The Grill at McQueen is a meat lover's paradise

If you’ve ever been to the US, you have probably encountered Denny’s, famous for its Grand Slam American breakfasts. It’s an instantly recognisable brand for its stack ’em high and sell ’em fast approach. Bizarre, then, that the King of Cool, Steve McQueen, was reportedly a big fan of its comfort food.

But the Shoreditch bar and restaurant that bears his name is fortunately a world away from the ubiquitous American chain. McQueen is located literally on the dividing line between trendy Shoreditch and happening Hackney. The stylish establishment is liberally peppered with iconic images from his movies including The Great Escape, Bullitt, and The Thomas Crown Affair. (Thankfully, there are no stomach-churning images from Papillon.)

McQueen is the brainchild of Northern Ireland-born entrepreneur Dezzi McCausland. McCausland came to London 20 years ago, and has built up a reputation for his high-end venues. He once owned and ran the former Pinstripe Club – infamous for being at the centre of 1960s Profumo affair involving a prominent government minister and call girl Christine Keeler. Under McCausland’s stewardship it was known as Kingly Club, and regularly hosted the royalty of stage, music and the fashion world.

McQueen is the third venture by McCausland – and has brought Kingly’s cool to the heart of Shoreditch. Recently, with the guidance of two former Hawksmoor chefs – Richard Sandiford who created a whole new menu and Richard James, who is the new head chef – McCausland rebranded the restaurant as ‘The Grill at McQueen’.

To accompany me to my meal, I invited a member of the House of Lords – a man of impeccable taste, a memory for the Profumo affair, a fan of Steve McQueen, and a lover of good wine and fine food.

Unsurprisingly, the Grill does what it says on the tin: if you don’t like meat, this is the time to make your great escape. Thankfully, we love it – in abundance.

We decided to forgo the offer of ‘The Dusty Knuckle’ sourdough bread, though it looked rather tasty. The noble lord opted for the classic steak tartare on sourdough toast. Watching him devour it with no mercy, I genuinely believe he could eat an entire heifer raw. He declared it magnificent.

The atmosphere and décor has the feel of an up-market Pall Mall gentlemen’s club but without the formalities

I was torn between the crispy lamb sweetbreads with sauce gribiche, and the ox cheek and kidney pithivier with celeriac and horseradish purée. With a little persuasion from the restaurant manager, I opted for the latter. It was everything I expected and more – both flavoursome and indulgently rich.

My dining partner, with his predilection for meat with only the horns and hooves removed, had no problem choosing a main from the five steak options on the menu – a rare fillet steak from the grill with no garnish or sauce. The triple-cooked chips, however, proved too much of a temptation to pass.

I ordered from the four further non-steak choices, and picked the caramelised chicory and roquefort gratin. Neither of us were disappointed – and for a diner who never normally chooses a vegetarian option, the dish impressed from start to not-quite-able-to finish.

The meal was finished off with a flame-hot americano for his lordship and a compulsory amaretto for myself.

I could not fault the service at the Grill, and the atmosphere and décor has the feel of an up-market Pall Mall gentlemen’s club but without the formalities. The place was busy and it was a Thursday, which also happens to be burlesque night at McQueen.

I was tempted to stay on, but my ennobled colleague remembered all too well the Profumo affair, so we decided to bow out early.

The Grill at McQueen, 55-61 Tabernacle St, EC2A 4AA. For more info, see mcqueen-shoreditch.co.uk