The allure of the Côte d'Azur is strong. Millions of people from the UK alone flock there each year, drawn by the legends of glitz and glamour which have floated back on the sea breeze over the years.
The most iconic imagery may come from the 1960s and 1970s but it has lost none of its appeal today, and is still the top choice of many luxury travellers.
Whether you go there for the first time or the hundredth, you will discover an eclectic region of beach clubs and secluded walks, high-end dining and low-cost locally caught seafood, pristine beaches and rolling hills.
The Cote d’Azur has something for everyone, and these are the best hotels to stay at while you visit.
The Best Hotels in Nice
Hotel du Couvent
The sprawling, ancient convent which this hotel once was lay derelict at the heart of Nice’s Old Town for years. The work done to restore, reimagine, and respect the ancient bones of the is nothing short of magnificent. Smooth plasterwork in the rooms and suites contrasts the rough stone of original features left untouched in the corridors.
A tiered garden climbs the hill on one side of the main square in the centre - home to a farmers’ market on the last Sunday of every month - and provides many of the herbs and botanicals to the restaurant, bar, and bakery, while also playing host to a secluded pool and rows of scented flora to stroll through. Mornings begin with the smell of your breakfast bread and pastry drifting through the corridors from that bakery.
Rooms are all exquisitely decorated, somehow retaining the spartan nature of a nun’s quarters but blending it with cosseting luxury; the minibars stocked with lemons from the hotel farm to add to your cocktails bring hedonism to counter the austerity of the hotel’s former life. A gastronomic restaurant provides glamour for dinner, but the hotel’s own bistrot lies just outside and a little Guingette is tucked up on the garden terrace for when something more casual is in order. Fittingly, this is a heavenly place to stay.
Le Negresco
There are few sights in Nice more iconic than the pink dome of Le Negresco. This has been the grand hotel of the city for more than 100 years, and while that heritage is still borne out in the aesthetic of the property, there’s also more modernity inside than it might appear at first glance.
The whole hotel is a private art gallery of more than 6,000 pieces carefully collected by Jeanne Augier, the former owner, with works from the 17th century to the 21st. Floors are dedicated to different eras in history, so one may feel Regency while another seems akin to a modern-day chic Parisian apartment, with those at the front of the building offering the sea views.
The signature penthouse, converted from once being Mme Augier’s private apartment, boasts the best of them all, coming within touching distance of that dome and sweeping all across the Baie de Anges. In the summer the section of beach across the street becomes a private seaside lounge and restaurant for guests, but for the rest of the year you will be well taken care of within the astonishing, all-original wood panels of Le Bar 1913 or by the team at Michelin-starred flagship restaurant Le Chantecler.
Anantara Plaza
The building housing the Anantara Plaza has actually been there longer than Le Negresco, but the hotel now inside it is brand new and improved.
The most striking feature is the astonishing panorama of the city from the rooftop bar and Restaurant, SEEN by Olivier, whose take on north Mediterranean classics and propensity for roving jazz quartets to serenade diners is a big draw in itself, but it’s not just what you can look at outside which gives reason to stay here.
Rooms are cosy but use space extremely well, polished woods in dark, rich tones and sumptuous soft furnishings in browns and dark purple contrasting the golden blaze of the city outside; the spa below blends the Asian heritage and expertise of Anantara with local icons by using hot pebbles from the beach for its signature treatment.
The Best Hotels in Monaco
Hôtel de Paris
On the western side of Place du Casino, just facing the legendary Casino itself, is the Hôtel de Paris, the iconic jewel in the crown of the state-owned Société des Bains de Mer estate. A spectacular marble lobby awaits you just behind the period revolving doors, and leads on to a bar with casino views, the legendary 3 Michelin star Alain Ducasse restaurant Le Louis XV and through to the magnificent rooms and suites.
Le Grill, the top-floor restaurant, greets diners with sweeping panoramic views and the scent of lamb being freshly roasted with thyme and has been awarded its own Michelin star as a result; an underground passageway (marble-clad, naturally) leads under the F1 track to the adjoining,and enormous, spa and gym so you can work off all that meat.
