How many of us remember Miami Vice? If not the TV classic, what about the movie reboot, itself about to turn 20 years old this summer? Whatever you thought about the quality of the action and acting in either – and I have to say, I think the Colin Farrell version was better than it got credit for – they both have at least one thing in common: the main characters knew how to wear a suit in the heat.
The key tactic they so ably employed was volume. The large, louche fits seen in the 1980s and ‘90s have, thankfully, once again replaced the over-tailored, spray-on looks that polluted much of the 2010s, and in doing so made it much easier for those of us who need, or simply want, to wear suits in the sun to stay cool.
The silhouettes seen on the runways for SS26 spoke clearly to the joys of a flowing fit. Saint Laurent presented suits with decadently low gorges and low-slung button stances, gloriously realised in rich purple (jacket £3,725) and chocolate-brown silks (£3,990) or a light sandy mohair (£2,570); Paul Smith showed double-breasted jackets in a glorious purple linen (£1,000).
Saint Laurent suit in purple silk
Saint Laurent suit in beige mohair
Garments which move freely with you are exactly what you need in hot weather, creating a channel to move the warm air away from your body, but it’s not just a practical benefit: the swing brings swagger.
So too does the flamboyant use of colour, because why not stand out a little? Summer is a time of joy, of celebration – a time to dress for a party, even if the party isn’t yet planned.
A little spectacle runs in the DNA of the Rio de Janeiro-born Frescobol Carioca, which chooses to inject some of that Latin extravagance into the colour choices for their Zanini linen blazer (£595).
And then of course, there are the classics: Giorgio Armani, so renowned for mastery of the relaxed fit and the elegance and drape of its realisation, delivers this season’s in timeless beige linen (POA at Giorgio Armani on Sloane Street).
Giorgio Armani Linen Suit
Frescobol Carioca Linen Jacket
Beneath the suit is the place for real expression. There’s no need for a collar and tie these days – unless you’re really committed to the look, in which case good luck to you – but a vibrant shirt, worn very open with its collar over that of your jacket, brings even more character and confidence to the look.
For this season Sunspel has released a camp collar (sometimes called a Cuban collar; since we’re on ‘80s icons, think Scarface) version of their iconic Riviera Polo (£175). The mesh weave of the cotton was designed with the highest of temperatures in mind, while the shape of the collar lends itself well to spreading outside a jacket.
A shirt in crêpe de Chine (a weave of pure silk which is more open and breathable than other silks) also works well, as it retains silk’s weight, lustre, and soft touch against the skin, so will interact well with your jacket but not cling to your body when hot. A humble vest underneath (Scott Fraser Collection does a great version in cotton mesh, £50 for a two-pack) will keep sweat off the garment and also add an edge to the look.
Knitted T-Shirt by The Anthology
Paul Smith pleated trousers and t-shirt
A T-shirt will also work under a suit, if it’s done right. Many will look unfinished, too close to exposed underwear, against the lines of a suit jacket. If that's your aim, ditch the shirt and wear just your vest: going all the way with that style looks audacious, confident; the diluted version just comes off unprepared.
But the right T-shirt, which can match the jacket for structure but undercut it for formality, can be key to refined nonchalance. “A ribbed neckline that holds its shape; a ribbed hem that sits neatly at the waistband without sagging,” explains Buzz Tang, one of the founders of tailoring house The Anthology, “will give a clean, balanced silhouette that feels considered and flattering.” That neckline, strong enough to complement the jacket, is visible on his brand’s own version ($125), knitted in fine Supima cotton to allow air to circulate more freely.
The final touch to a summer suit is suitably flashy sunglasses. Wayfarers can look a bit Blues Brothers, and Aviators are too Secret Service. What you’re looking for here is something that adds to the final look rather than takes away from it.
Turn to Moscot. The five-generation, family-owned New York eyewear brand creates frames rooted in heritage, craftsmanship, and downtown attitude. The tailoring may do the talking, but the right sunglasses will have the final word.
If the rumours are true, Austin Butler and Michael B Jordan will soon be bringing us another incarnation of Crockett and Tubbs and their inimitable Miami style. I say bring it on, and bring on the magnificently expressive tailoring that will come with it.
