As collections for AW24 were revealed in Milan a few things became apparent: extravagance and drama are very much in, oversizing is becoming more and more, well, oversized, and a comfortable, modern take on classical tailoring shapes is still the preference of designers everywhere. Here is what you should be planning to pick up when it drops.
The latest offering by Silvia Venturini Fendi drew inspiration from the modern blending of city and country lifestyles and dress codes. Hallmarks of the house – leather and fur – took centre stage, alongside country staples such as waxed all-weather cloth and rugged wools.
Significant tribute to the Scottish kilt, itself a country classic, was seen in long pleated trousers and flowing pleated shorts; fisherman’s coats and waxed, waterproof jackets were reimagined with the Fendi “Double-F” emblem.
Those rustic outfits were presented side-by-side with tone-on-tone city looks in grey and navy and spectacular statement coats with flowing raglan sleeves and dramatic long silhouettes.
The styling of this show was the first thing which grabbed my attention. Each look which came down the catwalk was a cohesive, wearable outfit – this allowed for genuine consideration of how the clothes will look either together or with the rest of one’s wardrobe, and demonstrated further how the lifestyles of country and city (and the colours and fabrics traditionally intended for each) can exist in harmony. Sharp tailoring over fine-gauge knitted polos in mossy tones of green and leather Wellington boots worn with elegant suit jackets showed just how well the styles can work together.
As one would expect from a winter collection, the outerwear was without doubt the star. A massive teddy coat in chocolate shearling; a slouchy flight jacket in polished leather and lined with sumptuous fur; long leather topcoats with epic collars and immaculate straight lines – each piece was simultaneously powerful and functional; eye-catching but cosy.
The sparse concrete setting of the showroom and the modern electronic soundtrack (specially composed by an Italian artist, naturally) served to reinforce the collection’s focus on modernity, but the clothes themselves did most of the work there, with a perfect balance between traditional purpose and 21st century aesthetic. Start saving now, and get behind me in the queue for their release.
See more at fendi.com
The presentation by luxury Roman tailoring house Brioni took place in an extraordinary library in the heart of Milan’s shopping district.
The collection displayed a skilful balance between traditional suiting, ranging from full tonal looks in a gorgeous khaki green to more subtle, classic dark blues, and opulent casualwear.
Large chunky rollnecks layered under field jackets and wide-legged trousers in cream and brown showed that Brioni is just as capable of dressing the man for the weekend as for the boardroom.
Some sublime evening wear, with embellished shirting and ruffled texture to the jackets, and colourful outerwear in beautiful shaggy alpaca fabric rounded off a magnificent collection containing something for every winter moment.
See more at brioni.com
The specialty of Valstar is in jackets and coats and, although it has expanded into knitwear and accessories, it was in this field that its presentation truly excelled.
A huge array of simply incredible shearling and leather sat alongside wonderful long coats in cashmere and alpaca and padded jackets in suede lined with goose down.
Good quality outerwear, in rugged fabric and built to last, is the most important investment one can make in a winter wardrobe, and Valstar quite simply makes the best in the world.
See more at valstarmilano.com