Autumn/Winter 23 Style Guide

Raincoat

Private White VC

When a collection is called ‘Autumn Rain’, you know that a brand understands the needs of its clientele.

Private White VC is a quintessentially British company, which appreciates our Sceptred Isle’s uniquely demanding weather patterns better than most. That’s partially because it’s based in Salford, where it rains. A lot.

So if you’re looking for a waterproof jacket, you’re in safe hands. Proudly made in Manchester, the home of cotton – and rain – each garment has been fabricated from the finest 100% waterproof fabrics and meticulously handcrafted by its team of long-serving artisans.

Cotton rainwear has been the cornerstone of the factory for more than a century – and this Ventile DB trench is indicative of the kind of quality you can expect. Details include military-grade copper hardware from RIRI of Switzerland, etched copper rivets on the neck and hanger loop, and button-adjustable cuffs. It comes in midnight blue, sage green and our favourite, deep ocean blue [pictured].

Private White VC Ventile DB Trench Coat, £895; privatewhitevc.com

Boots

Crockett & Jones

Rough-out suede is a wax-impregnated suede with a tight fibre structure. It’s extremely hard-wearing, and takes on a unique character through wear.

It takes its name from a development meeting between Crockett & Jones and Ralph Lauren, when the British shoemaker used to develop footwear for the fashion house in the 1980s.

The term stuck. During wear, it roughs up with larger folds as its comfort levels increase – similar to selvedge denim.

It looks superb on the Islay – a country-going, full brogue Derby boot that’s so at home in the Highlands of Scotland that Daniel Craig wore them on his return to James Bond’s childhood home, Skyfall Lodge.

£520; crockettandjones.com

The deconstructed blazer

Brunello Cucinelli

The Prince of Wales check dates back to the 19th century, originating in the Scottish estate of Seafield. King Edward VII frequented the land to hunt – and took a shine to the pattern, incorporating it into his own wardrobe, but it was his son – the Prince of Wales – who popularised the check.

Fast forward to 2023, and the pattern remains one of the most sophisticated suiting options – and is executed here with trademark Italian flair by Brunello Cucinelli.

The unconstructed blazer benefits from a ‘Solomeo shoulder’: named after the hamlet where the company is located, the tapered and pronounced cut of this shoulder style enhances the male physique without the need for padding.

For the full effect, opt for matching virgin wool and cashmere trousers – and finish off the look with a chunky cashmere sweater. This handcrafted example from Brunello Cucinelli is embroidered with the word ‘Humanitas’ – a philosophic ideal that dates back to the Roman empire. It asserts man’s importance as a cultivated being, in control of his moral universe. We’re certain you can relate.

Brunello Cucinelli blazer, £4,050; trousers, £1,370; turtleneck sweater, £3,250; superlight denim shirt, £750; silk pocket square, £190, brunellocucinelli.com

Bomber jacket

Blauer USA

The American bomber jacket has always been cool – but the likes of Ryan Gosling in Drive and Tom Cruise in Top Gun: Maverick have taken it to new heights.

For a slice of genuine American pie, you’ll want to head to Blauer USA. Its new AW23 collection has contemporary versions of the iconic bomber, alongside other hardy staples including work and field jackets.

What really sets the brand apart is the quality of materials. The new ultralight matt nylon does exactly what it says on the tin: so lightweight you barely feel like you’re wearing it, and a matt finish that is a little more restrained than the glossy sheen of some examples.

Then there’s the use of eco-friendly padding, including Sorona and Repreve. In line with today’s eco-sustainable orientation and commitment to the environment, Blauer USA focuses on research into use of eco-compatible and recycled materials.

Blauer USA Bolton eco-padded bomber jacket, £390; blauerusa.com

The shooting attire

Holland & Holland

If you’re a keen shooter, it stands to reason you’d turn to a gunmaker for your wardrobe choices.

Gunmakers don’t come much more hallowed than Holland & Holland – dating back to 1835, it’s considered one of the finest in the world. However, until recently the brand focussed its attention on the guns themselves. But now, you can buy into the Holland & Holland way of life through its clothing and accessories range produced from authentic materials and crafted by true artisans.

[Left] Royal Shooting Jacket, £1,295; Northwood Tweed Flat Cap, £95; Northwood Moleskin Breeks, £495; Northwood Brushed Cotton Shirt, £195; Northwood Shooting Sock & Garter, £125; [right] Harrow Brushed Cotton Jeans, £125; H&H Cap, £30. All available from hollandandholland.com

Shacket

Neem London

When it comes to the autumnal transitional months, nothing is quite as versatile as a shirt jacket – or ‘shacket’ to its mates. This regenerative cotton navy shirt jacket from Neem London is ideal to wear as a jacket during the warmer months or, as the temperature drops, to layer up as a shirt.

