Tissot’s CEO, Sylvain Dolla, is no stranger to big-time appointments within the Swatch Group. As the former head of Hamilton for ten years, a fruitful period that saw the brand rise in popularity in the mid-price segment, he was the obvious choice for the Tissot role when the opportunity arose in the summer of 2020.
But in the thralls of the pandemic and shifting geopolitical planes, Dolla did more than just galvanise the brand, he steered it towards its most successful period in decades – an achievement that deserves a great amount of praise.
It’s thanks to Dolla that the world was introduced to the Tissot PRX collection, a watch of unimaginable popularity among perhaps the most important (and oft overlooked) demographic in horology, the under 30s.
In carving out demand among this demographic, Dolla did something that many aspire to but precious few achieve: he made his brand cool. Considering Tissot’s 170 years worth of history, that’s a curveball few of us in the watch industry saw coming.
In spite of his sharp mind, Dolla is a humble man. He credits much of Tissot’s recent success to the brand’s immense archive of designs and the DNA of the company, but it’s difficult to ignore Tissot’s impressive resurgence under his command.
Below, Dolla walks us through his business philosophy, the early days of the PRX collection, and the latest edition to Tissot’s ranks, the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer.
You came to Tissot in the summer of 2020 after ten years at Hamilton. Could you tell us more about the Tissot you joined then – and how the brand has changed during your tenure?
Tissot is stronger than the people. It has been here since 1853. It's also very stable: even when the market is challenged, it remains very strong. So it would have been crazy to try and change it. My job is to continue and not to change the brand DNA.
We've been on a journey to uplift the brand appeal among consumers though, with the latest PRX Collection and its campaigns, for example. Like the products, the campaigns being created are edgy with more and more of a specific Tissot touch and modern appeal. We want to break the conventional codes of the traditional watch industry.
We have also been continuing our innovation strategy and reinforcing digitalisation with major projects on E-commerce and CRM for example. But most importantly, we will continue to work on the fine details of our product to make sure we provide our customers with the best qualitative timepieces with an unbeatable value.
From the outside looking in, it would appear that Tissot has chosen to pivot towards a younger demographic with a series of collections that emphasise a sporty, outdoor lifestyle. Could you tell me more about this thought process?
Tissot has evolved in sports timing since 1938 and gets inspiration from the great partnership it has in the world of basketball with FIBA and NBA, Cycling with UCI and the Tour de France and the technological marvels of MotoGP.
It has also used the outdoors to test out the watch’s performances. Since 1957 and during the following years for example, if you look at the history of the Seastar T12 that led to the Seastar we have as part of our collection today, it was worn by mountaineers climbing the Andes Cordilleras or Himalayan mountains testing its resistance to extreme conditions. So the sporty and outdoor lifestyle aspects are not new to the brand. That said, we are continuing to develop them with research and technology. The T-Touch Connect Sport is the perfect example of this.
How much of your decision making was driven by a gap in the market you’d identified and how much by a need to stand apart from your main competitors?
Our position within the watch industry is very clear in terms of price point and with that, the demographic becomes evident. We are the entry to a fine Swiss quality and the perfect first watch for the young and ambitions people to get acquire to celebrate a defining moment in life, achievements or new found status.
If we look at statistics, in studies, we also see that the age group that is most inclined to buy Swiss watches are below 30 years old. In an age with not an unlimited budget, Tissot is the choice for younger audience.
The age group that is most inclined to buy Swiss watches are below 30 years old
There have been many successes in recent years but the introduction of the modern PRX collection in 2021 is the best of all. Could you take me back to the day’s before the launch, the design process, and what your expectations were for this new lineup? Did you expect such considerable interest?
I have to begin by telling you about my first week at Tissot. When I joined, I discovered the richness of the archives since Tissot’s foundation in 1853, which, I have to say, I had underestimated. We have 7,000 beautiful watches dating back to 1853. When I opened the draws of the archives I was like a kid at Christmas at every draw, discovering new beauties. There are extraordinary minute repeaters for example but all of sudden I pulled out the 70s draw and saw what would become the Tissot PRX. I just loved the design. We really worked on all the details of the watch in order to achieve the results we did with an extremely qualitative watch that could make the difference. We also did everything to make it not only look good but feel good on the wrist. This was essential for me.
It answered the demands of consumers looking for a modern watch with a retro touch, thanks to its 70s look and the fact that it is based on a model from the archives gives it more authenticity and credibility, which is much appreciated by consumers. We also attracted a younger audience, reaching people from 18-35 years old with the first quartz model.
Following its success, we expanded the collection with an automatic version, featuring a Powermatic 80 movement and a chronograph with a Valjoux movement for our connoisseurs looking for a quality timepiece that has a history that marked the brand, reaching a broader audience as well. And launched the 35mm models as well.
The PRX launch is definitely a success factor. When we launched the collection, we knew it was going to be a success. That said, we underestimated just how much demand it would generate, as our forecasts were massively exceeded. We are selling 20 times more units than we originally planned, which was a very positive surprise. We are happy to say that the PRX has also become one of our bestsellers, alongside the Le Locle, Seastar and Bellissima. It has become a must-have for Tissot customers and has also helped to reach new enthusiasts and reach a younger audience.
