You could probably write a Succession-style screenplay on The City’s competing high-flying restaurant scene. Sushisamba, Duck & Waffle, City Social all battling it out with one another? I’d watch it. Maybe I’ll write it one day. Now there’s a new cast member in town. Lucky Cat is the latest skyscraper joint in the rivalry for the top hot-spot.
Much like the fictional Roy family, this is the fourth sibling in the restaurant’s clan. Lucky Cat is a small drop in Chef Gordon Ramsay’s empire; his culinary seed has been sown at a total of 94 restaurants globally including the USA, Thailand, Malaysia, France, Singapore and Dubai.
The height here is a key selling point. The ride-up is all part of the fun. Stomach flipping, ears popping, you emerge from mosaic-lined lift womb to house music and low-level murmurs of chatters. The panoramic views really are quite the spectacle (perhaps the best view of the Shard and the Thames I’ve ever seen). No matter where you’re standing, staring out these windows is fantastic.
It’s definitely photo-worthy. Absolutely insta-story worthy. Maybe even full grid if you manage to snap a good candid with your cocktail. My suggestion: head there for sunset and witness the changing skies of London. Cross your fingers it’s one of the three non-cloudy days of the year and sit back and absorb views that span as far as the London Eye.
Wagyu Nigiri
Sashimi Selection
The décor is from Russell Stage Studio, the team behind the Savoy, the Gainsborough and other luxury hotels. The design here isn’t traditional though, it’s bold – sexy even. It works hard to make sure the view takes centre stage. Dark finishes and subtle lighting maximise your attention outwards. The lighting is placed discreetly to give it an any-time-of-day, always-on atmosphere.
There are cats everywhere. (Presumably lucky ones.) Your chopsticks rest on them, the bar front is covered in them, they are standing upright near the DJ booth (yes there’s one of those) and you might find some feline friends in the toilets. I am almost surprised our host isn’t dressed as one.
The number of staff feels a little confusing at times but they look after us exceptionally well with personality and warmth. My mother, the queen of getting someone to confess their life story as they pop down a plate of padron peppers, makes friends with them all. She is absorbed by the view and incredibly happy with her margarita as I greet her at our window seat. She asks me if we should get a bottle of champagne (she’s already downed a glass before I’ve arrived). “Absolutely not,” I say.
I haven’t even checked the wine list but when I know the duck bao plate is listed at 34 pounds, I have a feeling the bottle of bubbly is a bit on the pricey side. I opt for a cocktail instead. The Chikyu from their signature menu sees wasabi infused gin paired with matcha syrup and pistachio liquor. Its sweet potion mixes many of my favourite culinary vices. It is delicious. Sweet, sour, and served in a teeny tiny coconut style bowl with a cute leaf poking out the top. Honestly, I am a sucker for novelty.
Chilean Sea Bass
Kimchi Fried Rice
You expect to pay a floor tax on any high building with a view, especially when the view is this good. The kyoto cucumber is moreish, the 5pc nigiri selection is sensational. Mum and I fight over who gets which. She lands the salmon, its perfect pale lines calling her name declaring rave review. I bargain back for the next bit of equally meaty slice on rice. The wagyu is delicately marbled and delicious.
We opt for the egg-fried rice, mixed at the table. We delight in our friendly sommelier, Nico, returning to assemble it as he tops up our recommended Clare Valley, Australian Riesling. Another chance for my mother to find out more about his childhood backstory. She’s thrilled. I like he’s not too busy recommending plonk to roll up his sleeves and get stuck in for this dish. Onsen egg oozes like caramel through the salty, spring-onion sprinkled rice. It’s delicious. As is the yuzu-tinged Chilean seabass we have with it. Then again, you’d really expect nothing less for a lump of fish at 52 pounds a pop.
A meal a la carte can very easily set you back £200 once you factor in wine and cocktails, but the restaurant offers fixed price brunch, lunch and dinner set menus for set prices if you’re looking to curb your spending. It’s a bit of a trip, in more ways than one, but a hoot nonetheless. Grab the cat by the tail and enjoy yourself.
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22 Bishopsgate, City of London, London EC2N 4BQ; Lucky Cat
