12 luxury watches from less than £5k

Offering a superb level of understated glamour, Chopard’s H watch (also known as reference 13/ 6621) represents extraordinary value for money compared to the new RRP. All diamond set watches offer great savings in the secondary market, but this one distinguishes itself not only by price, but also completeness; it comes with all boxes, instructions and original UK Sale papers detailing the diamond cut and carat weight. 

One of the world’s most recognisable watch brands, Panerai were originally designed for the Italian navy but have long been deeply desired collectors pieces, offering sporting rugged looks and easy changed straps. This particular example is a rare one, being a Panerai Luminor with original PVD coated stainless steel case and tang buckle. Also known as reference PAM004 or PAM0004, this reference was only produced between 1998 and 1999 and has a T SWISS T dial,  (tritium) and B reference, meaning it is a transitional piece. The watch represents a perfect opportunity for a discerning collector.

The Pierre Kunz Cupidon is the ultimate statement watch. The movement itself features two hearts inter twined, clearly visible through the sapphire presentation case back. The 18k rose gold case is covered in pave diamonds to the front, side and lugs including the case sides partially hidden by the leather strap. The 18k rose gold Pierre Kunz tang buckle is also set in diamonds to the end. The dial is pave rubies featuring three hearts. Designed to be Cupid's watch, the Cupidon exudes romance and luxury.

The Rolex Oysterquartz was Rolex’s 1970s offering to the battery powered mania which gripped the watch industry and nearly ended the Swiss stronghold on watch manufacture. Produced in relatively limited numbers, thought to be around 25000 in total, in steel, steel and gold and all gold, the Oysterquartz has a very different and retro look and values of good Oysterquartz watches has increased significantly across the past few years. This one features an 18k yellow gold case, and heavy gold bracelet, and is complete with original Oysterquartz box and paperwork. 

Defining simplicity and understated elegance, this superb vintage Rolex Oyster Precision 6426 features a stainless steel case and original folded Oyster bracelet with a full complement of links. Rarely do vintage Rolex steel watches become available in such original condition, and this example proves that the entry price to vintage Rolex collecting need not be off-putting. 

Heuer were early adopters of black out watches, using PVD covered steel. Popular as military watches, offering a stealth appearance, and also as stylish alternatives to traditional stainless steel sports watches. This rare Heuer Montreal features the famous Cal. 12 automatic movement, with date and chronograph. Exceptionally, this example is presented in as new condition, unworn and would make a super addition to any serious watch collection in particular, a vintage Heuer collection. 

When Pierce Brosnan took over as James Bond, he sported an Omega Seamaster 300m “blue wave” dial. Omega has been James Bond’s choice since then, and these early blue dialled watches provide superb value for money and offer classic elegance as well as rugged versatility. Whilst the choice of these is vast, we recommend seeking the best available, such as this automatic chronometer. 

Arguably the world’s most recognisable dive watch, the Rolex Submariner has evolved since its introduction in 1953, (with date function introduced in 1965) yet maintained the same characteristic look. Equally at home in the sea or in an office, the Submariner is the go-to watch for versatility. This example is one of the last reference 16610, and comes as a complete set. 

Its hard to believe that the original Heuer Monaco was introduced in 1969, such is the freshness of the design. Instantly recognisable as it was worn by Steve McQueen in the film “Le Mans”, and as the watch gifted in “Breaking Bad”, the Monaco has its roots firmly in motorsport and Tag Heuer have been making reissues since 1998. Most desirable is the blue dial which looks amazing with a blue leather strap. This particular example is complete with all papers and boxes from new. 

The quintessential vintage pilots watch, this Breitling Navitimer 7806 dates from 1973 and is a rare transitional model, being the first Navitimer to feature a date function as well as chronograph and sliding bezel for measuring flight times. Interest in vintage chronographs is growing and this rare model has excellent investment potential given its originality and stunning matching patinated hands and dial.

Often overlooked in favour of its GMT Master and Submariner siblings, the Rolex Explorer II , reference 16570 offers a rugged yet elegant appearance with a 40mm case, and a useful second timezone function. Ideally suited for daily use or special occasions, the Explorer II also offers superb value compared to the other Rolex sports / “professional” models. This particular example is one of the last of this reference, and features the desirable Rolex engraved inner bezel, and cal. 3186 movement. We tip these as usable investment pieces.