I am delighted to present The New York Watch Auction: XI – our final live auction of 2024. Together with our team of international specialists, we’ve hunted the world to bring to market the very best collection of timepieces we could have hoped to curate.
As ever, Phillips’ commitment to offering the highest quality collectors’ timepieces across a broad range of brands, eras, and price points will be immediately apparent as you browse through the selection of 180 timepieces being offered.
To be sold during a dedicated session on Saturday 7 December, our auction features the second edition of TimeForArt in collaboration with Swiss Institute, a non-profit organisation dedicated to art education and the support of emerging international artists. Twenty-five unique timepieces were generously donated by leading watchmaking brands, whose timepieces were used as a blank canvas, free to create one-of-a-kind contemporary art pieces. One hundred percent of proceeds, including Phillips’ buyer’s premium, will benefit the Swiss Institute.
The sale also includes a chapter featuring watches from the collection of Ben Clymer, the president and founder of Hodinkee, with five lots spanning exceptional vintage and modern watches he acquired over the past decade.
What follows is a selection of my personal favorites from this live, flagship New York auction, taking place on 7 and 8 December at our Gallery at 432 Park Avenue in Manhattan.
Philippe Dufour Grande & Petite Sonnerie Sapphire Dial, Unique Piece
Lot 12
With just eight examples produced, the Grande & Petite Sonnerie is the rarest of all models ever made by Philippe Dufour, and was a milestone watch in the history of watchmaking.
In 1992, after three years of strenuous work, Philippe Dufour presented the world’s first Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch. Then, in 1999, Dufour introduced an exquisite sapphire dial option, so that the finishing of the movement is visible not only through the sapphire caseback, but the front of the dial as well.
Despite the extremely complex movement, Dufour made the watch easy to use. The crown is wound one way for the movement and the other way for the striking mechanism. Minute repeating is activated on demand by pressing a coaxial button within the crown. An incredibly complex sonnerie system chimes the hours and quarter hours at every hour and every quarter in grande sonnerie mode, and in petite sonnerie mode, it chimes the hours and quarters only on the hour with only the quarters at the quarter hour.
No other open-dial Dufour Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch has ever appeared on the market, and No. 07, the present watch, can be considered the most impressive example to exist.
The case architecture is Dufour’s most elaborate and coveted – that of the earliest examples from the first run beginning in 1992, with a solid, hinged caseback, and the switches that activate the sonnerie placed on the sides of the case, rather than switches on the bezel hidden by a hinged outer bezel.
Cased in sumptuous 18 karat white gold, the present watch is the only example ever made with an open dial and hinged caseback, making it absolutely unique.
Offered by the original owner who purchased it directly from Dufour in 2016, it is preserved in superb condition complete with its original certificate and presentation box.
Estimate: In excess of $2,000,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in 18 karat pink gold
Lot 115
The reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced by any brand and set the course for Patek Philippe’s dominance in the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking.
So ahead of its time was its design, Patek Philippe continues to use its timeless aesthetic as the foundation for a long line of highly sought after successor models including the references 2499, 3970, 5970, and today’s 5270.
Scholarship suggests that Patek Philippe produced approximately 281 examples of the reference. The majority in yellow gold, with pink gold examples just a small fraction of the total production.
The state of preservation of this example is impressive, clearly very sparingly worn over its 76-year lifespan. Its case retains the strong lug definition, beautifully brushed, and polished surfaces, and masculine appeal the reference is known for. Two strong and crisp hallmarks, one at the outer, lower edge of the lug and the second on the side of the case are perfectly defined giving further evidence to its remarkable condition.
Likewise, the silver dial shows no signs of ever having been restored, with only minor aging evident, and all of the raised, hard enamel printing for the signature, sub-dials and scales remains full and intact. Further enhancing its rarity, it is one of only eight pink gold examples known featuring an Italian calendar
Purchased by the consignor, an important European collector, in 2000, it returns to the market 24 years later in the identical state of preservation as when it first appeared. Since then, he fitted a lovely period correct, “chicco di riso”, or “grains of rice” bracelet in 18 karat rose gold, also included with the present lot.
Estimate: $800,000 - 1,600,000
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1P-010, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Lot 80
The present Nautilus is one of the most important, elusive, and impressive modern examples ever to appear on the market. In 2013, Patek Philippe presented a mysterious platinum Nautilus ref. 5711 that was never listed in the brand’s catalogue, never available for viewing and reserved for their best clients. It is believed that less than 50 examples were made.
