Leaving aside the 2018 World Cup semifinal, Croatia is a pretty wonderful country, steeped in sun and history, its islands among the most beautiful in the world. There are 718 Croatian islands in total, although only 47 are inhabited – Male Srakane has a population of two. And of those 47, few are more popular than Hvar. (Population roughly 10,000.)
The main town of Hvar – helpfully also called Hvar – boasts a specular hillside fort and no shortage of bars for your evening’s entertainment. It’s a lively place, perfect for letting off some steam while still not being overrun with revellers. However sometimes you just want to chill. Reconnect with your nature and your inner zen. Drive half an hour to the other side of the island and check into Places Hotel by Valamar.
Valamar is a Croatian hotel chain that specialises in modern and luxurious properties across Croatia and Austria. Places is a hotel concept within that chain. (It’s stylised [PLACES] but the copy would look insane.) There are three Places hotels: in Hvar, Dalmacija and the Austrian alps, with an emphasis on nature and laidback living. Sea, sun, snow, depending on your destination.
The swimming pool at Places Hvar would be the highlight of most hotels: sizeable, sun-kissed, surrounded by loungers, served by a well-stocked bar. However most hotels aren’t thirty seconds walk from a sheltered beach and the sapphire waters of the Adriatic. Bliss comes in many guises and one of them is floating upon a warm tide, the green hills of Hvar rising up over the bay. Bask in the seawater, count the trees.
On the stroll down to the beach, you will pass an outdoor gym and several jacuzzis to destress after your workout. (Or just ditch the workout and go straight to the destressing.) Don’t fancy the gym? Then head for one of the outdoor tennis courts. Two white huts are available for spa treatment and massages, which I believe can also be taken outside beneath the trees. Zen? You’ll be so zen you’d struggle to spell the word.
Places is very keen that you’re never bored. There are tennis courts. Bikes to be rented. Yoga classes to attend. Evening DJ sets are commonplace, ditto morning dance sessions in the swimming pool. Who needs a newspaper when you can observe a load of people dancing somewhat stiltedly to Lady Gaga while you smash down a plate of scrambled eggs?
This is neat: every guest is given a smart bracelet with €25 daily credit. The sizable buffet breakfast is complimentary and includes fresh fruit juice (you blend it), Mediterranean and European dishes, plus a champagne and oyster table if you’re feeling properly baller. Lunch and dinner, however, you purchase via your bracelet – any credit that isn’t used up will be carried over to the following day. The menu features everything from pizza and burgers to sushi and seafood, as well as multiple daily specials. Oh and needless to say your credit can be topped up – you won’t starve if you blow your bracelet budget on the first night.
Accommodation comes in numerous forms. Our room in the main hotel was very comfortable and had a balcony overlooking the sea. Think sparse yet stylish, with all the necessaries: smart TV, a decent shower, and most crucially air conditioning. With rooms starting from €122, this is quite the bargain. Those seeking a life of luxury should consider one of the outdoor villas that come with a living room, kitchen and private outdoor swimming pool. Woof.
Stroll down to the beautiful town of Stari Grad, one of the oldest in Europe, and while away an afternoon wandering its narrow streets or enjoying a drink or two on the waterfront. You can take a boat across the bay if you’re feeling lazy although the walk is barely fifteen minutes. There are no shortage of good restaurants and some extremely cool shops here: check out the little art gallery Num Atelier, one of its miniature prints is currently hanging in my bathroom.
My friend and I were visiting the island on a stag weekend. We spent a couple of days painting the main town red – boat parties, beach bars – before reverting to the chill side of the island. Depending on your inclination, you may wish to skip the red paint and crack on with the chilling. If you're looking for somewhere to maximise your zen, this is most certainly the Places.
View on Instagram
Rooms start from €122; For more information, see Places Hotel by Valamar
