There are a few things we have in abundance in Scotland. Distilleries, golf courses, mountains, lochs… all clichéd symbols of our nation, and all attract visitors in droves. We also have castles. More than a thousand remain, which for an area this small is pretty substantial, out of an estimated one-time total exceeding 3,000.
Many of them are crumbling; mere shadows of their former selves, useful only as dramatic backdrop for photography or playground for local children. Some, however, have been rescued.
Crossbasket Castle lies about 20 minutes’ drive from where I grew up, and I confess that until recently I had no idea of its existence. Its recent history saw it rescued from dereliction by a successful local couple, painstakingly renovated and restored, and given new life as a high-end hospitality venue.
Such was the success that the original nine bedrooms in the ancient castle building itself was quickly far from sufficient, so ground was broken on a brand-new sister property within the estate and just a one-minute walk across the lawn from the main castle. Trocadero’s boasts 40 bedrooms and suites, two restaurants overseen by Michel Roux Jr, and an outdoor terrace.
Why Stay Here?
Nick Hendry
Nick Hendry
Until now, the draw of Crossbasket had been mostly weddings and corporate retreats. A large extension was built to the original castle during the first phase of restoration, creating a venue for ceremonies and receptions and dinners and events alongside the afternoon teas and period décor of the rooms.
It’s still an excellent option for these things – the view onto the burn (that’s a small river) from the event space is particularly beautiful and the service in this section is extremely slick – but the addition of the extra accommodation now makes the estate a viable choice for more casual visits to the area.
Glasgow city centre is a short drive away, so prolonged stays need not be reliant on the on-site attractions and can easily access the delights of the town, but the setting is remote enough to offer seclusion and tranquillity to those who seek it.
The contrasting styles between the two buildings also helps cater to a wider range of tastes. The signature suite, The Lindsay Tower (rooms in the castle are named for previous custodians), is extraordinary: four floors in the oldest part of the estate, a tower originally built in the 1600s, with a private entrance, enormous four-poster bed, and an entire level dedicated to a spacious, light-filled bathroom.
Other rooms throughout the period part of the complex are decorated in the style often found in such places – silk wallpapers; vintage furniture; many, many paintings – and the public rooms used for afternoon teas, as well as the extremely cosy bar, retain the grandeur they would have once had when this was a private mansion.
Across at Trocadero’s, the difference could not be more pronounced. The styling is based on Parisian art deco nightspots from the 1920s and 30s, but is executed more as a contemporary tribute than a stylised recreation. Finish is to the highest standard, with sumptuous velvets and crisp marble everywhere, and even the entry-level rooms are extremely spacious and comfortable.
How’s The Food?
Days at Crossbasket begin in Foveran’s, with a mix of buffet and a la carte served under an enormous skylight. Allowing the natural light to pour into the room fits perfectly with the relaxed, Riviera-style theme, with the room decked out in mint greens and cool white tones.
The food is a thoughtful balance of healthy and hearty: if you’re trying to be sensible (why here? But OK) there are lighter options; if you fancy indulgence the full Scottish is one of the best I’ve sampled. In the evening cocktails are served here before the main event of dinner at Trocadero’s, but breakfast is when the space really shines.
Lunch can be taken in Foveran’s as well, or you can hold out a little longer for the extravagance of afternoon tea in one of the castle dining rooms. It’s sensible to save space for the evening though, or take advantage of the expansive ground to walk up an appetite, as dinner at Trocadero’s is the defining experience of a stay here.
Upon arrival, the theatre begins. Names are confirmed before a curtain is drawn back with a flourish to reveal the dining room, and the live jazz which will entertain you while you eat. Trocadero’s is another trip back in time, not to the Victorian opulence of the castle but to the decadent jazz cabaret era of Paris in the 1920s, and the design of the restaurant captures that perfectly.
The attention to detail is impressive, with the curve of the mirrors on the walls complementary to the same shape in the chair backs, and every surface feels luxurious. As one would expect of a Michel Roux menu, the food is exemplary. The biggest pork chop I’ve ever encountered was also brilliantly cooked, the wine was wonderfully paired, and the sorbet to finish was crisp, light, and refreshing.
Be aware, when dinner is over, your night isn’t. As the evening gets later the music becomes more lively, and more interactive. Retire from your table to a booth at the upper bar level, order a couple of (excellent) gin martinis, and get ready to dance that dinner off.
What Are The Rooms Like?
Huge, and comfortable. The two buildings mean you can choose your aesthetic; both will satisfy the most demanding fans of the style. Some castle rooms come with gargantuan bay windows overlooking the manicured lawn which will let in huge amounts of sunlight in the morning – plan your hangover in advance, and choose accordingly.
The modern rooms and suites in the new building are sleek and chic, mixing dark woods and bright marble with sumptuous soft furnishings to create supremely relaxing spaces. Large balconies and deep baths add to the sensation of being spoiled even in the base-tier accommodation. After all the champagne at dinner, you may well need some extra time here.
It still amazes me how close Crossbasket Castle is to Glasgow and how few locals I speak to know about it. One of Scotland’s finest luxury hotels is hiding in plain sight just up the road from her biggest city, but it won’t be undiscovered for long. Best get in now before the queues stretch into town.
Trocadero’s rooms from £195; Castle rooms from £360. crossbasketcastle.com
