Blancpain
Fifty Fathoms 42mm
There are a number of pretenders to the throne of the ‘world’s first dive watch’. In 1926, Rolex patented the first ever waterproof watch case, the Oyster; in 1932 the Omega Marine, with a water-resistance slipcase, was released for professional use; and in 1936 the Panerai Radiomir 2533 was created in partnership with the Royal Italian Navy for its diving force. Each played their part in the technological development of this specialist timepiece, but the true originator of the modern dive watch as we know it is the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.
Created in 1953, having worked with the French Navy on a custom model, the Fifty Fathoms was not only waterproof but the first purpose-built dive watch to feature a unidirectional rotating bezel topped with large minute markings to ensure divers knew how long they had been underwater and therefore how much oxygen they had left in their tanks. Much of the dive watch’s technical and design principles are indebted to the Fifty Fathoms.
To celebrate its 70th anniversary, last year Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms ‘Act 1’, a stainless steel rendition of its iconic model in a new 42mm sizing – down from the typical 45mm. In 2024, the brand has doubled down on this more compact case size with several new dial and material combinations: sunburst black or blue, finished in either 18k rose gold or grade 23 titanium.
The new proportions on the 42mm Fifty Fathoms are really very pleasing, while the change from a stepped dial to a more seamless flat dial makes for a minimalist look. The metal surrounds added to the applied Arabic numerals and indices, filled with lume, are also a concession to modern watchmaking design that enhances the overall aesthetic. There’s a choice of matching-colour sail-canvas, NATO or tropic-texture rubber straps (inspired by the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms), as well as a bracelet option for the titanium model.
Certina
DS SUPER PH1000M STC
If you’re reading this article, the chances are you don’t need more of an excuse to buy a dive watch. But if you do, then how about helping to save sea turtles?
That’s what you’ll be doing when you purchase Certina’s new DS SUPER PH1000M STC.
Certina has been working with the non-profit Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC) since 2017 to help protect sea turtles and their natural environments.
Inspired by the historic DS SUPER PH1000M from 1970, this eye-catching homage boasts an iridescent blue dial with orange accents and luminous indexes.
Naturally, it comes fully loaded with the epic Powermatic 80 movement – so you can count on an 80-hour power reserve and NivachronTM balance spring.
And it’s readymade for serious divers with its helium outlet valve and unidirectional bezel with aluminium ring. The latter is equipped with a security system whereby the bezel must be pushed against the case in order to rotate – keeping both you and the sea turtles safe.
See more at certina.co.uk
Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Offshore Diver
A super-luxe take on the traditionally utilitarian dive watch, the £27,000 Royal Oak Offshore Diver would be an ideal choice for, say, the more adventurous jet setter.
The Offshore Diver boldly takes the original format of the classic 1970s’ Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak to new bounds.
Highlights include a unidirectional internal diver’s timing bezel, operated via the 10 o’clock crown; a quick-change ‘click and release’ strap system; and an instant-jumping date; and a sapphire caseback which proudly displays the skilfully finished and polished self-winding movement within.
We love the khaki green version complete with 'méga tapisserie' pattern, pink-gold applied hour-markers, and luminescent-coated hands.
Rolex
Oyster Perpetual Deepsea
The Challenge version of Rolex’s Deepsea holds the record for deepest water-resistant watch ever produced with a guaranteed rating of 11,000m. It was launched two years ago in partnership with filmmaker/deep-sea explorer/Rolex brand-ambassador James Cameron, who field tested a prototype version of the Challenge by strapping it to the exterior of his submersible during his historic 10,908m dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench – Earth’s deepest known point.
Now, unless you're a Titanic-obsessed Hollywood director, the chances are you won't require anything quite so capable. But for serious divers, the 'standard' Deepsea is certainly a cut above the competition. It's guaranteed to be waterproof to a depth of 3,900 metres (12,800 feet), and at its launch in 2008, inaugurated the Ringlock system – a unique case architecture that allows it to withstand the pressure exerted at this extreme depth.
At this year’s Watches & Wonders, Rolex released a new version of the Deepsea in 18ct yellow gold sporting a graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic as well as a blue lacquer dial bearing the name ‘DEEPSEA’ in powdered yellow.
Breitling
Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver
Breitling’s Superocean range dates back to the 1950s – the heyday of ocean exploration. In 1957, the Swiss watchmaker launched two ground-breaking diving watches: a time-only diver (Ref. 1004) and a chronograph (Ref. 807). Both had an impressive 200m water resistance, as well as an avant garde design which distinguished them from more utilitarian competition.
The now legendary collection continues to evolve to this day with everything from colourful rainbow-dial editions to hardcore professional deep-sea tools.
In the latter camp comes the Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver, a new powerhouse with a water resistance of up to (or should that be ‘down to’?) 1,000m. This feather-light titanium model comes in stealthy green or black camouflage, each paired with matching ceramic inlays.
The new model boasts a bidirectional rotating bezel with a patented safety lock, guarding against unintended adjustments – and the soft-iron inner case is specially designed to shield the watch from any unwanted magnetic interference. Choose between a colour-matched rubber strap or a sleek titanium bracelet.
