Greatness isn’t achieved by standing still – and even the most storied of institutions are willing to move with the times. Centre Court was fitted with a roof in 2009; the Royal Opera House added a 400-seat auditorium in 2018; and the Dorchester renovated its entire ground floor last year, encompassing everything from the Promenade to the two bars to The Grill by Tom Booton.
For a hotel approaching its 100th birthday, the old girl is looking in fabulous shape. You will find joy from simply stepping into the foyer as hundreds of fresh flowers overwhelm you with their scent. Beyond the flowers, the tables of the promenade serve breakfast, dinner or afternoon tea, and off in the distance the Artist’s Bar glitters like a chandelier. Already the magic is tangible and you haven’t even checked in.
The Dorchester isn’t steeped in history – it’s part of history. American general and future President Dwight D Eisenhower made it his headquarters in 1942, the hotel’s sturdy construction making it one of the safest buildings in London. This reputation caused numerous luminaries to stay here during the Blitz – regular Cecil Beaton described the wartime clientele as “a mixed brew”. Doubtless they have improved in the interim.
How are the rooms?
The Mayfair Suite
We stayed in a Mayfair Suite, which proved just as luxurious as its name suggests. The decor is absolutely exquisite, a marriage of soft yellows and creamy whites that perfectly reflect the sunny disposition of the guests. (Any guest whose disposition isn’t sunny after checking into the Dorchester has my commiserations.) Admire the floral patterns on the lamps and chairs. Wrap your knuckles approvingly on the shiny mahogany dining table.
There are two widescreen TVs – living room and the bedroom – as well as an abundance of magazines and coffee table books. The latter include several photographic histories of the Queen, the work of David Hockey and Country Life’s best English gardens. Plus some Cecil Beaton, presumably to stop him moaning about the clientele in the afterlife. All guests are guaranteed to become at least 15% classier over the course of their stay, rising to 20% in the case of certain Americans.
Mayfair Suite
The floor alternates between carpet and marble – heated marble in the case of the bathroom. (The toilet seat is also heated, and rises automatically when you open the door. Be sure to say “thank you” as it goes up. Always wise to be polite to your toilet seat.) The bathroom also comes equipped with a marble bathtub, marble shower and a rose standing atop the marble sink. It’s the little touches.
And then we have the bed. Hand on heart, the Dorchester bed might be the most comfortable bed that I’ve ever had the pleasure of falling into. It’s a giant marshmallow of a thing whose mattress envelops your body, holding you in a soft yet firm embrace as though you were being caressed by a very gentle giant. (White rather than green.) Getting up in the morning is a veritable challenge; going to sleep an absolute joy.
What about the food and drink?
The Grill by Tom Booton
Yeah, dining isn’t a problem at the Dorchester. There are three restaurants, four if you count the Promenade which you probably should. You probably know Alain Ducasse, one of the most storied restaurants in London, quite possibly the world. (The galaxy! The universe!) There’s also Cantonese restaurant China Tang, designed to invoke the atmosphere of 1930s Shanghai. (I can’t say how successfully, having never visited 1930s Shanghai, but it certainly looks very cool.)
We dined at The Grill by Tom Booton, a big, handsome restaurant serving big, handsome British cuisine with more than a hint of a European accent. The interior is dark, glamorous and open: it’s a bit like dining in a very expensively decorated cavern and as someone who likes his personal space, I mean that as a compliment. Booton became executive chef at the Grill aged 26 and is the first chef with his name above the door in the Grill’s nearly 100-year history.
Richly deserved, too: the food is fantastic, be it a perfectly seasoned steak tartare or a huge sharing turbot that falls from the bone. Make sure to order the brioche as well, a delightfully decadent cloud of a thing that must be doused in garlic butter. General manager Mattia and his team will take fine care of you.
Vespar Bar
If you fancy an aperitif, nightcap, or just a few afternoon cocktails (no judgement here), two of the best bars in London are literally steps away. The Artists’ Bar is situated at the end of the Promenade, boasting a grand piano and a chandelier so large it must be close to exerting a gravitational pull. You needn’t be an artist to drink here, although you’ll certainly feel like one.
The Vesper Bar recently launched a new cocktail menu, Essentia, with each drink inspired by the sensory remembrances of the staff. So Turning Pages (Jack Daniel’s, cognac, white port, paper syrup, smoke) owes its gestation to an antique library; Sunkissed Summers (Seatrus gin, fennel, rhubarb ‘sea water’, aloe vera) a boat trip in Capri. This is a menu worth your time and exploration. However I believe it’s a legal requirement to order at least one Vesper martini every visit so you better arrive early.
Anything else to note?
Doing the hotel’s history and secrets justice would require a book rather than a review. Here’s one tip: if you fancy a swim, speak to one of the fantastic staff and they will secure you access to the pool at 45 Park Lane next door. Keep that between us.
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53 Park Ln, London W1K 1QA; The Dorchester