While it could easily be mistaken for stainless steel, subtle details set it apart, showing just how exclusive and important the watch really is. Whereas the dial of the steel watch is blue/grey, the dial of the platinum model is vivid blue contrasting beautifully with the platinum case. The bevels on the case and bracelet are more prominent than on the steel version and like with all platinum Patek Philippe models, a small diamond on the case at 6 o’clock indicates the use of this precious metal.
What truly sets this example apart from all others is the coveted Tiffany & Co. signature on the dial. Only six examples of the 5711/1P-010 have ever appeared at auction, and the present example is the very first to appear with this Tiffany & Co. stamp. Elevating its importance, it is brand new, factory single-sealed, and offered from the collection of the original owner.
With only three examples of the ref. 5711/1P-010 believed to have ever been sold by Tiffany & Co., every box of rarity and condition is ticked for this incredibly rare platinum Nautilus – making it an ultimate trophy watch.
Estimate: $400,000 - 800,000
Patek Philippe ref. 530 Gilded Dial with Breguet Numerals
Lot 24
The reference 530 is one of the rarest and most sought after of all Patek Philippe vintage models, featuring an impressive 36.5mm diameter case. It was the largest time-only watch produced by the brand during the vintage (pre-1985) era, making it perfectly sized for modern tastes. It featured a concave bezel evolved from the iconic- and much smaller - reference 96, and was released in tandem with the flat, cylindrical bezel model reference 570.
Appearing for the first time at auction, it is a spectacular example fitted with a never-before-seen gilded (gold-colored) dial adorned with oversized Breguet numerals – both confirmed on the accompanying Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. It is interesting to note that many time only examples of the reference 530 often feature rare and possibly unique dial configurations, with these oversized models typically delivered to eastern European countries. Accordingly, this example, delivered in 1939, features a crisp and unusual hallmark on its caseback, where our team of specialists were able to discern its original delivery destination – Poland.
Beautifully preserved in outstanding overall condition, the stunning, champagne-colored dial retains all of its raised, hard enamel printing with absolutely no losses. The flawless dial and case’s remarkable overall state of preservation make this an exceptional example of one of the most important time-only vintage Patek Philippe timepieces.
Estimate: $100,000 - 200,000
Rolex “Padellone” Reference 8171 in stainless steel
Lot 33
Among my favorite Rolex watches of all time, the reference 8171 is lovingly nicknamed ‘Padellone’ – ‘large frying pan’ in Italian – owing to the outer curved shape of its dial. Featuring a large, 38 mm case, it is slightly larger than its waterproof Oyster sibling, the reference 6062.
Both references 8171 and 6062 were the only two vintage Rolex models featuring a moonphase indication. Only produced for a mere handful of years from 1949 to 1953, their rarity and utter beauty give them a mythical reputation and cult-like following amongst collectors.
Hailing from the collection of the renowned American entrepreneur and horological journalist, Ben Clymer, he shares the fascinating story of how he acquired it in our catalogue.
Since the reference 8171 was not fitted within an Oyster case, its lack of water resistance makes finding examples with well-preserved dials enormously challenging. Fitted with a beloved grené (grained) dial with yellow gold embossed hour markers, it is preserved in charming and unrestored condition.
Its case is exceptionally well-preserved, clearly displaying the Rolex coronet and case numbers on the case back – details lacking from many worn or over-polished examples. Most reference 8171s have undergone some restoration during their lifetime, yet this example remains untouched to this day, further enhancing its desirability and rarity.
Such an unrestored and premium steel example rarely appears on the market - a wonderful opportunity for the discerning connoisseur.
Estimate: $100,000 - 200,000
Biver Automatique Echoes of this Moment, Unique Piece for TimeForArt
Lot 84
An extraordinary, hand-crafted unique piece donated by Biver in support of TimeForArt, the Biver brand was launched in 2023 by the legendary watch industry visionary, Jean-Claude Biver and his son, Pierre Biver.
The present Automatique was created in collaboration with Swiss artist, Guillaume Ehinger. It is distinguished by a unique, handmade dial which is based on a series of Ehinger’s abstract paintings inspired by natural landscapes. The white gold dial plate is hand-engraved with organic ripples that recall the ever-changing surface of a lake, and then multiple layers of colored enamel are applied. Seeing it under light is a feast for the eyes – displaying a radiant, shimmering effect with changing shades of red and grey as light dances off its surface.
The second model created by the brand, the Automatique is fitted with the extremely well made and well-finished caliber JCB-003, with a 22-karat gold micro-rotor. This unique example’s rotor is hand-engraved with the watch’s name and artist’s signature, fitted within a stainless-steel case – a first for the model.
As with all 25 TimeForArt timepieces, 100% of the proceeds of its sale will benefit Swiss Institute.
Estimate: $60,000 - 120,000
To see all the lots, head to phillips.com
