Following fashion brands around Europe, learning what they believe we should all be wearing 12 months from now, is a tough way to begin the summer.
Not tough in the ‘coal face, back-breaking labour’ sense, of course, more tough in the ‘can a man in his 40s really handle this much Campari and carbonara?’ sense.
The summer season in general, and Pitti Uomo in particular, is a long slog of searing temperatures, soaring step counts, and shameless posturing from all involved. But I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t brilliant fun.
Discovering new brands, re-connecting with old friends, and generally bearing witness to some incredible displays of personal style (and a fair amount of performative nonsense) is a privilege, and I’m grateful I get to do it.
To pay appropriate tribute to the thousands of brands present at the Fortezza da Basso this June, I thought I’d hand out some awards. The selection process was entirely non-scientific and based purely on my whim; I shall not be delivering any prizes or trophies to the winners; and categories were invented in real time as I typed this.
Despite all that, they should be taken as a genuine appreciation of the work done by the winners, and all the fantastic makers present each season in Florence, to make menswear a creative, dynamic industry in which to work, and to allow us all to express our personal style with their garments. Bravo to all involved.
Best Tailoring Collection/Coolest Owner
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli has long been known for superbly luxurious ready-to-wear tailoring, but in recent seasons it has adopted a more relaxed, contemporary approach to its traditional Italian sartorialism.
The journey in this direction continued apace with its summer 2026 collection, with fuller cuts, slightly longer jackets and wider trouser legs seen throughout. Vibrant shades of purple and red were the common theme running through, as well as an uncharacteristic all-black ensemble to act as foil, and much of the suiting presented was styled over simple graphic tees to further underline the shift away from strict formality.
Those T-shirts are printed with logos designed as a nod to Sig. Cucinelli himself having recently received an honorary doctorate in architecture to recognise, among other achievements, his success in building a global brand which places great importance on respecting the humans involved in its creation, instead of merely on the bottom line.
It’s for you to decide which honour is more prestigious, that one or this, but I know which I’d choose.
Best Resort Wear/Most Impressive Indoor Lemon Trees
Orlebar Brown
Sartorial swim shorts aren’t something I ever thought I’d come across, and definitely aren’t something you’d expect an English brand to lead the market in. Believe it or not, that is where Orlebar Brown started, but today it offers so much more.
In the past few years, it has developed into a complete resort wear brand, offering everything you need for a few days in the sun, from pool to bar to laid-back-yet-stylish summer soirée.
If you’re feeling extra opulent, it now offers a silk version of its signature Bulldog swim shorts. But in the main, its collections blend practical, understated beachwear with more vibrant prints for the evening in a range of fabrics more commonly thought of for high summer.
Best Footwear/Most Reliable Taste of London
Crockett & Jones
In the midst of chaos, there’s a lot to be said for calming familiarity. Crockett & Jones builds a fairly accurate facsimile of its Burlington Arcade store (at least that’s what it feels like to me) every season of Pitti Uomo, always at the same ‘address’ in the main building of the show complex and always full to the rafters with warm welcomes.
This makes it one of the best places to swing by when exploring the myriad of options, plus it always has one of the best selections of stylish shoes to look at.
There are no trend-chasing ‘innovations’ here, just the same adherence to quality and craftsmanship which has seen the brand operate for well over a century and a steady stream of timeless footwear to finish off any outfit. Classic for a reason.
Best Obscure Italian Brand You Hadn’t Heard Of
Briglia 1949
There were around 740 exhibitors at Pitti 108 and, this being Italy, many of them were Italian.
That means there is plenty of quality to be found, and one of the best things about the week is discovering something great which is completely new to you.
Briglia 1949 displayed a range of trousers cut from a Loro Piana cloth featuring a blend of wool, silk and linen – perfect for the milder English summer, if not for the full heat of the Med.
They boast a stretch waistband, to add comfort even at the end of a long, indulgent summer dinner, paired with a wider leg, and while the brand might not be a household name here (yet), it is available at Mayfair independent menswear boutique Richard Gelding.
Richard Gelding's owner Mike Hughes explains, “Briglia is known for making a huge range of trousers and chinos, and these are its top line. Absolutely banging.” You heard it here first.
Best Party/Most Tenuous Excuse for This Writer to Drink Whisky
MAARNY x The Dalmore
You might not think of two NYC-based bespoke tailors and a historic Scotch whisky brand as the most obvious Pitti collab, but here you have it.
The opening night of the festival was all about an epic takeover of the St Regis by Michael Andrews Bespoke and Angel Ramos NY in partnership with The Dalmore.
Both brands took the opportunity to display their skills as both bespoke and ready-to-wear houses, and The Dalmore got to remind us why theirs is one of the best whiskies in the world.
The Italians may have sneered a little at those of us replacing a spritz with a straight dram, but their loss was my gain as the sublime 18 year old flowed freely.
There can be no better way to kick off a week than by mixing fine tailoring with excellent scotch.
