Thankfully, the warmer, brighter months are upon us once again. The next few weeks will see evenings stretch and temperatures rise, enough to lift our spirits, but not quite enough to fully shed all the layers. The shade will still chill, and the nights will remain cool – we need to make sure we’re prepared not just for the sunshine beers we’ve been craving for the last six months, but the sudden departure of warmth when the sun goes down but our thirst stays up.
It may seem counterintuitive to reach for wool or cashmere garments to do so. In fact, the same properties which make wools our friends in the winter are what perform for us in the summer as well. Their thermo-regulating abilities will let heat out just while retaining warmth when needed; the oleophobic properties of the fibres mean the garments can be worn against the skin without needing to be constantly cleaned. Just leave each piece to air for a day or so between wears, and you’re good to go.
The type of knit also helps: finer fibres put together in a more open weave will allow more air circulation than your chunky winter rollnecks. When the yarns are finer they can be knitted together with more stitches per inch of cloth, resulting in clothes which are less bulky than winter versions. As Savile Row tailor Matthew Gonzalez explains: “High-gauge [finer] yarns made from cashmere or ultra-fine merino have a smoother handle and drape, making it an elegant option in warmer temperatures.
“This construction results in a fabric that is lighter and more breathable, allowing air to circulate freely across the skin, keeping you cool without sacrificing the garment’s silhouette.” Gonzalez offers his own range of made-to-measure summer knits from his atelier at No 13 Savile Row.
There are several options for how exactly to wear these magical fibres while the sun shines, and some great places to get them. It’s well-known that Scotland is home to high-quality knitwear, but perhaps less so great summer wardrobes.
Yet it was to Scotland that dunhill turned to create its latest cardigans in a 60/40 cashmere/linen blend for their Spring/Summer 26 collection, shown in Milan last year. The humble cardigan, especially when presented in a deep navy, may have a touch of formality to its reputation, but dunhill’s whimsical dog motifs in intarsia across the chest lighten things up a little (£1,050 from dunhill.com or Bourdon House).
Jacquemus Doppio cardigan in bright yellow merino
Luca Faloni hoodie in a light, high-gauge cashmere
French house Jacquemus takes an equally playful and far more vibrant look at this classic shape with its Doppio cardigan in bright yellow merino (£610), perfectly evoking the sunshine we all crave. Either will style well over a T-shirt and lightweight trousers of an evening, or even worn solo with shorts through the day.
For a more contemporary take on the lighter second layer, Luca Faloni offers a well-proportioned hoodie in a light, high-gauge cashmere (£390). Casually drape this over a simple white tee in the early morning to nail a dressed-down style.
It’ll then fit in your bag until the evening.
Blending cashmere and wool with other fine fibres is another popular way of bringing their soft handle and form-flattering movement to summer. The simple T-shirt is elevated by Giorgio Armani this summer with a mélange of cashmere, silk, and hemp, cleverly knitted to give a 3D texture (£840). The ribbed sleeves and hem give a refined finish, while the wider ribbing at the collar will elevate the look if the shirt is paired with a blazer.
Loro Piana Sergio sweater
Sunspel Sea Island cashmere polo knitwear
The addition of cashmere to Sea Island cotton, known to be the most luxurious in the world, has allowed English heritage brand Sunspel to make an even softer, high-performing version of its long-sleeve crewneck (£345). It walks the line between smart and casual effortlessly.
Another avenue to such versatility is the polo shirt. Worn alone it’s really just a ‘tee with a collar’, easily at home on the beach. Stick a light jacket on top with the collar popped, and suddenly you’re a louche style icon on his way to the summer event of the season. A Loro Piana polo in a rich burgundy version of its legendary Gift of Kings Merino (£2,690) will carry you between both looks. If you prefer your summer colours to be as bright as the weather, its Sergio sweater (£1,165) comes in a wonderfully icy blue with either a crew neck or v-collar. At 100% cashmere, the softness against the skin when worn alone is simply incredible.
Whatever your initial misgivings about knits in the summer may be, they’ll vanish when you wear your first piece. Flattering to the form, comfortable against the skin, and capable of handling the exasperating fluctuations of the weather – you’ll wonder why you weren’t already on board.
