The evolution of Patek Philippe's annual calendar watch
Twenty years after Patek Philippe launched its first annual calendar mechanism, Robin Swithinbank charts the brand’s ever-evolving ways of displaying the date
Ref 5396
2016
Patek patented its annual calendar mechanism on 1 March 1996 – 20 years and 21 models later, in comes the new Ref 5396. Unlike Patek’s original, this new piece has a moonphase, as well as day, date and month indications. It’s available in either a rose or white gold 38.5mm case, and follows in the footsteps of Patek’s round-cased design classic, the Calatrava.
Ref 5035
1996
Prior to 1996, no one had ever seen a mechanical watch with a date that only needed correcting once a year, on either 28 or 29 February. Patek’s yellow gold Annual Calendar Ref 5035 model set a new watchmaking benchmark, and did away with the moonphase indication found in perpetual calendars, replacing it with a 24-hour subdial instead.
Ref 5146
2005
Nine years after its first annual calendar, Patek introduced a replacement, the Ref 5146. The update had a moonphase in place of the 24-hour subdial, and carried a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Peter Mandelson was famously spied wearing a slate-grey-dialled version of the watch at the 2009 Labour Party Conference, doing wonders for the champagne socialist stereotype.
Ref 5147
2006
In updating its annual calendar to include moonphase and power reserve indicators, Patek also upped the number of parts in the watch’s movement to 355. Curiously, this figure was considerably higher than the 275 required to make the more complicated perpetual calendar, which accounts for leap years. The Ref 5147 has 62 brilliant-cut diamonds set into its bezel.
Ref 5350
2006
In 2006, just 300 of the Ref 5350 ‘Patek Philippe Advanced Research’ special edition were made. It marked a significant moment in the use of silicon parts in high-end watches with its silicon escape wheel (the oscillating wheel visible through the case back), and ‘Spiromax’ balance spring made of ‘Silinvar’. Silicon delivers all kinds of benefits in watchmaking, including resistance to friction, changes in temperature and magnetism.
Ref 5033
2007
Don’t be fooled by the unvarnished aesthetic of the Ref 5033. Despite its look, it’s one of the more complicated annual calendar watches in Patek’s inventory. On the left side of its tonneau-shaped case is a lever that, when pulled, activates the watch’s minute repeating function, chiming the time on demand.
Ref 5205
2010
Patek has found numerous ways to display the various indications of its annual calendar. The least intrusive is in the Ref 5205 that positions the day, date and month at the top of the dial, while the large subdial at 6 o’clock carries both moonphase and 24-hour indications.
