The north of England can unfairly be overlooked by London’s luxury tourists. For some, the counties of Northumberland and Cumbria can be dismissed as pass-throughs on the way to Scotland. This is more than a little shortsighted, as there is still plenty of natural beauty to discover in England’s most northerly locales.
Maybe, then, their concern has been the lack of luxury hotel accommodation to match the exacting standards they have become used to further south? This need no longer be a concern, thanks to the first-class facilities and exceptional welcome offered by Matfen Hall.
The village of Matfen is located about 30 minutes’ drive to the west of Newcastle city centre. The present Matfen Hall was built in 1832 to replace the original – which the village grew to support – and serve as
a residence of the local Blackett family.
In 1999, the building was repurposed as a hotel, and in 2020 it was acquired by its current custodians, the Walwick Estate Group, with the intention of creating the region’s first five-star estate. Significant renovation and restoration followed, until in June of 2023 that goal was realised as the Hall officially reopened to paying guests.
Arriving at the top of the gravel carriage driveway – as most guests will, although landing a helicopter on the lawn can be arranged if you’re feeling flush – is like taking a step back into the glory days of the English country pile.
The gentle bubbling of a fountain blends with the scents of a lush garden to immediately put the mind at ease and drain away any last remnants of the city stresses you have likely come here to escape. Given the journey from the region’s biggest city is so short – and the train ride to Newcastle Central itself is only three fairly comfortable hours from King’s Cross – the tranquillity really is remarkable.
Remarkable also is the scene which awaits after you cross the door of the hotel. After a warm and easy reception by the hotel team, champagne is served in the aptly named Great Hall.
It’s a room which really has to be seen to be properly appreciated – a vaulted ceiling soars two full storeys above the stone arches which line each side of the room, creating a gigantic space, filled in turn by coloured light pouring through a gargantuan stained-glass window.
Sitting on one of the sumptuous leather sofas or chairs, watching the light play on the swords and stags head which adorn the walls, is a fitting introduction to the finery and grandeur lying ahead.
The main attractions of Matfen Hall are threefold: the food, the spa, and the golf. I have to admit that only the first two of these are really my thing, but even I had to be impressed by the setup in the golf clubhouse.
The main course is found just at the bottom of that lawn where you can park your helicopter, and while I didn’t test it out myself, it did provide a soothing vista for breakfasts and dinners in the main restaurant.
The clubhouse is home to a pro shop and state-of-the-art golf simulator, allowing lessons for members and guests to really dive into the finer points of a swing (or, in my case, to confirm that the swing in question is utterly hopeless) and even for the worst of the weather to be removed as an obstacle to those intent on playing a round.
Famous courses from around the world can be loaded up for groups to play in the event their real-life game is scuppered by the elements, with the mission to digitally map Matfen’s own 27 holes already underway.
Back at the main house, the culinary offering is so impressive you’ll be glad of all that golf / walking to burn off the calories.
Afternoon tea in the Drawing Room is enhanced by Laurent Perrier champagne and chamber music from a talented harpist; classic finger sandwiches are followed by delicate and delightful French pastries which bring a little continental flair to an otherwise traditionally English occasion.
There are two restaurants on-site which offer dinner: fine dining in Emerald or a more relaxed affair in Cloisters.
Emerald is set in a glorious wood-panelled, book-lined room, and serves a seasonal tasting menu with a strong focus on local ingredients. Many herbs and vegetables are sourced from around the estate and the dedicated kitchen garden – including the botanicals for the house gin, 1832 – and the menu changes regularly based on the best produce available.
My own highlights were a particularly tasty Lindisfarne oyster and an exceptional local lamb, but special mention has to be made of a grapefruit ganache which simply amazed with the creativity of its presentation.
Wine pairings are available, to be curated by the sommelier depending on which menu is in season when you visit, while private tastings in the extensive wine cellar are also available.
Cloisters is found in an atrium just off the Great Hall, covered with a glass roof and designed specifically with casually elegant dining in mind. If Emerald is set up for romantic couple evenings and reserved gastronomy, this is the place to come for a more convivial meal with a larger group.
The menu is varied and again showcases local produce – I opted for fresh soup of the day with veg from that garden, followed by an excellent fillet steak.
Again, the show is stolen by fantastic desserts. The chocolate tart, with its 75% dark chocolate and hibiscus caramel, was an indulgent masterpiece.
Of course, meals like that need to be earned if we want to continue to fit into our wardrobes. Luckily, Matfen Hall has one of the largest and best-equipped gyms I’ve ever seen in a hotel – there’s even a heavy bag if you feel like visualising your office nemesis and throwing some hands – which can be used to work off all that chocolate and wine, before finishing up in the impressive spa for some relaxation.
The Retreat takes over the lower section of the house and boasts a 15m naturally lit pool, thermal treatment section with sauna and steam, and a collection of treatment rooms for massage and skin treatments.
A curated range of products from Germaine de Capuccini and Natura Bissé accompany facials and body massages to soothe the soul as they restore the body, and the 60-minute relaxing facial I got really did melt away the pressures of London life.
Matfen Hall has endowed itself with all the amenities that today’s luxury traveller would expect from a five-star hotel, but what sets it apart is its staff. The easy-going, down-to-earth friendliness of the team here felt completely natural and unforced.
There weren’t any requests to make the whole time I was there, as they had already thought of everything, but every interaction I did have with a member of the team felt as comfortable and pleasant as having a chat with a mate in the pub.
It’s a rare skill to be able to make a guest feel truly at home in such a short space of time, but it’s one they have mastered at Matfen. Perhaps it’s something in the Northumberland water – I thoroughly recommend you head up to find out.
Matfen Hall Hotel, Matfen, Newcastle upon Tyne NE20 0RH. For more information, call 01661 886 500 or see matfenhall.com