The central courtyard has been re-imagined as a hub for the city, rather than just a space for hotel guests, and now serves as both thoroughfare to the shopping in the new One Monte-Carlo district and home to Cedric Grolet, the global mega-star of the pâtisserie world. Delicious.
www.montecarlosbm.com; read the full review here.
Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo
Turning into the driveway of Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo is like entering a Renaissance palace, all columns and sculptures and cypress trees. The interior is far more contemporary.
Designer Jacques Garcia has been entrusted with the rooms and suites, using light and soft tones of yellow and blue to create spaces which lift the spirits upon entering, while the spa complex by Guerlain shimmers in crisp white and radiant gold. Guests flock here for the dining at Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac - awarded 2 Michelin stars just a few months after opening, and worth visiting for the bread trolley alone - and the evening spirits and cigars in the adjoining wood-panneled bar, but equally to wile away afternoons at Odyssey, the Karl Lagerfeld-designed pool.
Hottest ticket is for the Grand Prix, though: the terrace of that restaurant and bar overlooks the downhill sweep from Casino Square.
www.metropole.com; read the full review here.
Hôtel Hermitage
It may seem more diminutive from the outside than its sibling across the street, but Hôtel Hermitage is a deceptive marvel.
The grand Belle Epoque salon which greets you as you cross the door, and doubles as a fine place to enjoy a coffee in itself, soon gives way to corridors which wind and stretch and turn again to connect you to a whole range of hidden delights.
Somehow there are three restaurants - Japanese fine dining from L’ Abysse is not to be missed, well worthy of 2 of chef Yannick Alleno’s 18 Michelin stars - tucked away here, there’s a terrace with views across the harbour to the Prince’s Palace, and a secret passage to Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo, the spa and fitness club under the SBM umbrella.
Rooms are a fresh mix of citrus and pastel colours, filled with sunshine and as opulent as you would expect.
Maybourne Riviera
This pristine white and icy blue edifice, perched high on the cliffs above Monaco, gleams in the sunshine and provides views over the ocean and down into the Principality which simply cannot be matched.
While technically not actually in Monaco, the views across the Monte-Carlo Country Club and the eastern frontier of the city state are a large part of the draw. Consummate luxury is found in every corner, from the suites to the cigar terrace, and the serenity of the place is peerless.
Breathtaking contemporary design features, like a pool which seems hewn from the cliff and some gorgeous bathrooms in the signature suites, elevate the property to the standard one expects of the Maybourne group.
Three floors of wellness at Surrenne Riviera, the first expansion of the group’s spa philosophy outside of London, present fitness both indoors and out. A truly stunning place to be.
Monte-Carlo Beach
Again, technically just over the border into France, but this one also forms part of the SBM estate. The vibe here is far more casual than the other properties in the same stable, with much of the footprint dedicated to the kind of ocean-side revelry for which the Riviera is renowned.
Most of the restaurants are seasonal, aiming to cater as much for those who float past on their boats (or superyacht tenders) as those staying in-house, and a stream of pop-ups from fashion houses like Jacquemus add to the linen-and-deck-shoes summer party vibe. Rooms are light and airy with a very nautical feel, bright whites and cool blues matching the beach location perfectly.
If you’re looking for a different take on Monaco than the usual baroque, this is for you - transfers to the other hotels and restaurants are included, but you get to spend as much time by the beach as you like. Bliss.
The Best Hotels in Saint-Tropez
Hôtel Byblos, Saint Tropez
Few icons of the Riviera’s ‘Golden Age’ are as beloved as Saint-Tropez’s Hôtel Byblos.
Constant evolution since its heyday in the 1960s has been the key to the staying power, along with the legendary on-site nightclub which still attracts the superyacht crowd up from the harbour, and the owners have a keen eye for a partnership to keep the place relevant.
London favourites Zuma provide al-fresco sushi throughout the summer, Sisley Paris have created a glorious spa to help detox after nights in the club, and doyenne of luxury hotel design Laura Gonzalez has dressed rooms in a comforting blend of Tropezian colour and Parisian chic.
