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Five of the best two-tone watches

This year, bi-metal watches are all the rage, and it’s totally understandable – why have just one colour when there’s the option for more? Adrian Hailwood presents the best two-tone timepieces of the hour

Adrian Hailwood

by Adrian Hailwood

Rolex Sky Dweller Steel and Gold

When the SkyDweller launched in 2012 it was only available in precious metal. Sadly, this meant that Rolex’s most complex movement was restricted to those with the strength of wrist, personality and wallet to carry off such a loud, weighty and expensive watch. This year’s launch softens the look considerably while providing the same value proposition that makes the bi-metal Datejust such a pre-owned favourite – the two-tone bracelet model being just over a third of the price of the all-gold...

Rolex Sea Dweller Steel and Gold

Such complications from Rolex are rare so it is good to see it being made more attainable, with the gold acting as a signifier of the quality within. If you think there is a stainless-steel model, think again. Rolex will insist on a white gold bezel, they have standards after all. For more info, see Rolex 

Tudor Black Bay Steel and Gold

What is good enough for Rolex is good enough for Tudor and where better to position two-tone within the range than in that Swiss army knife collection – the Black Bay. Adding yet another variant to the range the Black Bay Steel and Gold looks rugged enough to overwhelm any dressy pretention; definitely sport with a touch of luxe...

Tudor Black Bay Steel and Gold

To add to its divisiveness, we have a date window in the range for the first time to give the brand forums something else to argue over. If you want to wear your bi-metal choice more subtly, the strap model has only the bezel edge and crown to give it away under the cuff. For more info, see Tudor

Montblanc 1858 Bronze and Steel

‘All that glitters is not gold’, sometimes it is bronze. Montblanc have combined two recent trends to produce a two-tone watch, but using bronze as the ‘other metal’. The 1858 collection is a move to embrace the Minerva watchmaking history that sits behind the Montblanc name on the dial. The use of bronze is a visual trope to build age into the new watch and coupled with the cognac-coloured calfskin strap it is remarkably effective...

Montblanc 1858 Bronze and Steel

Vintage watch collectors may even be tempted to strip the nickel plating from their older watches to expose the brass and emulate the look. Unlike the gold used in the other watches on this list, Montblanc’s bronze will evolve over time leaving no doubt that they are adding character, not bling to the case.For more info, see Montblanc

Jaquet Droz SW Steel and Red gold

The Jaquet Droz SW collection is the epitome of a dress watch using two-tone to add a more sports feel. For a brand known for their exotic dials and art pieces, turning the Grande Seconde into a sports watch might seem incongruous, but the use of rose rather than yellow gold allows them to get away with it...

Jaquet Droz SW Steel and Red gold

Strangely, in comparison to the previous brands, the two-tone model seems sportier than the all steel; the pop of colour bringing attention to the case aesthetic. For more info, see Jaquet Droz

Omega Aqua Terra Steel and Rose Gold

The Aqua Terra is a curious part of Omega’s line-up. Far more elegant than its dive cousins, the Professional and Planet Ocean, and yet with ample water resistance and legibility should you want to get it wet, the watch has much in common with the Seamasters of the 1950s and 1960s...

Omega Aqua Terra Steel and Rose Gold

 Unlike the Tudor which wears its gold like a medallion against a hairy chest, the rose gold of the Omega adds to the refined air. The planking-effect of the dial is suggestive of yachting but with this on your wrist you are definitely captain rather than crew. For more info, see Omega 

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Published: Wednesday 13th June 2018

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