Medbourne being barely an hour from Central London is one of those facts you struggle to comprehend, like sharks being around longer than trees or samurai existing at the same time as Abraham Lincoln.
But the numbers don’t lie: 55 minutes from St Pancras to Market Harborough and another ten in a taxi will transport you to one of the most picturesque villages this side of a postcard, a place of honeyed stone and green lawns where time doesn’t stand still so much as cease existing as a concept altogether. Medbourne means ‘meadow stream’; you will find both here, plus several bridges, a church, a village store and a pub with rooms.
The pub is called the Nevill Arms. It stands beside a brook, surrounded by cottages and attracts plenty of locals and visitors alike. Built from the aforementioned honeyed stone, the Grade II listed building seems to glow golden in the afternoon sunlight. Although your taxi will deposit you directly outside the front door, there’s something extremely enjoyable about crossing the little wooden bridge on foot, passing numerous happy drinkers on the terrace out front.
Inside the Nevill Arms is a lovely combination of traditional pub and boutique hotel. The main bar is dominated by a fireplace big enough to roast an ox; there’s funky wallpaper and artwork all over the place; the back courtyard is swollen with plants, trees and tables, perfect for whiling away a lazy afternoon. Local hospitality group Three Goats spent more than a million on refurbishment after acquiring the venue in 2021; the money is visible everywhere you look.
"A fireplace big enough to roast an ox"
Don’t get the wrong idea: the Nevill Arms is still a village pub, first and foremost. All members of the Three Goats live less than ten miles from the hotel, and most of the regulars reside round the corner. We met a couple on the front terrace, the one overlooking the brook. They’d lived in Medbourne for twenty years and adored the area. They informed us in some detail about the annual bottle-kicking match with the neighbouring village of Hallaton, held on Easter Monday.
The vibe may be relaxed; the food is taken very seriously indeed. Executive chef Chris Bolan previously ran the kitchens at the Michelin-starred Trinity in Clapham. The ingredients are seasonal and locally sourced, with much of the meat coming from the farm of co-owner Ellie Uppal just up the road in Great Easton. This includes beef from Belted Galloway, a breed known for producing incredibly flavoursome meat.
"The food here is taken very seriously indeed."
We dined al fresco in the courtyard. It was predictably delightful. For starters, Cornish crab arancini and charred summer peaches on sourdough, the latter flavoured with feta and honey. This is sophisticated cooking, perfect summer food for perfect summer evenings. The hours drift away like dandelion seeds.
Back to the West Course for the main course, Cornish sole meuniere served with roasted new potatoes and a lovely light Grenobloise. I opted for the duo of lamb that came with gnocchi, roasted aubergine and even a lamb croquette. Generous and delicious in equal measure. A word on the fries, which come handsomely portioned and can be garnished with parmesan and truffle.
While we visited on Friday, the pub offers several weekly meal deals. Tuesday is steak frites night, an 8oz Galloway bavette steak and chips costing a mere £15. And for the same amount, you can enjoy two courses at the Monday supper club – be sure to reserve a table in advance as I’m told it gets packed out.
A bedroom – "comfortable and chic"
The journey to bed will be a short one if you’ve booked one of the ten boutique rooms. These are comfortable and chic; ours included a four-poster bed, a writing desk and a mirror that turned into a TV (or vice versa). The sizable bathroom had bath and rainforest shower, plus ample luxury toiletries. I enjoyed a most therapeutic soak after walking from Market Harborough, several hours spent traversing some extremely pretty countryside and countless stiles.
There are several great walks in the surrounding Wellend Valley. You can head up to Nevill Holt, the country estate which hosts a music festival every June. Alternatively cross the fields to Great Easton to quaff a few celebratory pints at the Nevill’s sister pub The Sun Inn. And nearby Uppingham has some lovely shops and antique stores, although you might want to take an Uber (cost about a tenner).
The area has been compared to the Cotswold in recent years, albeit at a fraction of the pretension and price. Frankly I think that's selling it short. Take the short trip up to Medbourne and see for yourself.
12 Waterfall Way, Medbourne, Market Harborough, LE16 8EE; The Nevill Arms
