There are certain rituals that make you feel like a proper grown up. Going for a wet shave. Writing a strongly worded email to your local council. Opting for a cheese course over dessert. Some are more enjoyable than others. Few can beat having a martini at Dukes Bar. It is peak adulting, in every sense.
The hotel has been one of the most celebrated in London since opening in 1908. Dukes is famously the spot where author Ian Fleming devised a new cocktail to be drunk by the protagonist of his debut novel, Casino Royale. Today, you can emulate James Bond by ordering a Vesper martini at any bar in the world but there’s something special about heading to the source, so to speak.
Other than the giant Union Jack over its entrance, Dukes is an extremely unobtrusive hotel, situated on a quiet corner of St James's Place. You can take yourself shopping after your visit. Actually, don't – the combination of legendarily strong cocktails and extremely expensive antique shops could prove disastrous. Nobody wants to wake up with a taxidermy moose and a suit of armour.
What’s the vibe?
The king’s front room, essentially. Portraits of very grand people look down at you from the walls. The fireplace is marble; the cigars in the wooden humidor are predominantly Cuban. The lack of music adds to the quiet, almost reverential atmosphere – do not expect to counter many stage parties. Yes, Dukes is a cocktail bar but spiritually it is far closer to the National Gallery, or Westminster Abbey, than Vodka Revolution (RIP).
This is not a place to slob out. Sportswear, shorts and T-shirts are forbidden, and while there’s no requirement to go full tuxedo, a jacket would certainly not make you feel overdressed. Maybe not a white one, though – otherwise you might get confused for staff.
What to order?
Head bartender Alessandro Palazzi doing his thing
A Woo Woo for me, a Strawberry Daquri for my friend – and don’t forget the little umbrella.
I’m kidding, I’m kidding. Obviously you order the martini. The only question is which martini. White Truffle? Beluga Gold Line? Weisshorn Glacier? Inevitably, I pretended to be James Bond and went for the Vesper. (I suspect many guys pretend to be James Bond and order the Vesper.) My friend is slightly less obvious than me and ordered a classic dirty.
The Dukes drinks trolley might be the most famous trolley in the world. (Not a heavily contested category, it must be said.) A white suited bartender – perhaps even the great Alessandro Palazzi himself – wheels it over to your table. He proceeds not only to build your requested drink but also explains the ingredients and general process.
Glass and spirits are stored in a freezer. While Bond’s martini includes the now-defunct Kina Lillet, Dukes uses a bespoke vermouth created by Sacred Spirits up the road in Highgate. You also have No.3 gin, Potacki vodka, bitters and an orange curl. That’s it. The result is a cocktail that makes everyone at least 30% classier when drinking it, while containing enough alcohol to make a university student weep. My friend's dirty martini came with a little pitcher of olive brine to be added according to taste.
The finished product
Ian Fleming tried a Vesper for real a few months after Casino Royale's publication and deemed it unpalatable, which is perhaps why the literary Bond never orders another one. All respect to Ian but I must disagree: my martini was quite simply the best I’ve ever tasted. It lasted more than an hour, too, due to the temperature and potency. Besides, draining it in two gulps would feel incredibly disrespectful to the craft, and quite possibly kill you.
Famously, there’s a two martini limit at Dukes – that’s how much booze goes into those bad boys. After one I felt extremely buzzed. Not in a bleary way but all light and floaty. I also had a strange urge to hit a casino and play high-stakes baccarat against a man wearing an eyepatch. Instead I went to a sports pub round the corner and watched a Crystal Palace match. Hey, there’s only so much sophistication one evening can endure.
What’s the damage?
Spoiler: it ain’t cheap. Our martinis retailed at £28.50 each and those were the least punchy options on the menu. That Beluga Gold Line will set you back £55. But while these martinis might cost twice as much as your average one, they will also take you twice as long to drink. Plus you can only order two of them so your ceiling is already set. Not bad value for a London institution. Forget Centre Court tickets – Wimbledon charges almost as much for strawberries and cream.
Anything else to note?
Supposedly there’s a hidden passage connecting Dukes to St James's Palace. Bear this in mind if your journey to the bathroom is taking longer than expected.
35 St. James’s Place, SW1A 1NY; Dukes London