It also features a contemporary – and comfortable – collar design, ensuring you’ll stand out from the crowd for all the right reasons.

And best of all, it’s made from 100% Regenerative Organic Certified™ cotton. Sourced from farms committed to the highest organic standards, this shirt helps promote soil rehabilitation, animal welfare, and improved farmer livelihoods. The cotton twill is even traceable back to the very farm from which it came.

£139, neemlondon.com

The scent

Acqua di Parma

No outfit is complete without the right scent. And when it comes to olfactory style you can’t go wrong with Acqua di Parma.

The brand has been producing iconic fragrances for more than 100 years now. Indeed, Colonia was heralded as Italy’s first eau de cologne – created by Italian baron Carlo Magnani in Parma in 1916.

The brand holds onto its roots firmly, with each scent having strong ties to its Italian homeland. Take its latest release, Zafferano. This scent embodies Venice – for centuries a gateway on the spice route that united East and West. It delivers notes of orange blossom, jasmine sambac and geranium, before being enhanced by woody notes of tonka bean and vanilla, which soften dusky accents of saffron. Delizioso!

£275, selfridges.com

The Weekender

Chapman

Thanks to a focus on craftsmanship and traditional manufacturing, Chapman has established itself as a leader in its industry. With a legacy of traditional sporting bags, its philosophy revolves around durability, functionality, and attention to detail.

It’s been refining and defining weekender bags since 1984. In other words, this latest iteration [left] has been in the making for more than 30 years.

Whether you’re heading to the city or the countryside, this bag is fit for purpose: light, rugged, and classically stylish.

A laptop sleeve and a waterproof shoe pocket create a bag that combines elegance and utility.

It comes in navy or deep olive, and is made from the highest quality leather and bonded canvas.

£730; chapmanmade.uk

The tweed

Walker Slater

Scottish contemporary tweed brand Walker Slater continues to carry a wide appeal catering for both men and women across varied style types. The brand's well-thought through and detailed collections from suiting to outerwear and accessories have been garnering favour for a good few years with customers buying into full looks or simply wearing single pieces with a multitude of looks, which is the appeal of a timeless tweed.

With a large menswear store in Covent Garden alongside the longer standing womenswear offer a few doors down and with stores in both Edinburgh and Glasgow, Walker Slater is still firmly on the map when it comes to getting a cool, quality look for a decent price.

Model wears the Edward suit in Shetland Donegal tobacco, priced £295 for the jacket; £105 for the waistcoat and £145 for the trousers.

For more information, see walkerslater.com

Commuter gear

Ron Dorff

Paris-based sports and loungewear brand Ron Dorff is one of those you may have heard of on your travels during the summer. With a retro cool aesthetic and very clear, sporty vibe across its entire collection – which ranges from swimwear, shorts and Tees, right through to beautiful cashmere knitwear and pants as well as accessories – Ron Dorff is a premium mark of style and quality.

As we start to return to the city – whether in London, Paris, Berlin, New York or LA – Ron Dorff’s chic urban collection ‘Back to the City’ features pieces to be worn for a multitude of occasions including after-work gatherings, relaxing with friends, as well as travelling to and from work.

Seen here is a Milano wool jacket in dark sage priced £255; navy striped sports chino pants, £220; and urban tennis shoes, £205. It’s a smart enough outfit that you can rock it to a meeting, but sporty enough so you can cycle there, too.

rondorff.com

Trainers

Toms

The low-top sneaker has come a long way since Adidas dropped the first Superstar back in 1969. (For starters, no one “dropped” anything back then – apart from the ball.)

Fast forward to 2023, low-tops are a style staple for the man about town – particularly the all-leather ones which can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

For proper globetrotters, Toms has now introduced this – the TRVL Lite Trainer: lightweight, durable, and extra-comfortable, it’s as easy to pair as it is to pack.

Featuring moulded dual-density cushioned insoles made with 26% eco content, it’s available in water-resistant tan leather [pictured] or suede and canvas uppers, making it perfect for pairing with jeans, shorts and more.

£85, toms.com

The relaxed look

Hamilton & Hare

Following the recent launch of the brand’s successful T-shirt collaboration with the Sir Henry Moore Foundation, Marylebone-based menswear brand Hamilton & Hare has released its ideal collection for the new season: a capsule aimed at the discerning customer who finds himself trying to capture a naturally stylish look, but with comfort at its core.

Whether going back to work in the city, working from home or juggling in-person meetings with those online, Hamilton & Hare’s Autumn/Winter wardrobe is a capsule of premium, comfortable and relaxed pieces that take you from the bedroom, to the office and on to drinks with friends and then back again without compromising on your style.

Model wears pull over hood and track pant in gate green, priced £165 and £130 respectively.

For more information, see hamiltonandhare.com

The backpack

Troubadour x Thomas Pink

The fashion world loves a collaboration – and while some can feel like a bit of a stretch, Troubadour x Thomas Pink is a match made in heaven. Or at least, in St James’s.

