There was a time when new watch launches were reserved for just two major trade shows.
Customers and critics alike would have to patiently wait for SIHH and Baselworld before they’d get their first taste of the year’s watchmaking manna.
But since the pandemic – and the dissolution of Baselworld – this particular rulebook has been thrown out of the metaphorical window.
From early January, we've been treated to some phenomenal new timepieces, with the new models and special editions continue to drop.
In this article, we’ll aim to cover every significant release as and when it happens. So if you’re a fan of luxury watches, bookmark this page – and we’ll see you back here soon…
Girard-Perregaux
Laureato Chronograph Ti49
They say life begins at 50. Well, Girard-Perregaux has jumped the gun a year: to celebrate the 49th anniversary (why not, eh?) of the Laureato, the brand has launched a new Laureato Chronograph Ti49.
It unites the model’s iconic octagonal case design – first seen in 1975 – with ultra-desirable Grade 5 titanium. This is the first time the alloy has featured on a classic Laureato reference.
Grade 5 titanium is light, strong, stiff, corrosion resistant, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic; all useful attributes for watchmaking. Plus, it’s just a really awesome colour.
Accentuating the titanium’s grey hue, the design riffs on a palette of monochromatic shades. A Clous de Paris pattern on the dial helps deliver extra depth, while grey PVD-treated baton-style hour and minute hands and matching baton-type indexes further enhance the 3D effect.
Brushed surfaces contrasting polished highlights help finish off this remarkable sports watch – one of our favourites from Girard-Perregaux in recent years.
Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in Sand Gold
It’s difficult to pick a favourite from Audemars Piguet’s 2024 spring novelties. The John Mayer Royal Oak special is certainly in with a shout – its embossed crystal sky dial is a real show stopper. And if you’re a Code 11.59 fan, then you’ll be loving the seven – yes, seven – new models in pink gold.
But for us, the gold medal has to go to the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked.
And by gold, we mean Sand Gold. AP has literally created a new alloy for this new edition. By swapping the silver for palladium, white gold is converted to an galvanic grey-pink ‘Sand Gold’, the colour of which fluctuates depending on the angle and light.
To complement the new gold case and bracelet, AP also developed a matching sand-gold hue for the openworked bridges and mainplate of its handsome Calibre 2972.
The interplay between this new finish and the rhodium-toned components of the movement’s inner workings results in one of the most effective openworked set-ups to date.
£POA, audemarspiguet.com
Certina
DS Action GMT Powermatic 80
Certina’s DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 is built for natural-born adventurers. (Action is its middle name, after all.)
The latest iteration of the DS range includes a GMT function: while the central hour, minute and second hands show the local time at home, a slim hand fitted with a luminous arrowhead points to the bezel’s 24-hour scale to show the time at the traveller’s destination; and the sapphire-crystal bezel also rotates, giving you a third time zone.
The Powermatic 80, of course, references the renowned automatic movement loaded with a remarkable 80 hours of power reserve. This cutting-edge calibre is fitted with a NivachronTM balance spring for enhanced protection against magnetic fields (encountered a lot during air travel).
The DS Action is just as capable in the water, though – 200m of water resistance is mightily impressive at this price point.
It boasts a fittingly robust 41-mm stainless steel case with a screw-down and protected crown and a screw-in case back with sapphire crystal insert.
There are three versions, all come with either a stainless steel bracelet or leather strap, easily switched thanks to Certina’s quick-change system.
From £995, certina.co.uk
Fears
Redcliff 39.5 Date
Fears was first established in 1846, but was wound down after the retirement of Amos Daniel Fear in the mid 1970s. It was reborn in 2016 by the great-great-great-grandson of the company’s founder Edwin Fear, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. The watch he relaunched with? The Redcliff Quartz, taking its name from the Bristol district where the company was originally founded.
Eight years on, and the brand has given the Redcliff a mechanical reboot. The new Redcliff 39.5 Date boasts a customised La Joux-Perret G100 movement, which features automatic winding, quick-set date and a generous power reserve of 60 hours.
The timepiece’s slim case echoes the silhouette of both the quartz Redcliff alongside the historic Fears models from the 1940s and 1950s. Choose between four different hand-finished dials: Pewter Grey, Raven Black, Cherry Red, and a boutique-exclusive Mallard Green.
Each dial features hand-applied, diamond-cut indices that are hand-filled with Super-LumiNova in Switzerland. The 12 o’clock index features a subtle reference to Fears’ Bristolian heritage with the applique mirroring the same angles and shape as the towers of the famous Clifton Suspension Bridge. (You’ll be forgiven if you didn’t spot that particular reference.)