Crowning the property is a magnificent Sky Bar with views across the town down to the bay. This is a place for true Saint-Tropez devotees, the classic and original party hotel for the summer season. As full of life as it is history.
www.byblos.com. Read the full review here.
Pan Deï Palais
A true boutique stay here, with only 12 keys across the whole property. The mansion was originally built as a gift from a French built to woo an Indian princess; nods to that heritage are found everywhere from the menus to the furnishings.
Wicker and wood and a kaleidoscope of Indian period art dress the rooms and suites, and bright white linens are offset by riotously colourful rugs on the polished wooden floors. The influence extends outside: carved wooden daybeds in a distinctly eastern style surround the mosaiced central pool, where lazy lounging gives way to rowdy Tropezian parties, featuring DJs and live bands, by night.
If the excitement of the evening gets a little too much there’s a small-but-perfectly-formed spa downstairs to help you recover. Dining from dawn til dusk takes place in the courtyard, where fresh naan arrives alongside locally-caught and grilled seabass to complete the tribute to the marriage which created the property.
AREV Saint-Tropez
AREV is a rarity in Saint-Tropez in that it’s an all-year hotel.
There’s a strong nautical vibe to the décor which greets guests as they arrive, and a laid-back approach to check-in which sees no space wasted on reception desks and lobbies and rather a friendly team of hosts who will welcome you over champagne at the bar and process your arrival while you sip. A quick WhatsApp at any time of the day or night will take care of any future requests, whether you’re by the pool or in your room when you make them.
That pool is the heart of the property, warmed year-round (AREV is one of only a few hotels which opens all year, meaning you can experience Saint-Tropez in its wonderfully sleepy winter guise) and the perfect spot for one of their signature Cucumber Gimlets.
Dining takes place either under the stars in a gorgeous ‘town square’ just round from the pool or back in the yacht-themed interior when the temperature dips; wherever you sit, the range of simple Tropezian classics like grilled sole and seabass or a delicious seafood pasta will keep you satisfied. A great way to experience both versions of a beautiful town.
COMO Le Beauvallon
Possibly the biggest draw of this Saint-Tropez property is that it’s not really in Saint-Tropez.
Instead, you will have an unbeatable view across the bay to the harbour and town centre, and a private boat transfer which will have you floating up to the marina like James Bond in a mere 8 minutes. Far better than slogging through the notorious traffic on the coast road like everyone else.
When not taking advantage of the delights of the village itself, you’ll have a 10 acres of greenery in which to unwind, as well as a gigantic pool and a private beach club which is actually on the property, not accessed via transfer.
The legendary Yannick Alléno helms the restaurant, serving a range of sushi and dim sum to reflect the brand’s Asian heritage alongside the classic grilled Riviera seafood, and there’s also a rooftop lounge bar from which to watch the sunset. Heavenly.
Château de La Messardière
In the hills above the bay lies a sprawling 13 hectare parkland, thick with pine and cypress, which is home to a sprawling pleasure palace first built in the 19th century. Today it boasts 86 rooms and suites to accommodate those looking for a little bit, but not too much, distance from the party scene of Saint-Tropez itself.
By grace of the location everything about this property is big: entry level rooms are the size of city hotels’ suites; the spa - which features indoor and outdoor gyms, regenerative treatments from Provençal brand Laboratoires Botanique Avancée, tennis, padel, and even an in-house chiropractor - is larger than some city hotels in their entirety.
5 pools, 6 restaurants (including the beach club, accessible through regular complimentary transfers) and 3 bars will keep you fed and watered on-site, with Cedric Grolet’s spectacular pastries providing the sweet treats, Nobu Matsuhisa bringing his signature Japanese/Peruvian crossover, and Palladio and Voltaire ensuring Mediterranean classics are not overlooked. If all that isn’t enough, the house Rolls-Royce will glide you down the hill into town whenever you like.
