I’m in a large inflatable raft, paddle in hand, thrashing down the class III rapids of the Shoshone section of the Colorado River in the crevice of Glenwood Canyon, deep in the Rocky Mountains. There are ten of us on board, including my boyfriend Les, following instructions from our guide, Griffin, while keeping our eyes peeled for the eagles which live here.
If I were an eagle, I’d choose to make this place home, too. The vivid greens of the trees and vegetation are stark against the red walls of the canyon, rising dramatically above the scenic river into the bright, blue sky. Red-tailed hawks and huge buzzards swoop overhead, and sunshine blazes down, making the regular river soakings appealing. Indeed, when we reach Grizzly Creek, the waters calm and most of us abandon ship for a cooling swim. We clamber back on board and float down Two Rivers marvelling at the geological marvels all around, eventually winding up in the heart of historic gold mining town Glenwood Springs.
Although I have visited this area numerous times for winter sports, I’ve never been in the summer. Now that we are here, I’m wondering why it’s taken me so long – because it’s utterly glorious in every direction. When I mention this to Griffin, he laughs: “I came for the winter and stayed for the summer,” he says. “Like pretty much everyone else you’ll meet.”
This rafting experience with Sage Outdoor Adventures near Vail is a few days into an epic adventure through the Rockies that began with two nights in Denver, the state capital. Also known as the Mile High City, thanks to its elevation of exactly 5,280ft above sea level. It enjoys 300 days of sunshine per year, is packed with great things to do, see and eat, and the vibes are deliciously chilled.
Halcyon, a hotel in chic Cherry Creek, about a 40-minute drive from the airport, is the perfect bolthole. It’s urban and sophisticated but also low-key and relaxed. There’s a pool on the roof, a gear garage with rentable bikes and the friendly front desk receptionists dish out barista-quality free coffees whenever you want one.
Vail village
Cherry Creek is a lovely place for a mooch, stuffed as it is with fashion boutiques, galleries, cafes and cool shops. There are also heaps of renowned restaurants, but the one I was most excited about was Alteno in the Clayton Hotel. It’s led by Michelin-starred Johnny Curiel, who grew up in Guadalajara and is famed for his contemporary Mexican cooking. Highlights include sliced raw tuna with green apple swimming in a zingy broth, jalapeño corn bread drenched in huitlacoche butter, and exquisite gringa al pastor.
For our next adventure, we head to Beaver Creek. It’s a breath-taking two-hour drive along the I-70 through picturesque valleys, steep mountain passes, dense forests and alpine meadows. We pass rivers, waterfalls and lakes and the sublime scenery gets more magnificent the deeper into the Rockies we go. A sign at Beaver Creek resort’s entrance warns that ‘bears live in this area’, urging humans not to approach, feed or crowd them. It’s beyond exciting. It’s also beyond exciting to arrive at Beaver Creek Stables for an early evening horse ride up the mountain to dinner and learn that we might see bears in the national forest along the way.
Sitting high atop piebald gelding Rocky, left hand resting on the pommel of a comfortable Western saddle, right hand loosely clutching the reins, we’re living out some serious Yellowstone fantasies. Our real-life cowboy guide points out long vertical scratches on the trunks of the aspen trees we’re lolloping past, explaining that these are claw marks from bears, who scratch to scent and territory mark. We don’t see any bears, sadly, but there are chipmunks, as well as striking turquoise Mountain Bluebirds, and riding is a perfect way to experience this rugged terrain.
We arrive at Beano’s Cabin a couple of hours later, dismount our trusty steeds and leave them to the cowboys. What a ride. I have visited this luxurious log cabin before, in deepest winter when it’s banked in snow and warmed with massive log fires and lit by antler chandeliers, everything twinkling in the lights of endless candles. In summer, the wild flowers in the mountain meadow provide pops of colour against the greens and browns of the grasses and towering spruce. A pair of deer skip along, blissfully unaware of diners watching through the window. Uniformed waiters dish up local game and rustic Colorado fare in all seasons, making for a memorable dining experience whatever the weather.
The cycling is a treat
Les is a mad-keen cyclist who was more excited about riding these mountain roads than anything else. Kitted out with a Pinarello Dogma by Venture Sports, he set out on an 80km loop with 1,200m of elevation, from Beaver to Eagle and back. He raved about the smooth tarmac along the Gerald R Ford memorial highway and dedicated cycleways following the river. His ride started at 2,400m and climbed steadily to 2,800m. On paper these gradients didn’t look intimidating; in reality the thin air reminded him who was boss. The oxygen canisters for sale everywhere suddenly made sense and his body soon adapted. The descents were everything Les imagined: fast, flowing and so exhilarating he buzzed for the rest of the day.
All that exercise demanded a serious dinner, so we used the Village Connect app to book one of Beaver Creek’s free door-to-door, on-demand shuttles to The Ritz-Carlton down the road at Bachelor Gulch. We adored Wyld, a laid-back luxe restaurant within, serving rustic yet refined American dishes such as duck carnitas with salsa verde and black truffle mac’n’cheese.
Vail, one of North America’s most iconic ski resorts, is an extremely scenic 15-minute drive from Beaver. It’s like Disneyland for grown-ups in the winter, and I’m delighted to report that the feeling persists in the summer. Indeed, it’s particularly intense when checking into The Arrabelle at Vail Square in Lionshead Village, a glitzy Bavarian-inspired grand ski lodge at the base of the Eagle Bahn Gondola. The people-watching opportunities here are excellent.
Mountain biking is huge in Vail in the summer, with most ski runs turned into miles of bike trails for all skill levels. Downhill junkies can ride the gondolas up and speed down all manner of thrilling terrain. Les swore off mountain biking two decades earlier for fear of his own mortality but couldn’t come to Vail and not give it a go. He rented a bike and helmet from one of the many equipment shops and we headed up the mountain on the Eagle Bahn. I joined a guided nature walk and marvelled at the alpine flowers while he thrashed down a few times. When we reunited at the lift station a couple of hours later he had the biggest grin on his face.
The Vail hills
Forty-five minutes from Vail is Breckenridge, another famous ski resort, with heaps of fun summer activities on offer. Our favourite was fly-fishing with Bill from Breckenridge Outfitters, the best fishing shop around, whose office is at the bottom of the quintessentially American Main Street. Bill has a pleasing whiff of Hunter S Thompson about him in a Hawaiian shirt and baseball cap – and has endless stories to match.
We book a two-hour ‘Walk & Wade’ experience and after a quick lesson in how to hold the rod and what to do with it, we’re clad in thick boots and waders, standing thigh-deep in a gently rushing section of beautiful Blue River.
Sunshine belts down as Bill tells us he also came for the winter and stayed for the summer. Both of us catch a trout – feeling that tug on the end of the line and reeling them in is dead exciting. Mine is brown and Les’s rainbow – brown is best, says Bill, as we release them back into the water. To celebrate such sporting success at the end of the most action-packed, mind-expanding trip, we visit Breckenridge Distillery, the world’s highest and an icon of American whiskey. Its Breckenridge Bourbon is one of the most highly awarded craft bourbons in the USA, and Les thoroughly enjoyed tasting his way through that one (and the rest).
The best time to visit Colorado and experience this extreme summer joy is from mid-June until the end of September. Around the end of October is when ski season begins and the lush green and red landscape turns frosty white until mid-April when the big thaw begins again. This year there’s a jazzy new resort on the block, Keystone, located in Summit County only a twenty-minute drive from Breckenridge and ninety from Denver airport, which is going to be popular. This mountain life is so good for the soul we wish we could join Griff, Bill and all the rest in staying for the rest of the summer. What a heavenly place.
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