Vacheron Constantin
Patrimony Self-Winding ‘Ora ïto’
Forming a new part of Vacheron’s 1950s-inspired Patrimony collection, the Patrimony Self-Winding chooses to really bring styling to the forefront. Made in collaboration with French product designer Ora ïto, this particular iteration features a proud yellow gold theme throughout, namely: the 40mm case, dial, hour/minute markers, three from-the-centre hands and strap’s pin buckle.
The dial employs some particularly noteworthy detailing by way of the ‘pearl’ shape used for those applied solid-gold minute markers and the bold concentric circle pattern. The strap too is of note, burgundy calfskin leather, it features a uniform line of almost-futurist-like rectangular decorations.
Celebrating 20 years in 2024, the Patrimony collection proves what Vacheron is capable of when it strips back some of its more flamboyant haute horlogerie techniques and goes back to basics with good old fashioned classic watchmaking fundamentals.
Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date
Debuted in 2002, the Concept Collection is a forum that Audemars Piguet uses to produce some of its most avant-garde pieces. And its latest, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date, is certainly singing from the same hymn sheet – cramming all those name-checked complications into a high-tech 43mm CFT forged carbon case.
Patent protected and developed in-house over the last five years, the Chroma Forged Technology (or ‘CFT’) facilitates direct colouring of the carbon fibre strands, as opposed to the overall resin material. And in this case, whimsically enough, with glow-in-the-dark pigmentation.
Better still, the new carbon material also gives increased resistance to humidity, heat, and shocks to ensure the watch not only looks the part but punches above its (light)weight when it comes to the material stakes. Powered by AP’s Calibre 4407 automatic movement, it benefits from a 70-hour power reserve.
Gagà Laboratorio
Labormatic Cinquanta
This article isn’t just about new watch launches, but new watch brands, too.
When Italian styling meets Swiss precision, magic happens – welcome to Gagà Laboratorio.
Gagà Laboratorio is a new watch brand made by a team of people who have been in the watch business for more than 20 years with the goal to create timepieces that are designed and made for watch collectors but available for all. (Well, at least, most.)
On aesthetics alone you could easily guess at a £42,000 price point for the Labormatic Cinquanta. But actually, the Cinquanta comes in at a tenth of that – £4,200.
The Labormatic comes in two different families: the Bauhaus, inspired by the popular architectural and artistic movement, and the Cinquanta – inspired by Italian Dolce Vita of the 1950s. The latter also takes some of its inspiration from the Italian economic boom of the time, where everyday objects transformed into works of art.
Under the hood, you’ll find a La Joux-Perret movement with personalised rotor; while details include a double-curved anti-reflective sapphire glass; a see-through sapphire caseback; and a Saffiano leather strap handmade in Italy.
The Cinquanta certainly captures the zest for life of the 1950s, a time when the world was rediscovering peace.
In today’s increasingly disconcerting times, this is exactly the kind of watch we all need right now.
Hublot
Essential Grey Classic Fusion
Once is unique, twice is a sequel, thrice is officially a tradition (not to mention an underused word).
Since Hublot launched its Essential Grey series, the annual launches of its online-exclusive grey editions have become eagerly anticipated by the brand’s aficionados.
The Big Bang Unico received the Essential Grey treatment first, followed by the Spirit of Big Bang – and now it’s the turn of the Classic Fusion.
Coming in 42mm or 45mm, both feature titanium cases and bezels, integrated bracelet, satin-finished bezel and sunray finished dial.
The 42mm Classic Fusion Essential Grey beats to the rhythm of the HUB1110 Calibre, while its 45mm big brother is powered by the HUB1112 movement.
The design and engineering perfectly blend the forms and functions specific to each case. Both have a guaranteed power reserve of 42 hours.
Laurent Ferrier
Classic Auto Sandstone
The latest ‘future classic’ from horological genius Laurent Ferrier is a handsome beast indeed. Limited to 20 numbered-pieces, the Série Atelier VI: Classic Auto Sandstone comprises a charming 40mm polished-steel case, ‘onion’ crown, a lacquered copper-tone ‘cross hair’ dial, snailed 6 o’clock small seconds dial, 3 o’clock date window, and a stellar Côtes de Genève decorated micro-rotor calibre.
One imagines its archetypical wearer to be, say, a gentleman racing driver – the eponymic Monsieur Ferrier himself, a former Patek watchmaker, actually competed in the 24 Hours of Le Mans seven times, winning a category in 1977. Technically refined and aesthetically spruce, it’s a great example of well conceived and well executed haute horology.
First unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, this particular model set the convention ablaze with discussion – proving, were it in any doubt, that the cachet of independent watchmaking has never been higher in the eyes of collectors.
Biver
Automatique
Founded by watch world titan, Jean-Claude Biver and his son, Pierre, the eponymous Biver brand was launched in 2023 with an audacious tourbillon minute-repeater model.
Contrasting and diversifying the Biver line-up, the brand’s sophomore effort is a staple ‘everyday’ automatic three-hander.
Called simply the Automatique, it utilises a micro-rotor movement with zero-rest hacking – a function which ‘snaps’ the seconds hand to 12 o’clock upon engaging the crown’s time-setting position.
Its 39mm case, elongated lugs, ‘sector’ dial and dauphine-style hands all hark back to the horological mid-century design language so beloved by collectors.
In short, it’s a beauty.
Breguet
Type XX Chronograph
Building on the success of last year’s collection-reboot, Breguet has given its Type XX flyback chronograph a Midasian makeover for 2024.
