Smart casual is the new norm. Just as pinstripes and ties have been banished from most offices, old-school fine dining is rapidly becoming a thing of the past.
Roux at the Landau is undeniably a British institution, but fortunately it’s not afraid to move with the times. After a three-month refurbishment, gone are the starched white-linen table cloths, replaced by modern wooden tables with metal studded rims. The designers from David Collins Studio have also updated the iconic dining space with the addition of an oval dining counter taking pride of place in the centre of the room.
The new pared-back menu follows this modernising suit. It’s less formal, and allows for whatever experience you’re after. Light snack of San Daniele prosciutto at the counter? You got it. Five-course tasting menu with matching wines – with an unparalleled view of All Souls Langham Place? No problem, sir.
Naturally, we opted for the menu. The first course was actually two courses – rolls of silky prosciutto and fleshy kalamata olives brought a Mediterranean feel, while fresh Cornish crab was served with a ’slaw-like Marie Rose sauce. A chalk-dry Silvaner from Hans Wirsching was a fine partner for the latter.
The laconically named ‘ravioli’ was so much more, the pasta complemented by crispy-skinned chicken, fresh peas and a drinkable jus
The laconically named ‘ravioli’ was so much more, the pasta complemented by crispy-skinned chicken, fresh peas and a drinkable jus. A sublime Morey-Saint-Denis burgundy was served – via Coravin – for actual drinking.
Next up, you could agonise between a creamy turbot and a sizeable slab of beef fillet. Or better, do what we did, and order one of each to share. An appropriately meaty Château La Garde claret was a fine stable mate.
And do save room for your sweet. Made by pastry chef Andrew Gravett, the desserts are probably the most ambitious courses – and ensure you leave with a smile on your face.
Roux at The Landau, 1C Portland Place, W1B 1JA. For more information, see rouxatthelandau.com
Artesian
The Artesian is the ultimate ‘destination bar’. With its plush purple sofas, grand chandeliers and opulent orchids, it’s a genuinely special place to be – and, more importantly, drink.
On arrival, you’re offered a liquid amuse-bouche while you pore over the menu. Ours was a sour frosé – a guilty pleasure and perfect palate cleanser to make way for the main event. The Artesian has always been about the cocktails – and there’s good reason it won ‘best bar in the world’ four years on the trot.
The concept is essentially mixology by way of a hive mind
The brand-new list is as innovative as you’d expect from head bartender Remy Savage, who is renowned for his playful approach. The concept is essentially mixology by way of a hive mind. Each creation is inspired by a life-defining moment – the flavours and scents inspired by the results from hundreds of customer surveys.
For example, ‘You turned 30’ is a warming combination of Glenfiddich 15 year old, sauternes, orange wine and isolated tannins. It certainly feels like a coming-of-age drink, as sophisticated as the surroundings. But I can’t claim it was evocative of my 30th birthday – not enough Jägermeister. (Fortunately.)
Artesian, 1C Portland Pl, Marylebone, London W1B 1JA. For more information, see artesian-bar.co.uk