Accommodation stretches all the way from those generous rooms to stand-alone 4-bedroom villas for those who need extra privacy or space for the family. All that considered, it’s no surprise Château de La Messardière was chosen as the main location for season four of The White Lotus.
The Best Hotels in Cannes
Hôtel Martinez, Cannes
The sparkling white exterior of the Hôtel Martinez will be familiar to anyone who has walked La Croisette even once.
This is the home of movie stars by the score, flooding in during the Cannes Film Festival to fight it out for the best suites or, even better, one of the lavish penthouse apartments. The blazing white of the façade is replicated in the rooms and suites, giving each a feeling of even more space and light than already available.
The Martinez Bar is one of the hottest spots in town to be seen every evening; in the daytime lounging on the hotel’s private beach, La Plage du Martinez, is the ultimate flex. This is the place for visitors to Cannes who are here to grasp some of the movie magic for which the town is so well-known. Genuinely iconic.
Mondrian Cannes
The footprint of Mondrian Cannes stretches from the seaside dining at Hyde Beach, across the lush green lawn at the front of the building and into a chic 11 storeys of contemporary elegance. Rooms in cool pastel greens and blues give respite from the searing heat of the summer outside.
Fresh sushi from Mr Nakamoto appears under parasols on that lawn to satisfy your appetite. This hotel feels like a bit of a disruptor, with a much younger vibe than many others nearby, and that’s to be welcomed.
The garden space is a rare treasure in Cannes, to be taken full advantage of whenever you’re here, and if you snag a Panoramic Terrace room the views from your outdoor jacuzzi are insane, but above all you should come here for a more modern take on the Riviera than many of the classic hotels. Refreshing.
The Best Hotels in Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Toile Blanche
There’s a peace to this place unlike the others nearby. Toile Blanche is the dream of The Leroy Brothers, an artist collective of actual brothers from Belgium, and has the feel of it from the moment you enter.
There’s a casualness to the welcome which tells you immediately this is home; the texture of the cooling plaster walls across the rooms and suites is as considered as the colour. Everything is tactile, from the bedside table to the exposed hewn stone around the suite doors, and the communal sentiment of the dining and pool areas is wonderfully bohemian.
In-room bars are far from mini, only full-size bottles of the local wines are available, which is possibly the most “artist” touch to the whole place, but the sculptures and paintings around the gardens and in the shoppable gallery next to the reception are more of a sign that this is a creative space. In certain months off-season (they open year-round, unlike most of the others around here) you may find yourself living alongside an artist offered residence in return for another work to dress the estate.
Summer is when the place is at its most alive though and long lunches at La Guingette, with its open grill in the middle of the garden, can easily flow straight into dinner at Le Restaurant, or even just in the same place. A place to embrace the side of you which adores relaxed decadence.
Domaine du Mas de Pierre
This old farm sprawls down a hillside coated in lavender and jasmine, and the whole place smells amazing.
Rooms are spread throughout a collection of bastides; many gardens so private you could forget there are other rooms around while others boast balconies which offer views down the mountain to the sea. Families are particularly well catered for, with a lagoon area at the bottom of the hill which is great for smaller swimmers and a nature trail throughout the grounds for them to explore, but couples will get as much benefit from a stay thanks to the adults-only Bastide des Fleurs with its own pool.
Dine by those pools or at the main restaurant, La Table de Pierre, which holds one Michelin star and serves exquisite local gastronomy. Most visitors to Vence are looking to spend some time browsing the legendary art galleries in the medieval centre; if you are one of them there’s a convertible Rolls-Royce waiting in the garage to whisk you up there. Walk back down in time to take a cocktail making class in the fragrant herb garden, then work out why you didn’t book a little bit longer.
Château Saint-Martin & Spa
The location of Château Saint-Martin & Spa is so desirable that it has been home to a country retreat for almost 900 years.
What was once a Knights-Templar castle is now an extensive luxury playground for the discerning, with lavish suites in pastel pinks and greens overlooking the manicured gardens of the estate. Private villas are separated from the main property by a terrace of olive trees and benefit from views across the estate.
