Chic isn’t a word usually associated with Canary Wharf. Steely, yes. Shiny, sure. Skyscrapers? Obviously. But not chic. Not until now.
For now Marceline has arrived, a brasserie that could easily be situated by the Batignolles rather than the Blackwell Basin. Technically Marceline is situated in Wood Wharf but I couldn’t think of any Parisian neighbourhoods beginning with W. Indeed, Marceline is situated ON Wood Wharf, a beautiful glass pavilion on the water.
From the outside, it looks like a spaceship. Cross the walkway and you’ll find yourself in a modern version of the 1920s, if that isn’t unforgivably oxymoronic. Big colourful artworks, orange leather paired with golden mahogany, a mezzanine floor that adds a pleasingly theatrical touch and a bar large enough to an entire arrondissement.
Class isn’t limited to the decor. Head chef Robert Aikens worked with the Roux brothers at Le Gavroche and his own brother Tom for the launch of Tom’s Kitchen. Sommelier Jeffrey Koren counts the three-starred Norwegian restaurant Maaemo on his CV. All the staff are delightful. So is the food itself.
The menu is très français as you would hope. There are escargots in garlic butter. Cheese souffle with truffle. Onion soup. Moules frites. Those feeling the need for comfort can sample croque monsieur or (if you must) cheeseburger a l'Americaine. I went for steak tartare and half a lobster frites; “non, je ne regrette rien!” as the lady sang. OK, I may regret not ordering the ravioli du dauphine – essentially a ravioli blanket covered with melted butter. (Imagine a Cadbury’s chocolate bar but yellow.)
There is one non-negotiable: the two-sip vodka martini. It comes dirty in a tiny wee glass and makes you feel like a giant while drinking it. Don’t down it in one (vulgar) or stretch out your sips to three (pathetic). Two sips then order another – they’re a fiver each! Normal sized cocktails and ample wine are also available from Koren's abundant cellar.
Fancy a weekend treat? Then hit up one of their Champagne Cellar Raid brunches, served from 10am - 4pm on Saturday and Sunday. Many sparkling wines are reduced by more than half than usual prices, with bottles starting from £35 and running up to £148. Order a plate of oysters and make a day of it. Très Très Bon.
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5 Water St, E14 5GX; Marceline
