Mathias le Fèvre’s ten rules of summer tailoring

These days, Mathias le Févre is less of a model and more of a brand.

Although the Danish 24 year old began his career on the catwalks, he’s already become the epitome of millennial success – an entrepreneur, an influencer, a creative director, a stylist, and now and again, he even manages to model, too.

He’s worked with the likes of Ralph Lauren, Ettinger, Vacheron Constantin and Globe-Trotter – not to mention his ambassadorship for Savile Row stalwart, Gieves & Hawkes.

And he’s just 24. At 24, we were still wearing Nirvana T-Shirts and trying to figure out how to speed up our dial-up connection. But we digress.

We asked him to put together his ten rules of summer style. All the information you need to draw those admiring glances from friends and strangers. (Sorry: draw even more admiring glances.)

Notepads at the ready…

1. Stay cool with linens, silks and light cottons.

We all know that summer in the UK is not exactly summer on the Côte d’Azur. But so far we’ve been blessed with warmer weather – and now people are returning to work, it’s time to freshen your look. It’s an unspoken rule at this time of year, that it is acceptable to loosen the formal dress code and ease in to more casual tailoring. Think breezy linen trousers, silk blends and relaxed cotton suits. These fabrics are highly breathable and will keep you cool even on the warmest day of the year – in the UK, at least.

GET THE LOOK: Chambray Shirt by Edward Sexton | Cream jacket by Edward Sexton | Heritage trouser by DAKS | Sartorial socks by London Sock Co

2. Mind your feet! Never wear shoes without socks

A big trend within menswear has been to slip into shoes and loafers barefoot when the sun breaks out. A desire to show off bare ankles? I guess? If you are headed to the beach and the footwear is flip flops or sandals… then fine. But, a three-piece with no socks while strolling around in the city. A big NO from me. Wearing tailoring with no socks is not only a style crime, but it is also very unhygienic. If you absolutely must release your sweaty ankles, then remember to wear ‘no-show socks’. At least then your feet won’t fall off…

3. Go unlined or half lined

So far, we have covered the area of suit fabrics, but the outer layer of a jacket or a trouser is not the only element that determines whether a garment will be breathable or not. I learned this the hard way a few years back when ignorantly commissioning a fully lined cream Irish linen suit, thinking it would be appropriate for the high English summer. I chose Irish linen as it is known for being a sturdier linen, creating less creases. However, it is also a thicker material and combined with a full lining, the suit is unbearable in the heat.

GET THE LOOK: Chambray Shirt by Edward Sexton | Cricket Jumper by Hackett London | Heritage trouser: by DAKS | Sartorial socks by London Sock Co | Horse-bit loafers by CARMINA Shoemaker

4. Earthy tones for a less formal look

Say hello to your new favourite summer palette! Earthy tones are my absolute go-to colourway for summer tailoring; variations of browns, greens and sandy beiges. Not only do they mix and match really well, but they also create a fantastic casual and laid-back look. They make a statement without shouting and that alone is enough reason to invite them into your wardrobe.

5. Summer layering? linen shirts, polos, t-shirts or even an overshirt

Within the style community, ‘layering’ is a term usually associated with autumn / winter dressing. It’s Transition 101 – and perhaps one of the only reasons you would ever want the summer to end. However, summer layering is a thing, too. Especially in England. Try pairing a tank top, an overshirt and a light jacket, or perhaps start experimenting with neckerchiefs in fabrics such as cotton and linen to achieve the layered look.

6. Think functionality first

This is probably one of the most important rules for when it comes to style. It might seem obvious, but I’ve seen some odd incidents of ‘the wrong suit, at the wrong time’ – and have also been guilty of my own fair share of mistakes. So here we go: when travelling, wear a jacket with lots of pockets to safely store your boarding pass, passport, headphones, keys etc. Also, think removable layers, so you can adapt to different temperatures. When going to the races, don’t wear a heavy three-piece suit, but wear a hat to save yourself from turning lobster red. When going to the beach, don’t wear fully laced oxfords, wear slippers or sandals. I hope that you get where I’m going with this. I can’t stress this enough: think functionality first.

GET THE LOOK: House check jacket by DAKS | Bespoke silk shirt by Edward Sexton | Brown paisley tie by Eton Shirts | Heritage trouser by DAKS | MTO Spectator shoes by CARMINA Shoemaker

7. Forget slim-fitting trousers, go wide to keep cool

I have always aspired to wear a clean-cut trouser that falls straight down the leg. When buying my first suits, I made the mistake of having all my trousers tapered super slim, thinking it would make them look neat. After a lot of trial and error, I learned about fabric drape and that a fuller trouser is key to a clean straight-leg trouser. Not only does a wider fit offer a beautiful aesthetic, but it is extremely comfortable and will also keep you cool by allowing air to circulate in the excess leg room. So, there is no doubt that a pair of wide-leg linen trousers will be your best friend this summer.

8. It is all in the details: accessorise!

A suit can be great on its own, but by accessorising you will elevate the character and personality of your look. My favourite summer accessories include sunglasses, neckerchiefs and hats. Find the right shades for your face shape. Invest in neckwear in multiple colours, texture and patterns. Don’t be shy to visit a hatter and try all the hats until you find you favourite. There’s a right hat for every head. You can’t have too many accessories, but be cautious, do not over style your outfits. You want to make your outfit look more effortlessly cool. If in doubt, lose one thing before heading out the door.

GET THE LOOK: Roll-neck jumper by John Smedley | Solaro trench coat by DAKS | Vintage houndstooth trousers by Tommy Nutter | MTO Spectator Shoes by CARMINA Shoemaker

9. Pick a colour palette – and stick to it

Make life easier for yourself and get more wear out of your garments. When picking up new bits and pieces for your summer wardrobe try to have it falling into the same tonal group. By following this rule, you will be able to mix and match your suits with endless combinations. One simple tip: it is easier to pair natural and more muted colours opposed to stronger statement hues.

10. Break the rules!

The most important rule of them all… BREAK THE RULES! Rules are made to be broken and there are always exceptions. Follow your instinct, wear what you want, experiment and have fun with it. Essentially you should dress up to feel good. Do it for yourself and not others. Enjoy!

Follow @mathiaslefevre on Instagram.

Mathias le Fèvre’s ten rules of summer tailoring

There's not much that model, influencer and creative director Mathias le Fèvre doesn't know about style. Here he delivers his ten rules of summer tailoring – and because this is an English summer, there's plenty of transitional tips, too.

Published: Monday 24th August 2020

1. Stay cool with linens, silks and light cottons.