a pair of ankle weights.
Boston 2
£525
Loafers and British winters aren’t traditionally the happiest of bedfellows, but the Boston 2 intends to rectify that.
The original Boston is one of Crockett & Jones’s signature designs: a classic penny loafer whose ability to hold the heel securely without laces demonstrates rather more shoemaking nous than its simple appearance might suggest.
Boston 2 takes that familiar silhouette and prepares it for considerably less cooperative weather.
There are two versions: Black Rough-Out Suede and water-resistant Dark Oak Suede. Both sit on lightweight Vi-Lite rubber soles, complete with a reverse storm welt to provide additional protection from the elements.
The result is effectively a winterised Boston – all the relaxed versatility of the original, but considerably better equipped for a wet Tuesday in Massachusetts. Or Mayfair for that matter.
And while it might be the least overtly outdoorsy member of the new collection, it’s arguably the one you’ll get the most wear out of.
Aspen
£675
Aspen may sound thoroughly American, but its roots are closer to home.
The new split-toe Derby boot is a reworking of Crockett & Jones’s Wicklow, an archival design from around a decade ago, now given considerably more character.
Most obvious is the distinctive galosh side ‘V’ pattern borrowed from the brand’s Snowdon boot, while a hand-raised seam apron and traditional leather back strap keep things firmly in classic Crockett & Jones territory.
Two suitably serious leathers are offered: Dark Brown Hatch Grain and Dark Brown Waterproof Sides. Underneath sits a British-made Commando rubber sole using an updated compound designed to combine substantial grip with greater flexibility.
The whole thing is constructed on Last 371, notable for its walled shape, upturned toe and close-fitting heel.
Of the four new arrivals, Aspen is perhaps the most traditionally Crockett & Jones, but with enough ruggedness dialled in to make perfect sense on either side of the Atlantic.
See more at crockettandjones.com
