As Raymond Weil approaches its 50th anniversary, the family-owned Geneva watchmaker could be forgiven for indulging in a little misty-eyed nostalgia. Instead, it’s chosen evolution over pure sentimentality. The result? The Toccata Heritage – a reimagined oval-shaped dress watch that bridges half a century of design with the demands of a contemporary audience.
Hot on the heels of the runaway success of the Millesime collection, first launched in 2023 and buoyed with multiple new references in the years hence, the Toccata Heritage builds on the same new-old-school vibe that has seen the Millesime lauded as one of the best affordable watches on the market right now.
Shaped watches are experiencing something of a moment. Whether it’s the indomitable rise of British brands Fears and Dennison; Piaget’s impressive resurgence; or, indeed, the launch of the Patek Philippe Cubitus, it would appear that the classic round watch is no longer the only consideration for collectors at any price point.
As for the oval case on the Toccata, a signature shape that has signposted the independent brand’s story since its formative years in the 1970s, the design team has smartly opted for something that is less egglike and instead more akin to an airplane window – a ‘square oval’, if you will. It’s a subtle thing, but it lifts this watch out of its vintage predilections and places it very much in the here and now. Raymond Weil also elected to use an oval-shaped crystal on the backside of the case to showcase movement within; a neat little nod that didn’t go unnoticed.
Toccata, deriving from the Latin toccare meaning “to touch” and typically referring to an instrumental composition in music that gives the player chance to show off their range of skills, is an appropriate name for a watch that flexes Raymond Weil’s horological muscles, but does so with (oh, go on then) a light touch. Every element of this collection, from the curve of the lugs to the gloss of the sunray dial, feels meticulously composed, like a melody honed through decades of practice. It’s all rather lovely.
There’s beauty, too, in the details. The redesigned shoulders – shorter, thinner, and polished to a soft sheen – lend the watch a contemporary elegance without sacrificing comfort. The new crown, engraved with the RW monogram, adds a subtle signature, while the calf leather straps with rolled edges recall archival models from the 1970s. Even the tongue buckle echoes the oval case shape, proof that nothing here was left to chance.
The mechanical model (Ref 2280) houses a manual-wind movement in a 37.7mm x 33mm oval case that’s a svelte 6.95mm in total depth. Ticking away inside is the slim hand-wound movement calibre RW4100 that is based on the workhorse Sellita SW210-1 movement. Running at a rate of 28,800 vibrations/hour and packing 45 hours of power reserve, it gets the job done with minimal fuss.
The dauphine hands – now counterweighted for symmetry – glide over dials finished in silver, midnight blue, or copper, depending on the reference. My personal favourite would be the copper-dialed variant that contrasts perfectly with the stainless steel case finished in rose gold PVD coating. Prices start from £1,295, a figure that feels positively anachronistic for something this thoughtfully executed.
For those who prefer the simplicity of quartz, the Toccata Heritage Ref 5280 offers a smaller 36mm x 31.5mm case, rendered in five variations that span stainless steel, rose gold PVD, and diamond-set options. The result is classic Raymond Weil: slim, elegant, and unashamedly timeless. Prices begin at £895.
CEO Elie Bernheim, grandson of founder Raymond Weil, sums it up best: “The Toccata Heritage is a journey through time — honouring the past, embracing the present, and moving to the rhythm of a legacy that continues to resonate across generations.” It’s a fitting overture as the brand readies itself for its milestone anniversary in 2026.
In an age of corporate conglomerates, Raymond Weil’s steadfast independence remains its greatest luxury. The Toccata Heritage doesn’t just celebrate that fact — it conducts it, note by note, into something beautifully enduring.
The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage starts from £895 (quartz) & £1,295 (mechanical). For more information, see raymond-weil.com
