Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve been obsessed with castles. Not because I have dreams of being a princess – no, my fascination lies in moats and portcullises; epic battles and even more epic banquets. And above all, turrets.
So when I discovered that I would be staying in Château Autignac, in the quaint eponymous French village, where many of the suites have turrets, I was, quite frankly, pumped. But these turrets, with window seats offering views over the gravel driveway, wrought-iron gates, and village buildings beyond, turned out to be only the start of the Château’s selling points.
Château Autignac is not the “epic battle” kind of castle, but a vineyard Château, its fairytale-castle-like structure built in the 19th century by a wine-making family as the main seat of their business.
Today, wine remains one of the hotel’s main lures, and is one of the reasons to visit Autignac. Quiet and sleepy, the village’s narrow streets, medieval architecture and church bells make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The area has a long wine-making heritage. Its history is woven into its very fabric, with vine leaves daubed above doorways and wrought into gates.
Wine is an equally common theme at Château Autignac. On the lower floor, you’ll stroll past the spa, a cellar with artfully displayed wooden wine barrels, and the wine-tasting room (soon to be converted into a restaurant that will also be open to non-guests), where you can conveniently sample your way through Domaine des Prés-Lasses’ vintages. The domaine chooses to keep its wines close, only exporting approximately 10% of some 80,000 bottles per year, which means this is among the few places to try its 12 cuvées.
A tasting reveals the copper-coloured rosé pétillant, bottle fermented on the lees, has notes of apple and a champagne-style dryness, with lovely silky carbonation, while the Chemin de Ronde, a blend of mourvèdre, grenache, syrah, and carignan grapes, is rich in black fruits and cocoa. Guests can also visit the vineyards — just don’t do like I did and visit during harvest time in September, when Boris, the head winemaker, and his team are busy gathering the grapes.
It’s Boris who tells me the region’s wine-making talent comes thanks to soil filled with nutrient-poor schist stone, which means the vines have to grow deeper into the ground, resulting in wines brimming with minerality. Château Autignac pays homage to this extraordinary stone in the minimalist modern terrace, pool, and sun loungers, where schist-hued accents accentuate the property’s whimsical architecture.
You’ll get a glorious eyeful of both the Château and the idyllic pool area (complete with bubbling hot tub) when you adjourn to the terrace for breakfast. Given there’s no full restaurant right now, the offering is simple yet mighty, and the jewel in its crown? Your own personal loaf of sourdough brioche, baked by a local woman who only works with a select number of local businesses.
Golden, buttery, airy: this little loaf, with its characteristic mushroom silhouette (although I like to think of it as having lovehandles), is worthy of a whole article in and of itself. The baker also supplies an equally good loaf of sourdough, and you’re given a selection of jams to daub on top: peach and shiso leaf, and pear and ginger.
After breakfast, you might want to drive (your own car is a must) about 25 minutes to the nearby city of Béziers – or you could choose to walk the 20 metres to the spa, where you’ll find a tiny sauna, a large hot tub, and plenty of lounging space.
Whether you choose to venture further afield or do as I did, and choose to make full use of the hotel’s generous spa amenities (it’s part of the job, of course), there will eventually come a point in the day where you’ll inevitably be drawn to the siren call of the honesty bar and lounge area where comfy chairs linger invitingly near the fireplace, and books and games line the shelves.
It epitomises the idea that visitors to the Château should feel like it’s a home-from-home, able to serve themselves and treat the space as if it’s their own. The staff, too, are attentive yet discreet. Many of the Domaine des Prés-Lasses vintages are at your fingertips in the various fridges. There’s coffee and snacks, too, but who are we kidding? You’re not here for those.
After several glasses of wine, you’ll be guided upstairs by a bronze shepherd mounted on a column at the bottom of the stairs. He holds aloft a little lantern that lights up, casting just enough glow to see you to your room, and a glorious night’s sleep under a duvet so cushy and dense it might as well be a weighted blanket.
Whether you’re after wine or village life, Château Autignac offers a taste of rural France. If you’re looking for a place to trade bustle for beauty, you’ve found it.
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From €200 per room per night; châteauautignac.fr
