The 1960s were responsible for a great many things. A decade that began in the thrall of a prim and proper mid-century mentality embraced technological advancement and counterculture, ending up with households watching man walking on the moon, soundtracked by Jimi Hendrix and The Doors.
But in the Swinging Sixties, human beings didn’t only go up, up and away to seek a new perspective on the planet we inhabit; they also plumbed the depths of the sea, too. Professional watches were created for astronauts, but also for scuba divers. And while dive watches are now commonplace on the wrists of watch lovers all over the world (regardless of if they’ve ever strapped on an aqualung) in 1965 there were only a few on the market.
Since Rolex’s first waterproof watch debuted in 1926, they – along with Omega, Blancpain, Zodiac and more – had introduced various models that could survive more than just a swim. But in the 1960s, diving itself became more advanced, divers wanted watches that could follow them a hundred metres or more on dives, and – so the story goes – a letter from one such person to Japanese watchmaker Seiko implored them to create something more robust, more reliable, and able to withstand the pressures of the deep.
Seiko’s response was the 62MAS, which became both Japan’s first professional dive watch and an immediate cult classic. Its looks, wearability, slim rotating bezel and durability won it legions of fans on original release, and even more with the Diver’s 1965 Reinterpretation, released as part of the superb Prospex line to celebrate its 55th anniversary in 2020, which is one of the modern era’s defining ‘desk divers’ and an absolute steal for a little over £1,000 (which you can take my word for, given I own and love the silver-dial SPB213 variant).
Less talked-about – but still important in the canon – is the 1968 Diver, and its own 1968 Reinterpretation released in 2021. And to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Seiko’s original diver, the brand has created three special, limited-edition pieces that use both of the above as jumping-off points.
Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s 60th Anniversary
Last year, the 1965 Diver’s Reinterpretation series got a gentle update – updated numeral styling and on the bezel; the date window made circular and moved to between 4 and 5 o’clock, and the brand’s 6R55 movement that allows for a power reserve of three days. The first of the three pieces, the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s 60th Anniversary, builds on these changes but adds a classic textured dial in the Seiko and Grand Seiko, meant to evoke the iconic Great Wave woodblock print by artist Hokusai.
£1,300, limited to 6,000 pieces; seikoboutique.co.uk
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary
The Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary (SPB509) updates the 1968 Reinterpretation in a few more ways: another lush textured dial, this time in blue, but more significantly a GMT function powered by one of Seiko’s patented hi-beat movements. Interestingly, it’s actually easy to miss unless you look closely: the bezel – usually adorned with 24-hour numerals on a GMT – still retains the 60-minute numerals and functionality of a regular diver, with the 24-hour numerals instead placed on a the chapter ring inside the sapphire crystal, and an orange GMT hand that points to them – an innovative way to make a travel watch that’s still first and foremost a professional diver.
£1,600, limited to 6,000 pieces; seikoboutique.co.uk
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 'Shinkai' 60th Anniversary
Lastly, there’s the Prospex Marinemaster 'Shinkai' 60th Anniversary 600m Saturation Diver (SLA081), an unapologetically rugged update of the Marinemaster in titanium, with another textured blue dial, and created by Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio to balance stunning looks with properly robust specs: the 8L45 movement powers another three-day power reserve, while the watch delivers a whopping 600 metres of water resistance.
£4,300, limited to 600 piece; seikoboutique.co.uk
Released just before Watches & Wonders (and with Seiko generally having a large range across multiple collections), this trio of updated limited editions may not steal headlines.
But every few years, Seiko’s deep dives into its own mid-century heritage has yielded some classic tributes to an iconic time in the history of the brand, and in human history, too.
Each of the above, whether or not they ever accompany you on a dive, are the chance to own a piece of that history.
