Kudu popped up on the group Whatsapp a few years back. South African restaurant in Peckham. Has anyone been? It’s fantastic. Every few months the name would resurface as yet another member of the group became part of the swelling Kudu fanclub. After a while, the group could be divided into Those Who’d Been To Kudu and Those Who Hadn’t Been To Kudu, the winners and the losers, the enlightened and the damned.
This fanclub extends far beyond my friendship group: the flagship restaurant opened in 2019 and proved popular enough to support several spinoffs, including a Braai restaurant (Kudu Grill), a tapas restaurant (Little Kudu) and a private dining experience. Kudu Collective is a veritable franchise at this point. Married founders Amy Corbin and Patrick Williams will be played by Adam Driver and Brie Larson when someone gets round to filming their origin story.
My excitement on visiting was twofold: firstly, the anticipation of what would clearly be a phenomenal meal paired with the relief of finally being able to anoint myself as Someone Who’d Been To Kudu, gain access to the satellite Whatsapp group and weekly group meetings, spit in the stupid bovine faces of those who hadn’t. I went with my friend Tom, another member of the Whatsapp group who required induction as a Kudu goer. He works as a paramedic and taking him to a nice restaurant means I’m doing my bit for the NHS – don’t mention it, Nye.
Kudu is one of those miraculous little venues that somehow fits dozens of diners into a space not much larger than a shoebox, and does so without feeling overcrowded. There’s a real warmth to the place, a combination of the incredible staff, the unfussy decor and the glow of a collective good time. Because what emerges from the kitchen is pretty miraculous as well.
What to order?
The menu is divided into three sections: snacks, small plates, large plates. (Four sections if you count desert.) You’ll want to order two of each. You’ll want to order all of each but human physiology has its limitations. We asked our lovely server Hazel for guidance. She basically insisted we order a specific dish from each section and let us choose the other one. (As well as Hazel, we were looked after by the equally great Morgan and Amber. Kudu does staff as well as it does food.)
Firstly, the bread. Inspired by Patrick’s grandmother, the bread is a Kudu signature dish and is enjoyed with bacon butter, prawn butter, or both butters. “You must have both,” said Hazel. The butter comes in frying pans, liquid and glistening. You dip your bread – no, you wipe your bread. You wipe your soft warm bread in the molton butter, scooping up the prawns or bacon cuts. You whisper a silent promise to the gym treadmill, and thank God for Patrick's grandmother.
Prawn butter
The bread is a non-negotiable. Otherwise, the floor is yours, albeit Hazel will happily lead the waltz at your request. Bangers abound. Peri peri chicken wings stuffed with apricots. Confit pressed chicken with pickled girolles, topped by a bird’s nest of fried vermicelli. Smoked scallop ravioli covered by a gleaming lake of sweetcorn, miso and chive sauce, warm and creamy, nourishing and delicious.
For the main dishes, Hazel suggested spiced African carrot with goat’s curd and I’m very glad she did – no way would we have ordered something so brazenly vegetarian. More fool us: the carrots are fantastic, firm and sweet, tasting of virtue. As Tom notes, “I’m not sure everything we’ve eaten is healthy, but it feels healthy,” and that frankly is the real quiz.
Spiced African carrot
We also had grilled venison loin. Three fat cuts arrive: pink, soft, shiny, and served with a parsnip purée that makes you reconsider any negative thoughts you've ever harboured towards parsnips. (Grandma used to boil them.) “Christmas on a plate,” said Amber and that's pretty much it. I'm surprised it doesn't come with a cracker.
Onto dessert. Choose between salted chocolate ganache topped by chocolate crumble or bruleed figs on a bergamot posset. I’m kidding, order both! The figs are torched at the table in front of you. There’s also an array of South African wines to choose from – our bottle of De Grendel Sauvignon Blanc served us well although connaisseurs may venture deeper into the list.
Spiced carrots
What’s the damage?
It adds up. Nothing here’s crazy expensive on its own: the venison at £28 was our biggest indulgence, although sirloin steak was available at £39.50 per person. If you sample the recommended six dishes, you’ll inevitably be tickling three figures – sans wine that starts at £30 a bottle. We’re talking an indulgence more than a blowout but don’t expect to do Kudu on the cheap.
Anything else to note?
A kudu is a large African antelope with white stripes and twisted horns. With any luck your dining companion will speculate over the restaurant’s name and then you can explode this knowledge bomb over them. If they haven’t speculated by dessert, explode it regardless.
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119 Queen's Rd, London SE15 2EZ; Kudu
