Ever since Andy Kerr and Tom Gibson made their mark on the London cocktail bar scene, with Spitalfields’ Discount Suit Company and Dalston’s Ruby’s respectively, they’ve established themselves as innovative, risk-taking mixologists. Parasol, conveniently situated in the geographically ambiguous stretch where Kingsland Road morphs into Stoke Newington High Street, is no exception.
This new venture has a distinctly more minimalistic approach to decor than its predecessors, and feels less cosy than nearby Ruby’s, with its lush velvet banquettes and warm lighting.
But this sparseness can also be refreshing. Especially during a summer where London temperatures are regularly reaching 30 degrees, Parasol’s space feels pleasingly roomy, an almost speakeasy-like underground retreat. A soundtrack played by DJs under strict instruction to stick to 80s and 90s NYC disco adds to the refined and perfectly curated vibe.
The roughly plastered walls and exposed brick in the bathrooms mean that this could be nearly any trending cocktail bar in East London, and the space has the potential to feel vast and gloomy. There is, however, intimacy to be found here too, in the booths lining the back wall, their teak benches lit only by a single tealight candle.
What to order?
When there’s only a candle and monogrammed coaster on the table (the sleek, black umbrella motif is ubiquitous in the bar’s branding), the focus really is on the drinks. And Kerr and Gibson’s dream team have excelled with their cocktail list, comprised of simple bases refined by unusual finishing touches.
The Korean Jesus – tequila, mezcal, and soju laced with gochujang, coriander, and honey – is a standout, and the Kinder Bueno whiskey cocktail, nutty and creamy and dusted with white chocolate, is as indulgent as you might expect. Parasol also remain committed to their musical theme with a ‘Disco’ list of remixed classics: try the Rude Cosmo, a tart take on the typically vodka-based concoction featuring tequila and the fragrant, spice-laced aperitivo Savoia Orancio.
In a distinctly classy take on the cocktail pitcher, Parasol offers a smaller list of sharers, designed to serve four to six people. From this selection, we particularly recommend the Death by Snu Snu, a soothing combination of Bombay Sapphire and the Alpine herbal liqueur Génépi.
What’s the damage?
For a cocktail bar in the neighbourhood, it’s relatively reasonable! Every (non-sharing) cocktail from the House and Disco lists is priced at £10, with the exception of their Umbrella Vesper martini, which comes in at a very respectable £7. Wines, mostly French and Italian, sit in the £7-9 range for a glass, while few of the available bottles cost more than around £60.
Anything else to note?
Since we may have reached the zenith of the small plates epidemic, it’s pleasing to note that Parasol have kept their food offering relatively simple. Choose from a rotating set of three cheeses accompanied by quince and grapes, breadsticks served with a moreish, cayenne-dusted hummus, or plump green olives presented in the ubiquitous Perello can.
If you do happen to be looking for more ambitious food offerings in the area, Parasol is handily close to one of London’s most vibrant Turkish food scenes. Before or after your sojourn underground, sample the wares at Cirrik just next door, or Mangal II further down the street – we especially love their vegetarian, mushroom filled Manti dumplings.
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6 Stoke Newington Rd, London N16 7XJ; Parasol
