The February 2022 edition of London Fashion Week has just wrapped up, and was the usual hectic blend of catwalk shows, painfully cool champagne receptions and avant-garde street style.
Storm Eunice did her best to blow the festival off course, but the fashion crowd are a committed bunch.
(Even if that commitment is sometimes focussed on the after parties. And no – we're absolutely not judging.)
A little bit of wind wasn’t about to stop one of the most important fashion events of the year, and brands and consumers alike braved the elements to discover and celebrate what we have to look forward to when Autumn 2022 rolls around.
Here are a few highlights to help you plan your wardrobe additions for the year ahead.
Erdem Moralioglu MBE launched his eponymous brand in 2005, but only branched out into menswear last year. The new collection is inspired by underground photographers of the late 1930s, and their attitudes to a more liberal expression of identity and self.
Shapes are large and bold, designed for comfort to meet style and able to be worn from daytime to evening with no need to change.
Muted grey tailoring sat alongside more vibrant and colourful coats which will bring light as well as warmth to the grey months at the end of the year.
Its Mayfair flagship store will certainly be busy when these pieces hit the shelves.
Tiger of Sweden
One of my favourite collections of the SS22 shows last September was by Tiger of Sweden, and they’ve come up with another cracker this time round.
More voluminous cuts are this time presented in warm, natural tones of brown and burgundy. The shapes of the garments are perfect for the modern trend towards super-relaxed tailoring, and allow the wearer to embrace the balance between tradition and progression.
Plenty of soft knits and cosy coats pair with the tailoring to set you up for weekend wear. This is a collection which really has something for everyone.
Dublin-born Robyn Lynch has packed a lot into the four years since launching her label, and has already built a strong partnership with sportswear juggernauts Columbia.
Their relationship sees Robyn create fresh new work by up-cycling deadstock from Columbia’s past collections, and has already drawn praise from around the world.
The new collection sees the designer return to her homeland for the inspiration behind the cabling on chunky, oversized knits in warm natural tones, while the outerwear in bright blues and yellows will keep you warm, dry and in full view of your adoring public.
Looks seen here are perfect for a winter’s weekend: they’ll keep you dry on the way to the pub, and cosy and stylish while inside.
Steven Stokey-Daley shot to fame when a certain Harry Styles wore his 2020 collection in the video for Golden and has gone from strength to strength in the short time since.
His 1970s-inspired patterns and prints have become increasingly popular – the mohair/lambswool Fair Isle pattern sweater vests flew off the shelves almost as soon as they arrived this winter – and the drape and room of his shirts makes them enormously comfortable.
Flowing coats with magnificently wide lapels seen in the AW22 offering will make a statement as you layer them over your winter outfits, and bring a sense of confidence and daring to your look that is all too rare nowadays.
Arguably the most accomplished collection of the week was that of the impressively practical Rue Agthonis. Shanghai-born, New York-trained designer Syl draws her inspiration from the chic looks of the rock stars of the 1970s, and the AW22 collection has all the colour and attitude you would expect of them.
This is entirely a womenswear brand, with sharply tailored jackets which blend powerful, bright colours with subtly weaved texture, and understated dresses embellished with metal studs. One of the youngest labels on the schedule this year, but one that will surely be a big name in very short order.
Another of my favourites from the September shows was Kaushik Velendra, who has followed up with another excellent collection.
The sumptuous drape which is now a trademark of this exciting young tailor was in evidence once again, and the new colour palette of greens, golds and silvers added a new opulence to what was already a pretty dramatic style.
The atelier has recently been upgraded from the previous studio on Hoxton Square to a stunning property on Mayfair’s Upper Brook Street – best make your appointment soon, before the quality of this collection sees the diary fill up completely.