When we launched the PRX collection, we knew it was going to be a success
The PRX line-up has continued to grow since then, including complications and collaborations, but there’s a new special edition launching 22 August in collaboration with Japanese anime series UFO Robot Grendizer. Can you tell me more about how it came about, and what excites you about it?
The whole project takes me on a nostalgic but joyful journey back in time. It was a manga that I watched when I was a kid. I would run back home to get there right on time. So it was a great honour for me to collaborate with the great Go Nagai who is behind those stunning drawings. The PRX was the perfect opportunity as it seemed natural mixing Swiss craftsmanship and 70s design with manga pop culture, both coming from the same time.
This special edition watch combines the vintage design of the PRX with the iconic elements of Grendizer. This watch’s blue dial, inspired by the blue of Grendizer itself, glows in the dark with a yellow Super-LumiNova bust of the robot hero. You can also see a Harken second hand and a uniquely engraved rotor. In the upper flange, there is a text in Japanese that reads "UFOロボ グレンダイザー", the original title for Grendizer.
Collaborations have become the backbone of many fashion brands over the last decade, do you believe that the same may one day be true of the watch industry?
I believe there is a difference. A watch is an emotional product first and foremost. Of course, it has to start with the design. If it is strong, then you create an emotion with aesthetics and finishes.
In terms of design, if you look at the PRX’s bracelet, for example, it has the light effect playing with brushed and polished elements, which accentuates the light on the bracelet. Secondly, it needs to be well constructed. It needs to be comfortable. The bracelet not only integrates perfectly into the case but it is also comfortable to wear. If it’s too sharp or wide, it's beautiful but not comfortable.
I pay a lot of attention to comfort. Sometimes that aspect can be set aside and forgotten by the designers. It’s not about putting gold in the watch but working on the details, indices, the brushed aspect on the dial and pushing boundaries with suppliers so that every element is as you want it to be to increase the perceived value with the end result.
But then, if you also have a nice story that is authentic around the brand, then you have a winning formula. So I would say that collaborations provide that story and authenticity but I don’t believe they will become the backbone of the watch industry. Watches are more than just fashion.
Do you believe the watch market as a whole has a tendency to play it too safe, to follow the trends rather than set new trends?
There is a certain tradition in watchmaking and that is what is valued as well. It is a true craft. People are attached to that, which sometimes means that safe is not always bad. That said, we are continually searching for the latest technologies, materials and innovations that we are bringing to our watches. Tissot has been an innovator by tradition and still is. You can see with the investment in solar technology for example that powers the T-Touch Connect Sport. We are continually trying to take our craft and expertise to the next level and breaking the codes with the products and campaigns.
From Tissot's archives
This PLA model would go on to become the reborn PRX collection – an immensely successful release for Tissot
Tissot has a rich watchmaking history, but it seems to utilise its archives in a different way to some other brands. Is this something you are mindful about to avoid stifling your own creativity?
In our archives, there is an absolute treasure. We can play with design and we can talk about products from the past, technologies, expertise, experiences, proving the authenticity of the brand and products. We see a lot of reinterpretations and vintage models that are on-trend. The Tissot Telemeter 1938 is another example of that trend. It represents some of the first chronographs that Tissot used to enter the sports timekeeping world. It is also equipped with the newly upgraded Valjoux A05.231 automatic extended 68-hour power reserve. It’s finished off with a new Tissot Heritage rotor design. It’s a beautiful piece! These pieces are true marvels that deserve to be seen, which is why we revive a historical watch every year.
That said, we are of course not only focusing on heritage pieces but also working on modern new developments as well.
How has the watch world changed since you first started in the industry?
I would like to point out the fast evolving technology. We continually need to do everything in our power to be at the forefront, creating new exciting experiences whether online, in our boutiques or at points of sales. The watches we create also need to be allies in people's day to day lives. It is becoming more and more about work life balance, and that as well needs to be taken into consideration to cater to people’s demands in what they are seeking.
What makes the Swatch Group special is the strength that comes from uniting all brands
In June, it was announced that you were elected to the Executive Group Management Board of the Swatch Group. What does this additional role entail and what might it say about Tissot’s importance to the wider business?
It is a great honour to have been appointed as a member of the Executive Management Board of the Swatch Group. Many great responsibilities come with it, which I will take very seriously. What makes the Swatch Group special is the strength that comes from uniting all brands. They all have their role to play and are all equally as important.
If you were to make one prediction about the future of the watch industry, what would it be?
Although Tissot is still performing very well, we know we are still facing a hard time within the industry, with the war in Russia and Ukraine and the prices of materials going up and the economy not being at its best in key markets such as China. As the year 2020 has shown us, the ability of a company to adapt is the key to success. The idea is not only to face a crisis, but above all to continue to satisfy the customer as best as possible. While we all wish we had never experienced this crisis, it is important to learn from it and then remain optimistic. I am still confident people will continue to love Swiss watches and therefore am confident for the industry’s future.
Where do you see Tissot in ten years?
I see it having reached new heights. It still has a great potential to be explored and I am counting on all the young population to take it to where it deserves to be as it continues to be number one in the traditional Swiss watch industry.
For more information, tissotwatches.com
