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For decades, the watch world’s loudest conversations have echoed with names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. These brands still dominate headlines and wrists, but behind the scenes, a quieter revolution has been taking place. Collectors are increasingly drawn to independent watchmakers, niche brands that craft exceptional watches with personality, ingenuity, and an obsessive devotion to detail.
This shift hasn’t happened in isolation. Broader consumer trends, especially the growing desire for personalisation and exclusivity, have fuelled the rise of independents.
Today’s collector doesn’t just want a status symbol; they want a story, a connection, something only a handful of others might own. And while the big players remain central to the industry, the surge of interest in independent brands marks one of the most exciting movements in modern horology.
The team at online auction platform Watch Collecting break down five of the best independent brands...
FP Journe
Francois-Paul Journe is the undisputed poster child of the independent watch scene. After launching his eponymous brand in 1999 with the Tourbillon Souverain, he’s built a following that borders on cult-like. Collectors revere Journe’s commitment to the craft and unique aesthetics, and that enthusiasm is reflected in pre-owned prices. In fact, a 1993 Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoire d'Égalité, only the second watch Journe ever made, sold for a staggering $8.4 million in 2023, becoming the most expensive wristwatch by an independent maker ever sold at auction. Few brands command this level of reverence.
Greubel Forsey
If you’ve clocked Mark Zuckerberg’s wrist game recently, you might be familiar with Greubel Forsey. The Meta founder has been spotted sporting the Hand Made 1—a watch whose name tells you everything you need to know. An astonishing 95% of its components are painstakingly crafted and finished by hand. Founders Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, both alumni of high-end movement maker Renaud & Papi, launched the brand in 2004 and have spent the last two decades quietly building one of horology’s most respected maisons. Its watches are architectural, complex, immaculately finished and eye-wateringly expensive.
Laurent Ferrier
With 37 years at Patek Philippe and a racing pedigree that includes a podium finish at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, Laurent Ferrier brings an enviable background to his namesake brand. A third-generation watchmaker, Ferrier launched his company in 2010 with a bang: his very first piece won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (the Oscars of watchmaking). Since then, the brand has been known for watches that blend classical elegance with technical expertise (the micro rotor movement design is truly special).
H Moser & Cie
Most of the luxury watch world tends to play it safe, but H. Moser & Cie. isn’t afraid to break ranks. The brand has gained a reputation for its tongue-in-cheek designs, including a 2017 model with a case made from actual Swiss cheese and a 2021 release that looked strikingly similar to an Apple Watch - but, of course, without a battery in sight.
These playful creations show a clear willingness to poke fun at the industry, all while pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. However, the humour never comes at the expense of quality. Since its relaunch in 2005, Moser has built a strong reputation for combining minimalist aesthetics with impressive technical innovation. Beneath the irreverence, the brand delivers some of the most serious watchmaking in the independent scene.
MB&F
Max Büsser’s MB&F doesn’t just make watches, it builds horological sculptures. Since 2005, the brand has shattered design conventions with its ‘Horological Machines’, blending sci-fi aesthetics with mechanical excellence. From the jellyfish-like HM7 ‘Aquapod’ to the Bulldog-inspired HM10, these creations completely defy what people have come to expect in the world of high-end watchmaking. Yet even amidst the whimsical design, MB&F’s creations are masterclasses in engineering and finishing, challenging what a wristwatch can be.
Interested in watch collecting?
Watch Collecting is proud to support the growing world of independent watchmaking, regularly listing rare and sought-after pieces from some of the most exciting names in horology. These appear alongside offerings from the major brands, giving collectors access to a broad and carefully curated selection. Whether you're after something classic or cutting-edge, Watch Collecting offers a global online auction platform designed for enthusiasts and serious collectors alike.
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