As such, the new Type XX ‘civilian version’ of its military-inspired pilot’s watch features an attractive rose gold case and midnight blue dial/bezel.
Perfect for timing excursions to metropolitan restaurants and coastline bars alike, it’s supplied with both alligator and fabric straps (replete with 18ct gold hardware) to cover all the bases.
The Type XX was first produced in the 1950s under contract for the French Air Force, but commercially available versions for the civilian market quickly followed, including three in gold – the prequels to this watch.
Tudor
Black Bay Chrono Blue
After the runaway success of the Black Bay Chrono ‘Pink’, Tudor has released the Black Bay Chrono ‘Blue’. A boutique exclusive piece, the blue in question has been used on both the sun-brush finish dial (with contrasting silver sub-dials) and the anodised aluminium tachymeter-scale bezel.
Tudor keenly notes that blue is, in fact, a colour strongly associated with its brand heritage having been used extensively on its former flagship ‘Snowflake’ Submariners and heritage Chronographs such as the ‘Monte Carlo’ Oysterdate. Driving the hands of the Black Bay Chrono Blue is an in-house COSC-certified self-winding movement, with 70 hours of power reserve and the operational superiority of a column wheel and vertical clutch to power the chronograph.
First introduced in 2012, the Black Bay is no longer a disrupting force in the accessible luxury portion of the market, but the leading light from which many other brands take its cues. This latest offering is proof of the collection’s longevity.
Panerai
Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs PAM01518
The latest offspring from Panerai’s now three-year-old official partnership with the United States’ Navy SEALs, the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs is a 300-metre water resistant, steel cased 44mm diver’s watch. Befitting its SEAL lineage, the 9 o’clock seconds sub-dial incorporates a target/cross hair symbol, whilst the rubber and textile strap bears an AOR-1 arid-conditions camo’ pattern.
Use of AOR-1 is said to be restricted to only a handful of US Navy suppliers.
In terms of movement, it uses Panerai’s 163-component P.9000 calibre, with hacking seconds function and a three-day power reserve.
Frederique Constant
Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture
Frederique Constant has been on a roll in 2024, with a string of fresh releases that showcase the brand’s focus on accessible in-house manufacturing. Top of that list is the revamped Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture, which features a redesigned dial and the new FC-716 automatic movement featuring an increased power reserve of 72 hours – nearly double that of previous iterations.
The pared-back dial, which houses the moonphase indicator and date complications at 6 o’clock, comes in either navy, silver or green.
However, if you're looking for something a little grander, there’s also a limited-edition model with a stunning malachite dial and 18k white gold case.
Hamilton
Khaki Field Quartz
Hamilton’s Khaki Field watches have a (relatively, in the world of horology) long and illustrious lineage tracing back to the wristwatches supplied to military and government from the Second World War onwards.
The new Khaki Field Quartz draws inspiration from the 1960s/70s’ G.S. (General Service) watches that were ‘tropicalised’ for use in hot and humid climates, and issued to British personnel working overseas.
In line with the watch collection’s utilitarian background, this Khaki employs a namesake quartz movement alongside a stainless steel case construction, ‘fauxtina’ lume on the indices and numerals, 50 metres of water-resistance and a hardy NATO strap.
Oris
Oris x LFP Limited Edition
A good watch is one thing, but a good watch for a good cause? Even better.
Introducing the Oris x LFP Limited Edition – a collaboration between Oris, France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel and the French association of children’s charities, CNAPE.
Oris is the Official Timekeeper of the LFP – and it’s fair to say no European football league has a greater commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility than the LFP, which proudly delivers more than 2,000 operations in support of 2,500 organisations.
The 1,000-piece LFP Limited Edition is based on Oris’ retro sports design, the Divers Sixty-Five. But you’ll note a number of special features inspired by CNAPE – defined by a script typeface chosen to symbolise the innocence of a child’s handwriting. (And fortunately it’s a hell of a lot cooler than Comic Sans.)
This script is used in place of all the dial writing – including the Oris logo itself – a rarity in the conservative Swiss watchmaking game.
The words “water resistant” are even in a rainbow of colour, chosen to mirror the logo used for CNAPE’s children’s football tournament, known as “Les Défenseurs de l’Enfance”, or “defenders of childhood”.
This is one watch which definitely has the feel-good factor.
Studio Underdog x H Moser Cie
03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
In a collaboration no one saw coming, Studio Underd0g has paired up with H Moser & Cie to create the 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit.
A riff on Studio Underd0g’s popular chronograph model, the watch is given a Moser makeover, stripping away hour markers and dial text.
It’s then finished with a “Coarse Dégradé”, dial in passionfruit orange and purple. Visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, a manual wind Sellita movement lies within the 38.5mm case.
A sister product, using H. Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Calendar as a base, twinned with a matching colourway completes the collaboration.
Christopher Ward
C60 Trident Lumière
Christopher Ward’s Trident collection celebrates its 15th anniversary in 2024 with the Lumière: a 41mm helium-escape-valve-equipped titanium diver’s watch, powered using an automatic Sellita movement with 54 hours of power reserve.
As its name suggests, the Lumière’s phosphorescent hands and hour markers – not to mention the applied logo – take centre stage.
Using solid 3-D blocks of Globolight, a Super-LumiNova infused ceramic material, the watch boasts remarkable levels of luminescent visibility.
Presented on either a three-link bracelet with micro-adjust clasp or a rubber strap, it’s available in black, blue or orange dial colourways.
