Over the last two decades, Larry Jayasekara has honed his craft in some of Europe’s finest kitchens. Marcus Wareing, Alain Roux, Michel Bras, Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay have all shaped his career. As former head chef of Pétrus, he’s already led one great institution. His next challenge? Building one of his own.
He’s not attempting it alone. Helping him realise that ambition at The Cocochine is Ian Wace – billionaire hedge fund manager and owner of the 1,100-acre regenerative Rowler Farm in Northamptonshire, which supplies much of the restaurant’s produce.
Wace also happens to have a private island (as one does) in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, Tanera Mòr. It's from Tanera’s shores that much of the seafood is sourced, including the largest scallop I have ever seen. More on that later.
Larry Jayasekara at the Rowler Estate
Cattle at the Rowler Estate
Before then, you’ll need to decide exactly where you’re going to eat. Behind the discreet frontage, the main dining room seats 28 in plush comfort. Leather-clad handrails lead upstairs, where a striking mosaic floor – inspired by the work of photographer Guido Mocafico – introduces a more theatrical feel to proceedings. Here, a seven-seat chef’s counter overlooks the open kitchen, where guests can stop for cocktails and canapés or settle in for either the à la carte or tasting menu. It can also be reserved exclusively for intimate private dinners.
The top floor is entirely dedicated to private entertaining. Accommodating up to 16 guests, it is crowned by a five-metre coffered ceiling and original roof lights that flood the room with daylight. A restored period fireplace, bespoke oak, leather and stone furnishings, plus its own kitchen and wine storage, make it feel more like an elegant private residence than a conventional dining room. It has to be one of the most singular PDRs in town.
We opted for a front-row seat: full tasting menu at the counter – where the chefs are so close that the only way to get nearer to the action would be to pull on some whites and start prepping our starters.
Fortunately, the snacks are served before we have the chance. A bowl of dangerously moreish Devil’s cashew nuts arrives alongside the most refined twist on a Coronation chicken sandwich this side of afternoon tea at Buckingham Palace.
A light, bright crab starter comes next, paired with an equally fresh and floral Mosel from legendary winemaker Egon Müller. Allow me a quick shoutout at this stage for the ebullient wine director Emanuele Gechele, whose enthusiasm is almost as memorable as the wines themselves.
Indeed, the following pairing was possibly his most inspired. The wine was a dry zweigelt from Austrian producer Kracher. It was the first time I’ve tried this grape, but certainly won’t be the last. Its rich plumminess and herbal spice made it the ideal companion for possibly the best beef tartare of my life. The beef itself is aged for 40 days – half at the farm, half in the salt ager at the restaurant. It’s then mixed with pickled chilli, confit egg yolk, and plum jam before being spooned onto a crisp romaine lettuce leaf. The final touch is a (very generous) serving of Oscietra caviar from Iran.
A brace of breads introduces some well-timed carbs: a textbook sourdough roll made from 95% hydration dough is cracked open beside a sticky, sweet brioche bun laced with caramelised onions, curry paste and cardamom powder.
And then came *that* scallop.
Scottish XXL hand-dived scallop from Tanera Mòr.
Mark Hedley
Rowler Farm dry-aged spring lamb with garden peas.
Mark Hedley
This XXL hand-dived specimen is fist-sized and sourced exclusively from the pristine waters around Tanera Mòr, weighing up to 1.2kg in its shell. One bite in, my dining companion put down his fork. “That’s the new course leader,” he declared. “It’s too good to finish.” Topped with vibrant shavings of dehydrated scallop roe, swimming in a coconut and tomato sauce finished with pandan leaves, it was a rare treat indeed.
Both fillet of Scottish wild turbot in a spiced wild prawn sauce, and lobster barbecued in banana leaf brought more of Jayasekara's Sri Lankan heritage to the fore.
Rowler Farm dry-aged spring lamb rounded off the savoury courses, indulgently accompanied by smoked bacon sauce and garden peas.
There was barely room left for the 'Watalappam' Sri Lankan ‘crème caramel’ which came topped by tuile, layered with crème fraîche ice cream, and crowned with one final dose of caviar for good measure.
Jayasekara may have spent much of his career learning inside other people’s institutions, but this feels unmistakably like the beginning of his own. Judging by this opening chapter, The Cocochine has every ingredient to become one of Mayfair’s defining dining rooms.
The Cocochine private dining suite
Paul Winch-Furness
27 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London W1J 6NQ, thecocochine.com
