The early days of the British railway hotel must have been a fantastic time to travel. Comfortable carriages – a far cry from the LNER of today, closer to the luxury train journeys which are currently enjoying a renaissance – swept well-heeled holidaymakers from city to city across the UK, with the best hotels in each usually built just atop the station.
Edinburgh was no different, a majestic edifice rising directly out of Waverley station to house guests – and now known as The Balmoral.
The always-early clock tower (kept a few minutes ahead of time to encourage folk to catch their trains) at the summit of the building has since become one of the most famous fixtures of the skyline.
The property is now owned and operated by celebrated hotelier Sir Rocco Forte, under his eponymous brand, with the aim of bringing world-class luxury accommodation to Scotland’s capital. It succeeds.
Why Stay Here?
Edinburgh has so many compelling reasons to visit that many Londoners make the trip up regularly – for business or pleasure. The Balmoral is ideal for both. The hotel is found right on the border of the Old and New Towns, walking distance from the Castle and Royal Mile and just a tram ride from the trendy bars and restaurants of Leith. Waverley Station really is just underneath if you’ve come from King’s Cross; the tram from the airport stops a few steps away in St Andrew’s Square if you flew up. It really couldn’t be better located.
Of particular note is the brand-new Irene Forte Spa on the lower ground floor. The lap pool is vast, the gym is very well-equipped, the treatments are extremely refreshing (I have, in the course of this job, accidentally gone from cynic to connoisseur of spa facial treatments), and even the pool-side lunches are tasty. Locals can take one-off bookings or yearly memberships, and it’s a space the city has been crying out for.
How’s the Food and drink?
Flagship restaurant Number One serves elegant, contemporary Scottish cuisine. There’s nothing deep-fried or clichéd in sight, instead there’s a firm and lengthy reminder of what Scotland’s larder – and chefs; Mathew Sherry is an Edinburgh-born lad – can really produce.
Breakfast at Brasserie Prince is a clever mix of buffet and à la carte: you can order your Full Scottish to come as described, or you can just head up and load your plate with as much haggis as you like and ignore the rest. Combining both venues means you can book-end your day with Scottish classics.
Before dinner, there’s a nifty cocktail menu to enjoy in Bar Prince, as it expertly ushers you from day to evening. And after dinner, one really must head to SCOTCH to marvel at the 500-plus whisky bottles in its collection. It’s easy to be overwhelmed with such a choice but the team know the shelves backwards, so I just gave them an idea of the flavour profile I was after (peated whisky aged in red-wine casks, if you’re wondering) and chose from their recommendations. The Ledaig 18-year-old they suggested was a new one to me, but one which will now be on regular rotation.
What are the rooms like?
In a word, big. Even the entry-level rooms have more space than would usually be found in a city hotel, but if you feel like treating yourself to a suite the extra expense really pays off.
Views of the Castle, Princes Street Gardens, and even north across the glass roof of the railway station give an excellent aspect of a gorgeous city, and some of the living rooms even retain their working fireplaces. If you manage to control yourself in the bar, one more dram in front of your in-room fire is a reassuringly indulgent way to finish off an evening.
Whichever you choose, expect tasteful design (again, no over-reliance on tired Scottish clichés), enormously comfortable beds, and sumptuous marble baths to relax in. Edinburgh is a city which can really punish your legs, all steep hills and slippery cobbles, so that last one is a true gem.
There’s high demand for luxury hotels in Edinburgh, so competition is fierce. It’s heartening to know that the most famous of them all still maintains an exceptionally high standard.
See more at roccofortehotels.com
