Brought to you by
Specialists from leading London auctioneers Roseberys share why auctions are becoming the savvy way to acquire luxury goods ahead of their upcoming Jewellery auction on 23 September and Watches and Luxury Items auction on 24 September.
For collectors and investors alike, the secondary market offers access to storied pieces with provenance, authenticity and exceptional value.
Jewellery, watches and luxury items are well-developed collecting categories and investor confidence is strong: luxury sales accounted for a decade-high 18.8% of auction turnover in early 2024, rising to over 20% this year. At the top of the market, luxury goods have even helped offset sluggish visual art sales.
Jewels with a story
A pair of mid Victorian diamond drop earrings formerly owned by a viscountess estimated between £6,000-£8,000
Roseberys
A highlight of September’s Jewellery auction is a pair of diamond earrings, formerly owned by a viscountess and immortalised in a portrait by society painter Philip de László. “Jewels are often tangible pieces of history,” says Catrin Jones, Head of Jewellery. “That sense of lineage is harder to replicate in the retail market.”
Practical advantages abound: retail markups can climb to 300%, while auction prices are often more competitive. Every piece consigned to Roseberys is rigorously authenticated by qualified gemologists and valuers, giving buyers confidence that can be missing from online resale platforms. “Buying second-hand jewellery is also inherently sustainable,” adds Jones. The metals and gemstones already exist, eliminating the need for new mining.
Assorted jewellery and watches from Roseberys’ September sales
Roseberys
Investing in Time
“The second-hand watch market is dynamic and youthful, increasingly shaped by fashion,” says Watch Specialist Kate Lacey. Collectors are discerning, prioritising both aesthetics and technicality - a complex movement can be as enticing as a flashy dial.
Appreciation need not be academic; a sleek Concord Delirium Mariner, for example, can be acquired for under £5,000. In the upcoming sale, whimsical designs, such as a Vacheron Constantin bracelet watch shaped like a shell, sit alongside Cartier classics, offering the opportunity for collectors to invest at different strata.
A Cartier Tonneau offered in the September auction at £7,000-£9,000
Roseberys
These investments are not the preserve of the ultra wealthy. In January, a rare Cartier London watch sold for £31,440 against a £10,000-15,000 estimate. Produced for just eight years between 1966 and 1974, the London maison’s horological output is scarce yet still within reach of serious middle market collectors.
At a more accessible level, a Bvlgari Serpenti watch sold for £11,546 in June, compared to its £20,000 retail price.
The Luxe Lane
Luxury accessories are another arena where auctions offer what retail environments cannot. Waiting lists at brands like Hermès can stretch for years; at Roseberys, buyers can access rare, discontinued and special-edition pieces, fully authenticated.
Take an Hermès Vert Céladon Himalaya Kelly offered in the September sale; described as the “world’s rarest handbag,” this green ombré alligator model predates and inspired the now-iconic Himalayan and is no longer in production.
A rare Hermès Vert Céladon Himalaya Kelly 32 estimated to sell for £60,000 - £80,000
Roseberys
"Qualified auction specialists can discern real from fake through stamps, hardware, zips, and packaging, amongst other details, protecting buyers and guaranteeing a legitimate investment," says Sally He, Luxury Items Specialist.
Roseberys’ Jewellery auction takes place on 23 September, followed by Watches and Luxury Items on 24 September. Browse the catalogues now at roseberys.co.uk
