The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XX will take place on Saturday and Sunday 9 and 10 of November.
It has a somewhat unorthodox line-up in the sense that it’s practically devoid of watches made during the ‘neo-vintage’ epoch of the 1980s-1990s – that era being the focus of the themed sale ‘Reloaded’.
It does of course include many timeless classics of watch collecting, though – the likes of Patek Philippe 1518, 2499 and Nautilus, Rolex Daytona, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and Cartier Crash, to name but a few.
However, my highlights are more focused on less well-known, quirkier and sometimes downright obscure timepieces. Hopefully they provide a refreshing change of pace – and an excuse to log on and register your interest.
Cartier Oblong and Concave
Lot 125
It is punned that Cartier is “jeweller of kings, king of jewellers”. When it comes to watchmaking, it would be more appropriate to say the brand is the King of Design: the House has created an astonishing number of “cult” models, ranging from the famed Crash, to the Santos, to the Tank, the Bagnoire, the Pebble, and so forth.
In fact, the company is arguably the only watchmaker whose most sought-after creations are virtually exclusively time-only pieces.
The present watch not only perfectly exemplifies this concept, but it furthermore shows how rare and little-known some of the most incredible designs of the brand still are.
Such is the case with this Oblong and Concave, a potentially unique piece which can be described as a sculpture for the wrist that plays with shapes and finishes in an exquisitely Cartier way.
Est: 20,000-40,000 CHF
Patek Philippe ref. 2438/1 waterproof perpetual calendar with moonphases
Lot 110
Among the rarest vintage models by Patek Philippe – with estimated production of about 60-70 pieces – reference 2438-1 is at the same time an example of Patek Philippe going completely out of its usual path, and an historical landmark for watchmaking.
It is important to consider that in the 1950s, when the model was commercialised, the brand was – even more than today – a champion of high-end, refined watchmaking. There was no Nautilus nor Aquanaut, and it made virtually no concession (with notable exceptions) to tool or sport’s watches – which were the realm of other brands, Rolex at the forefront.
That is why the world was taken by surprise when they launched ref. 2438-1: a centre seconds perpetual calendar with moonphases fitted with a waterproof case, making it the very first waterproof perpetual calendar model in history.
To put things in perspective, the world will have to wait 30 years (1984) for the second one – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak perpetual calendar with moonphases ref. 5554.
Est: 250,000-500,000 CHF
Vacheron Constantin ref. 4178 ‘pink-on-pink’ with pulsometer scale
Lot 205
One of the most classic propositions of this list, this chronograph from 1945 showcases design traits strongly associated with Vacheron Constantin – most notably, the half-teardrop lugs – and features an extremely scarce configuration with I find superbly attractive.
Not only does it mount a salmon dial on a pink gold case (a ‘pink-on-pink’ or ‘PoP’ watch – highly in demand among vintage collectors of any brand) but it furthermore sports an unusual pulsometer scale.
All of this is topped by a very large-for-the-time 36mm case and immaculate condition. A true treat for the vintage lover.
Est: 25,000-50,000 CHF
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 3730 with Onyx dial
Lot 142
The Golden Ellipse line of watches was introduced by Patek Philippe in 1968 as a more architectural counterpart to the classic round Calatrava models, with an elliptical design proportioned according to the Golden Section – a ratio (1:1.6181) often found in nature and incorporated in some of humanity’s artistic masterpieces (most famously, the Parthenon).
Potentially the least well known line of watches made by Patek, it incorporates in my opinion an elegance hardly ever seen in other models.
This example is made particularly collectible by its onyx dial which renders this specimen extremely rare and, aesthetically speaking, offers one of the deepest, most uniform shades of black one can find in watchmaking. A perfect counterpart to the warm gold case.
Est: 15,000-30,000 CHF
Rolex Day-Date Rainbow ref. 18188
Lot 234
The Day-Date has always been a canvas for Rolex onto which it can experiment in surprisingly varied ways.
The case of this model has been adorned with a number of different bezels and finishes, and the dial witnessed a true explosion of materials and designs with examples made in malachite, fossil, marble, enamel, onyx, or featuring different engravings and gem-set numerals.
It is then small surprise to learn that what is today one of the most celebrated (but was until a few short years ago one of the most controversial) decorations in watchmaking was first employed by Rolex on a Day-Date.
I am of course talking about the rainbow configuration. Such early examples – of which a handful are known – are particularly interesting as they showcase how Rolex was still ‘coming to terms’ with the design, most apparently in the transition from red to blue sapphires which is somewhat more abrupt than found on more recent examples.
Est: 250,000-500,000 CHF
A Lange & Söhne Lange 1 “Oeding-Erdel” ref. 112.047
Lot 123
The Lange 1 was one of the four models released by Lange when the company was re-established in 1994. Over time, it became a true icon for the brand thanks to its unmistakable dial design: large double-windowed date, two eccentric subsidiary dials for time and seconds, power reserve indication on the right edge of the dial.
Usually featuring a very classic, teutonic style with azurage to the subdials and a simple matte finish to the rest of the surface, some examples do break free from these constraints – among those, the engine-turned pieces.
The most common style features a wavy pattern, but rarer examples are known with linear guillochage. Yet, this specimen presents an even more uncommon decoration.
While the centre of the subsidiary dials presents the wavy pattern most commonly seen, the rest of the dial is decorated with a surprising nearly industrial lozenge pattern, for an irresistible final result.
It was made in only ten examples – of which this is number one – for the German retailer Oeding-Erdel in 2005.
Est: 25,000-50,000 CHF
Rolex Daytona ref. 6264 in gold with “Lemon” Paul Newman dial
Lot 115
When the Daytona was launched, it was a true professional watch intended for race drivers. Thus, it had to be light, resistant and easily readable. All qualities that are absolutely absent from the gold Newman models.
Featuring a heavy soft metal case and ornate architectural dials, they are definitely not answering a driver’s needs, especially if racing down a track at 200mph.
This is why vintage gold Daytona in general, and even more so gold Paul Newman models, met very little success during their commercialisation – only in hindsight their superb aesthetics and extreme rarity made them one of the most beloved categories in watch collecting at large.
Even within this rarified echelon, however, there are tiers of importance and the ‘Lemon’ is among those sitting at the very pinnacle.
It differentiates from the normal champagne Newman thanks to its brighter dial tonality – which gives it its moniker – and the white (rather than the gold) graphics of the subsidiary dials.
The genesis of this design is uncertain, most likely it was an effort on Rolex’s part to improve legibility; what is certain is that ‘Lemon’ Paul Newman Daytonas are among the most striking and important representatives of the Daytona universe.
Est: 800,000-1,600,000 CHF. See all the lots at phillips.com