See more at breitling.com
Panerai
Submersible Goldtech
Panerai’s Submersible Goldtech builds on the sort of gentrified military cool styling that helped (re)make Panerai into one of modern horology’s top brands.
Presented in Panerai’s trademark protected red-gold Goldtech (an alloy comprising gold, copper and platinum), the brand’s characteristic running seconds sub-dial and ‘Luminor’-style trigger crown-guard system sit at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions respectively.
While it’s arguably better suited to Saint-Tropez’s Le Club 55 than Scotland’s North Sea, there’s no doubting its sea-faring credentials.
Thanks to its high level of corrosion resistance, gold is, in fact, a technically excellent material for a dive watch. And looks mighty fine, too.
Tudor
Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925
With its 925 silver case, Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is an anomaly in dive watches, not to mention modern wristwatches in general.
While historically used in pocket watches, sterling silver has seldom found use in wristwatches thanks to the industrialisation of stainless steel in the early 20th century.
The particular mix of metals used for the Fifty-Eight 925’s silver alloy is a closely guarded Tudor secret, but it's designed not to tarnish as readily as traditional silver.
This Black Bay was also the first to include an exhibition caseback. It’s a beauty whichever way you flip it.
Seiko
Prospex 1965 Revival Diver’s 3-Day 300M SPB451J1
A direct continuation of the brand’s inaugural diver’s watch – the 62MAS, launched back in 1965 – Seiko’s SPB451 is a handsome and well-rounded scuba watch offering.
It’s one appropriate for both the high seas and everyday terra firma alike. It boasts a relatively slimline 40mm diameter and 13mm thickness, alongside a blue dial and bezel which, appropriately, evoke the hue of the world’s oceans.
A date window has been subtly nestled between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions so as to cause minimal interruption to the dial’s overall layout and symmetry.
With a three-day power reserve, Seiko’s in-house automatic calibre 6R55 drives the watch.
Tissot
Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80
Forming a contemporary part of Tissot’s decades-established Seastar collection, the Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 is the biggest of the current lot at 46mm.
Recalling its sub-aquatic roots, the dial has an engraved wave-like pattern. Other notable design elements include 6 o’clock centred date indication; Tissot ‘T’ shaped seconds hand with ‘lollipop’ tip; broad and generously lumed spear-tipped hour / minute hands; ceramic bezel; and a black PVD steel case.
Catering to most wrists, the current Seastar collection includes pieces that are a more diminutive 36mm. There’s a black and blue version, but this colourway is our fave.
Oris
Aquis Depth Gauge
As its name suggests, Oris’ Aquis Depth Gauge boasts a title-worthy complication: a Boyle-Mariotte capillary depth gauge, to be exact.
Essentially, this is a conduit ringing the dial cut into the edge of the watch’s sapphire crystal. It fills with water via an aperture at 12 o’clock when submerged, compressing and decompressing the air within at a rate proportional to your current depth, which, when read against a watermark chapter ring, indicates the user’s depth. Simples.
A gasket around the crystal prevents water from entering the rest of the watch and helps ensure the watch’s impressive 50 bar / 500m water resistance rating. At 46mm, it’s big and clever.
Omega
Seamaster PloProf 1200m
Omega’s PloProf is something of a folk hero in the dive watch space, manufactured with input from legendary French dive company COMEX and seen on the wetsuit-clad wrist of Jacques Cousteau.
Last year, as a part of the Seamaster collection’s 75th anniversary, came a new version with sun-brush ‘Summer Blue’ dial and O-Megasteel construction.
Aside from a brighter lustre, O-Megasteel offers approximately 50% greater strength and durability than that of conventional steel.
With its 1,200m level of water resistance, monobloc case, helium escape valve, screw-crown guard system, ‘southpaw’ crown configuration and a button-released rotating bezel, the PloProf’s diver specs are loud and proud.
Bulova
Oceanographer GMT
Offering remarkable bang for your buck at just over a grand, the Oceanographer GMT is a strong contender for the ideal ‘go anywhere’ mechanical-watch.
In a loose throwback design which draws inspiration from Bulova’s extensive archives, the Oceanographer has been updated to include a GMT function and is watertight to a devilish depth of 666 feet.
The self-winding movement has a power reserve of 42 hours, protected by a screw-down case back. There are a number of different colourways including stainless steel with a ‘Pepsi’ bezel, and rose gold-tone stainless steel with a ‘Root Beer’ bezel.
There’s also a grey IP coated option with a full lume dial if you’re more into night diving.
Bell & Ross
BR 03-92 Diver White
With an atypical shape for a dive watch, the BR 03-92 transitions Bell & Ross’ hallmark cockpit-instrument-derived square case from the sky to the sea.
Measuring 42mm and realised in every material from lightweight matte-black ceramic to old-school bronze, the quadrilateral shape lends itself remarkably well to a diver’s wristwatch.
An anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal combined with high contrast Super-LumiNova filled hands and indices against no-nonsense dials mean they all boast easy legibility in any condition.
Our pick of the bunch is the Diver White, inspired by icy seas, polar oceans and frozen lakes. But there’s a matte black ceramic version if you want something moodier.