The London shirtmaker and London accessories brand have teamed up to launch a collection of four bags all aimed at their overlapping target audience: city-dwellers who love adventure and travel.

The Caboodle Tech Case and Pathfinder Slim Briefcase are great for meetings. And if you need a change of clothes, there’s the Embark Duffle and Apex Backpack models. Both of these come with a matching shirt pouch. This streamline accessory is designed to slip inside the bag so that you can transport your Thomas Pink shirt with ease.

Apex backpack, £270, thomaspink.com

The shoes

Kleman

Following the opening of its flagship store on Rue Du Temple in the popular Marais district of Paris this summer, Kleman has further cemented its legacy as a go-to footwear brand within the workwear/style sector.

Part of the established Cleon Manufacturing Group, which began life back in 1945 in Nantes, North West France, Kleman emerged in the style stakes ten years ago after being spotted by a Japanese buyer who took to the product.

Originally manufacturing shoes from its on-site factory, which still exists today, for industry workers including the postal and rail service as well as French Military, Kleman has evolved its shoe range into an eclectic mix of style must-haves, including the popular Padror, of which their have been near on 50 iterations, alongside the Frodan, Major, Ballast sandal and a growing range of boots and now sneakers, too.

This image features the new Accore in black, priced at £190. Visit kleman-france.com

The quilted vest

Unfeigned

Unfeigned is a Madrid-based menswear brand founded with the goal of creating a sustainable, contemporary and functional line. The brand strives to merge smart and casual wear by offering timeless pieces made with organic cotton, recycled fabrics and other types of responsible materials.

The AW23 collection takes a step further on techwear. There are sets with sartorial cuts and lightweight high-performance fabrics, from all-terrain jackets with matching pants that are thermo-sealed and water-repellent to a padded anorak piece.

The line-woven essentials for layering include the signature velour fabric on new pieces like the oversized polo and the long sleeve. These perfect staples come in washed and pastel shades and are completed with the brand's new take on iconic oxford and seersucker baggy shirts.

To finish with a relaxed yet elegant look, add this quilted reversible vest to your shopping list – available for £165.

For more information, see unfeignedgear.com

The jacquard jacket

Anerkjendt

Anerkjendt (pronounced Anakin – as in Skywalker) is a workwear brand which hails from Denmark. Inspired by the garments worn by working fisherman and dock workers from yesteryear, the aesthetic of the brand incorporates older, more traditional silhouettes with playful fabrics and designs to present a wardrobe of cool, easy-to-wear and quality garments.

Pictured from its AW23 shoot in Iceland is the Akotto heavy jacquard jacket priced at £145. For more information, see anerkjendt.com

The cap

Varsity Hardwear

Norwegian cap authority Varsity Headwear has unveiled its latest oilskin collection for the new Autumn Winter season, including the eye-catching tartan Iona.

Sourced from traditional Scottish Oilskin producer Halley Stevensons, the 100% waxed cotton fabric has a beautiful finish complete with nostalgic smell, is water repellent and adds character over time with a ‘patina’ effect.

The oilskin cap is lined with a luxurious viscose material and at the back, features an adjustable nylon strap with stainless steel rings to personalise the fit, complete with Varsity’s signature logo.

Model wears blue Ripstop oilskin cap with soft front, £80.

For further information visit varistyheadwear.com

The Bodhi jacket

Kardo

Founded ten years ago by Londoner Rikki Kher, KARDO is a brand on the rise. Headquartered in New Delhi, where all the products are made on site under his watchful eye, the brand utilises the rich and varied craftsmanship from within communities across the country who specialise in everything from weaving and dying techniques through to hand-stitching.

Pictured from its latest AW23 collection is the khadi handloom denim featuring Nagaland hand woven patch pockets. Nagaland hand-weaving is done on traditional loin or back-strap looms in motifs representing tribes and tribal groupings that still live in this north eastern region of India. Naga hand-weaving is still the preserve of women.

Seen here is the bodhi jacket in relaxed fit indigo, £235, and natural, £215.

For more information, see kardo.co

The dinner suit

Henry Poole x Jaguar TCS Racing

If you’re looking to up your tuxedo game, Henry Poole has you covered. After all, the Savile Row stalwart essentially invented the dinner jacket when the Prince of Wales (and future King Edward VII) asked his tailor and friend Henry Poole to cut a short coat he could wear at informal dinners at Sandringham.

Fast forward to 2023, and the tailors are still masters of their art. Which explains why Jaguar TCS Racing team principal James Barclay reached out to them to create the perfect DJ to match his jetset life. The Formula E calendar takes him from Hyderabad to Jakarta to São Paulo – and he wanted a dinner suit that works in any scenario. King Edward would no doubt approve.

£6,225, henrypoole.com