The watch list 2015

Since its birth in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava has been the definitive dress watch. Commentators describe it as ‘Bauhaus’ because of its minimalism and functionality; it is simply a paradigm of taste and discretion. Over the years, the Calatrava has been offered in various precious metals (vintage steel versions are worth more than the gold), with assorted bezels or dials, with or without the bling of gem enhancements and various diameters.

Just as a Rolex is a default purchase for ruggedness allied to functionality, so is Patek Philippe’s Calatrava the final word in dress watches that won’t be subjected to drunken tumbles into swimming pools.

For more info, visit patek.com

Manufacture is the way the industry describes companies that make their own in-house movements – the ‘badge of courage’ in the watch world. It’s complete bullshit, of course, as the greatest watches in history – the Rolex ‘Paul Newman’, the Omega Speedmaster Professional, etc – used movements from outside suppliers, but today, it’s no in-house movement, no cred.

Oris, once a manufacturer of movements on a HUGE scale, has revived its skill set to produce an all-new movement called the Calibre 111, foreshadowed by the recent Cal 110 limited edition. This is an affordable slice of genuine watch prestige in a handsome, classic form that will ensure your watch-lovin’ buddies show respect.

For more info, visit oris.ch

Although more than 200 years old, the tourbillon is to watches what quad turbocharging is to supercars. Every brand with aspirations toward haute horlogerie status has to include one in its range, this feature designed to keep pocket watches from suffering the effects of gravity. And even confessed tourbillon cynics such as I admit they look amazing.

Blancpain has combined the tourbillon with its rival, the similar Carrousel, into a radical case shape, eliminated the dial, and created a showpiece of watch technology. Those in the know 50 years from now will look back at this watch and be rendered speechless by its complexity.

For more info, visit blancpain.com

As a backlash against the trend for huge watches, companies like Piaget championed the return of ultra-thin timepieces first seen in the 1950s. But Hermès, which has embraced high-end watchmaking with a vengeance, has a rather interesting alternative to the default choice of Piaget.

Slim watches are all about profiles, the cases being shallower thanks to movements such as the one made by Vaucher for Hermès, a mere 2.5mm thick – and it’s an automatic. Conversation piece it may be, but the looks, which embody the Hermès design language, will grab you well before you turn it over to see the movement.

For more info, visit uk.hermes.com

If rectangular rather than round is your preferred choice, one of the first-ever production wristwatches will appeal to you for its mix of longevity and looks. Despite it soon celebrating its first century, the Cartier Tank is undergoing one of its periodic spells of arch-coolness, and with no extra effort on the part of Cartier. It’s a groundswell.

This small, elegant timepiece, as worn by every style arbiter from Andy Warhol to Alain Delon, has again become so coveted that second-hand values have enjoyed an upward blip which dealers have not failed to notice. The model to buy, if you prefer a new one, is the absolutely perfect Louis Cartier, for its purity and style.

For more info, visit cartier.co.uk

Watch ambassadors are so commonplace that it’s hard to separate celebs who care about watches from those simply in it for the money. The Rolling Stones are careful about their collaborators. Besides, Ronnie Wood is known to be a watch enthusiast, while Charlie Watts is the coolest man in rock – in both attitude and style.

Hooking up with Zenith, makers of one of the finest chronograph movements ever, the Stones have placed their tongue logo on limited edition El Primero models. Expensive and exclusive, they sell out as soon as each series is announced. If you love rock’n’roll and watches, this is a marriage made in heaven. Or Le Locle, at least.

For more info, visit zenith-watches.com

Watches aren’t designed in a vacuum: Gérald Genta penned the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus among others, while Marc Newson was responsible for Ikepod. But these are costly options if you’re motivated by named artistry.

Junghans, firmly a maker in the ‘affordable’ sector, has trumped ’em all with the stunning Max Bill range. Swiss-born Bill worked as an architect, painter, sculptor and product designer, and created clocks and wristwatches for Junghans. They still look so up-to-the-minute that it’s hard to believe they were born 60 years ago.

For more info, visit junghans.de

This is definitely the Year of the Skeleton. A skeleton is a watch that has had its dial removed to so you can see the movement from the front, not just through a glass case back. Roger Dubuis has embraced this with a vigour second to none, though most high-end brands offer them now.

Its Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is about as ambitious as you can get, the words ‘double flying tourbillon’ telling the enthusiast that this watch is the equivalent of a Pagani Huayra. You don’t need to know a thing about watches to realise that this is watchmaking at its pinnacle.

For more info, visit rogerdubuis.com

Undoubtedly the success story of the last five years, the revival of the Tudor range is so complete that it has reinvigorated that difficult, crowded price sector between £1,500-£3,500. With its Rolex-made cases, fabulous styling and bargain pricing, how could it not succeed?

That was enough to guarantee a victorious return, but Tudor’s clever designer did something so brilliant that, within months, it was copied by all-and-sundry: he fitted the watches with striped, cloth over-under-straps, erroneously called ‘NATO’ straps by those too lazy to do their homework. They complement the Black Bay’s blue or maroon dials and bezels, adding to such innate desirability that watch journalists have even paid for theirs.

For more info, visit tudorwatch.com