During World War II, precision and durability weren’t just desirable traits in a soldier’s gear — they were essential. Among the many tools issued to British troops, one humble yet crucial piece of equipment stood out: the military wristwatch.

In 1945, the British Ministry of Defence commissioned a special set of timepieces from twelve different Swiss manufacturers to create a standard-issue watch that could withstand the rigors of combat. These 12 watches, built to strict specifications and marked "W.W.W." short for “Wrist. Watch. Waterproof,” came to be known collectively as the ‘Dirty Dozen’ — not for their behavior, but for their elite status among military collectibles.

Today, these watches are revered by horology enthusiasts as a symbol of rugged craftsmanship, wartime innovation, and historical significance. They’re an evocative throwback to a time when tool watches were instruments rather than accessories.

Steven Collins, Watch Specialist at Cheffins Fine Art Auctioneers, tells us more: “The ‘Dirty Dozen’ is the name of a film from the 1960s, following 12 fictional soldiers during the Second World War. It is also, in watch collecting circles, the name given to a group of 12 watches worn by those who actually fought in it – specifically, British soldiers.

“Commander Alan Brooke, a British officer and advisor to Winston Churchill, was thought to be instrumental in developing the guidelines for a “perfect soldier’s watch” that would replace repurposed civilian watches on the battlefield.

“The British Ministry of Defence (MoD) requirements were very specific. They were to have a black dial with Arabic numerals, luminous hands, a subsidiary seconds register and a 15 jewel chronometer rated shockproof movement with an easy grip waterproof crown for use with gloves. The case too was to be waterproof, and the glass should be shatterproof.

"The MoD invited 13 leading Swiss watchmaking companies of the time – Buren, Cyma, Enicar, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex – to satisfy the contract. All but Enicar were eventually chosen and collectively the 12 remaining brands supplied over 150,000 wristwatches.

“While the larger companies such as Omega were able to produce considerable quantities on their own, the smaller companies did not have the capability to mass produce and many delivered less than 10,000, with one company, Grana, estimated by some as producing as little as 1,000.

“Today, the ability to collect all 12 brands is the ‘Holy Grail’ for watch collectors. It’s a number that sounds dangerously attainable, but it is much, much harder than it sounds. There are believed to be only about 20 complete collections in the world, with one collection recently selling at auction for nearly £30,000.

The engraving on the back of the watch consists of the letters WWW (watch, wrist, waterproof), followed by the military serial number and the standard civil service number.

At our upcoming Jewellery, Silver & Watches Sale on 1 May, we have two ‘Dirty Dozen’ available. Cyma’s offering (Lot 233) is a favourite of many due to the size of its stainless steel case, a rather contemporary 37mm. Inside is the mechanical Calibre 234. Around 20,000 pieces were made. Eterna’s watch (Lot 234), its stainless steel case a fraction smaller at 36mm and with the in-house Calibre 520, is among the rarest of the dozen, with only 5,000 or so pieces ever made.

“‘Dirty Dozen’ watches undoubtedly deserve a place in the horological hall of fame. This is your chance to own a piece of horological history.”

Cheffins will be offering two ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches at the next Jewellery, Silver & Watches Sale on 1st May. You can bid online, in person or on the phone. For more information, see cheffins.co.uk