The most recent edition of London Fashion Week was similar to the previous one, in that it was dominated by a day in the park with Burberry.
The tent changed colour, and decanted from south to north to take up residence in Highbury Fields, but the continued reinvigoration of the English super-luxe behemoth by Daniel Lee remained the biggest date on the schedule and most talked-about show of the week.
Burberry engaged heavily with the city as a whole this week, taking over Norman’s Cafe in Tufnell Park and renaming Bond Street Tube to commemorate the re-opening of its flagship store on the street, before hosting a star-studded (and frankly massive) show under the canvas to display their new looks for next summer.
The colour used for that Bond Street makeover was named “Knight Blue”, a reference to the famous emblem of the brand and one of the colours chosen by Lee to illustrate a return to Burberry’s English roots.
Embracing that heritage, and London as the home base, would appear to be key to his vision. The invitation of a host of London-based stars, from Jason Statham and Bukayo Saka to Skepta and Damon Albarn, to line the front row presented further evidence of the intention.
The clothes themselves underlined the commitment to presenting a version of Burberry rooted in the past but adapted to modern tastes and styles.
The entire Burberry SS24 collection speaks of a brand which is aware, and rightfully proud, of its history
The classic, and truly iconic, trenchcoat is reimagined for lighter summer use and emblazoned with exploded aspects of the Knight emblem; tailoring is presented in classic double-breasted shapes with up-to-date twists to the fit and fabric.
Prints were prominent across shirting and knits, resplendent in the classic house check pattern.
The entire Burberry SS24 collection speaks of a brand which is aware, and rightfully proud, of its history not just in English fashion but on the global stage; it speaks also of a brand determined to evolve and adapt in order to maintain a position among the international fashion elite for many more years to come.
While Burberry was clearly the biggest name of this latest LFW, the wide range of smaller brands displaying their new collections still had some memorable creations to display, and innovative ways of bringing them to our attention.
American designer Jeff Garner presented the new offerings from his Prophetik brand on Thursday night at Burlington Arcade – his horse stopped traffic on the road outside, before guests were treated to first look at entirely plant-based garments which were reminiscent of rural America around 100 years ago.
Prophetik London Fashion Week show at Burlington Arcade
Alla Bogdanovic
Prophetik London Fashion Week show at Burlington Arcade
Alla Bogdanovic
Flamboyant tailoring in vibrant colours was a particular highlight. Garner has built a reputation over the years dressing musicians from his native Tennessee – Kings of Leon and Sheryl Crow among them – and brought that rock star swagger to this show.
Across town on Sunday night womenswear brand Rue Agthonis took over a massive swathe of the impressive Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel on Russell Square for the biggest show in their LFW history.
The sharp tailored shapes and bright tweed patterns which designer Syl has become known for were once again in evidence, and the whole production gave the impression of a brand very much on an upward trajectory.
For now, it may still be one of the smaller names on the roster, but surely won’t be for much longer.
Among all the unusual and impressive venues used for shows throughout London Fashion Week arguably the most spectacular must surely be the Italian Embassy on Grosvenor Square, which hosted a Malone Souliers presentation on Monday morning.
Its shoes have exploded in popularity in fewer than 10 years since the brand’s founding, with the flagship store in Mount Street becoming a must-visit for London’s most informed shoppers.
The drama and exuberance of the heels displayed were expertly contrasted against the incredible artwork permanently residing on the embassy’s walls, but it was a particularly sparkly pair of boots which really stole the show.
Malone Souliers at the Italian Embassy on Grosvenor Square
This show in this setting summed up London Fashion Week pretty well: fearless innovation blending effortlessly with historic surroundings.