Two restaurants, L’Oliveraie presenting grilled fish and meat under the shade of the olive trees and Le Saint-Martin serving fine Mediterranean staples, are notable for their glorious simplicity, letting the beauty of the produce shine through without relying too much on gimmicks.
The dining here is also key to the hotel’s wellness focus, with as much emphasis placed on eating fresh and well as on the physical activities like tennis and padel which complement the indulgent recovery of the expansive spa. Breathe in the mountain air and recover from real life for a while.
The Best Côte d’Azur Countryside Retreats
Lily of the Valley
While most of the Côte d’Azur focuses on decadence, wellness is the constant aim at Lily of the Valley.
The approach is through winding mountain roads and the address within a gated community so a sense of exclusivity and privacy is palpable before you’ve even really arrived, but the welcome when you do is nothing less than superbly warm. Walking from reception to the terrace of Vista restaurant is simply breathtaking, such is the majesty of the view.
From that moment on, feel only peace. All menus are specifically designed to enhance health and wellbeing (though staff are happy to help you be naughty if you want) and the hotel has a vast array of classes, treatments, and programmes - between 4 and 14 days long - to help you achieve your fitness goals.
The entire place was designed by Philippe Starck and his use of bare stone in the spa, polished wood in the rooms, suites, and villas, and creation of a curated grotto of plant life around the estate all adds to the recovery experience. Back down the hill to the beach, 8 pool suites opposite the hotel’s beach club cater for those who just want to dip their toe into serene recovery while maintaining a connection to outside life and a bit of a party atmosphere. A truly exceptional place.
Terre Blanche
The best way to understand the scale of Terre Blanche is to compare it to a neighbour – the estate is bigger than Monaco.
This is one for the outdoorsy: Golf lovers have not one, but 2 European Tour courses to play on, as well as a state-of-the-art golf academy and driving range; there’s hiking, tennis, or swimming in the heated pool elsewhere on the property; or why not grab a bike and cycle out to one of the medieval towns littering the surrounding hillsides for a change of scenery?
Four restaurants offer a wide variety of cuisine and levels of formality – though all are family-friendly – with main restaurant Faventia holding one Michelin star. Rooms are laid out as small villas in a little village directly behind the main hotel building, and if you don’t feel like walking to dinner one evening either have it brought to your terrace or call for a golf buggy to whisk you up the hill. This isn’t just a hotel, it’s your own Provençal estate.
www.terreblanche.com; read the full review here.
Hôtel du Cap Eden-Roc
Some of the most enduring images from the golden age of the Riviera are those taken by Slim Aarons at Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc. The famous pool, dug into the rock just above the sea, still provides impeccable Instagram moments, but is far from all this magnificent property has to offer.
Four restaurants and an ice-cream parlour will keep you fed; five bars, scattered across the breadth of the hotel, will ensure the champagne and cocktails don’t run out. Tennis courts and laps of that pool will help you burn off the calories the next morning. The Dior Spa Eden Roc offers treatments both indoors and in outdoor gazebos with the sounds and scents of the surrounding nature as your backdrop.
Rooms are spread across three distinct areas, each with their own aesthetic and style, but for the true experience choose a suite with sea view in the original, iconic building, then head down to the equally-recognisable pool and await your photographer.
Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat
If you land at Nice airport from the east, Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat is clearly visible on your descent, its pristine white walls shining out from the deep green forest like the beacon of luxury they are.
The main building is imposing, as is the path which sweeps through the immaculate lawn to lead you to the beach club, Club Dauphin (accessed via funicular hewn into the cliff), but then everything about this property feels monumental.
Dining at Le Cap, with summer tables under the umbrella pines on the terrace, is a light and airy experience, and walking the seaside path from the beach into the village of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat feels like a Riviera dream from old Hollywood. There’s plenty of activity as well as indulgence within the grounds, including yoga under the trees and a fitness centre with views of only the ocean, as well as clay tennis courts and, of course, a spa.
www.fourseasons.com. Read the full review here.