The watches come with a pair of straps that can be swapped easily courtesy of quick-release spring bars: a bespoke, three-link bracelet made from 316L stainless steel for an integrated feel and a textile strap made from a tightly 3D woven nylon material with an Alcantara® lining for a sportier vibe.
£3,150, fearswatches.com
Ollech & Wajs
M-52B AF (Air Force)
The new M-52B AF (Air Force) is a limited production reimagining of an Ollech & Ways military watch that first appeared in its catalogue back in the mid 1960s. The Ollech & Wajs B-905 ‘US Airforce’ was custom made for airmen serving in Vietnam.
The M-52B AF is not only a ticking tribute to this rare timepiece, but also a salute to the plane many of the airmen flew: the B-52 Stratofortress. The B52 is the longest-serving combat aircraft in history – and, fittingly, 2024 marks the 70th anniversary of its maiden flight in 1954.
On its dial, the M-52B AF features the unmistakable silhouette of this iconic bomber, and the watch's PVD-coated chamfered-edge bezel is also modelled on the streamlined nose-cone profile of the B-52. And, just like the plane, its solid 39 mm M-type case has been built to last.
The engine of the M-52B AF is a customised, Swiss made, Soprod calibre P024, chosen for robustness, reliability and serviceability. A gently domed, thickened sapphire crystal helps retain a vintage vibe while also ensuring an impressive 300m water resistance.
The M-52B AF is presented with a military-grade black nylon RAF strap. A stainless steel mesh bracelet with hand-brushed OW-engraved thorn buckle can be ordered as a more dressy alternative. Both suit the watch well.
There will be just 56 engraved crown numbered editions at launch. Thereafter, a limited production of non-numbered watches will be made available each year.
From £1,126.93, ow-watch.ch
Tissot
PR516 Chronograph
Tissot’s original PR 516 dates back to 1965. According to the advertisements of the time, it was meant to be used “On the track, in the air, in the water – everywhere!” A tool watch for the everyman, as it were. Whether ‘PR’ stands for ‘Particularly Robust’ or ‘Precision Resistance’ is up for debate, but either way, the model was renowned for being as strong as it was stylish.
Three years later, the PR 516 Chronograph joined the family. The Chrono naturally became associated with motorsport – so much so that rally legend Henry Bradley wrote the watch’s name on the fender of his Ferrari out of pure fondness for the timepiece.
Accelerate to 2024, and the Chrono is back, better than ever. Tissot’s new collection sees the PR516 reimagined in a mechanical and three quartz variants, all of them a ticking testament to the original.
Its tapered stainless-steel 41mm case combines robustness and style, with three counters for classic timing functionality, while the tachymeter and pulsometer on the bezel offers the ability to measure speed and heart rate. The bezel, indices, and baton hands are all coated with Super LumiNova® to ensure enhanced visibility in all conditions.
Look under the hood of the manual-winding version, and you’ll find the Valjoux A05.291 movement, specifically designed for this model. This antimagnetic movement packs an impressive 68-hour power reserve, and comes loaded with advanced shock-resistance tech.
It’s a thoroughly contemporary tribute to a timeless design.
Tissot PR516 Chronograph, from £475, tissotwatches.com
Hamilton
Ventura XXL Dune Limited Editions
You may associate Hamilton’s iconic Ventura with blue suede shoes more than blue Fremen eyes. But Elvis’s favourite watch (as worn in his film Blue Hawaii) has been re-imagined to celebrate Hamilton’s collaboration on the new Dune sequel.
Dune’s director asked Hamilton to work directly with the film’s prop master to craft a watch that was truly out of this world. The resulting ‘Desert Watch’, as seen in the film, inspired the creation of two new iterations for the open market.
Both Venturas feature luminous blue details reminiscent of the Fremen's unmistakable blue eyes. The Ventura Bright includes a button replicating the glowing blue lines of the ‘Desert Watch’ dial design; while the Ventura Edge has a digital display in blue, mimicking the relief elements seen on the prop in the film.
(Of course, this is not the first time we’ve seen the Ventura go intergalactic – Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones both rocked a version in the Men in Black series.)
These latest editions are a fitting salute to filmmaker Denis Villeneuve’s mythical world – and what’s been hailed the best sci-fi film of the past decade.
Ventura XXL Bright Dune Limited Edition, £1,585, limited to 3,000 watches; Ventura XXL Edge Dune Limited Edition £2,235; hamiltonwatch.com
Bremont
Bremont Bamford Aurora
Dune isn’t the only sequel in town. Bremont and Bamford have teamed for the second time to launch a new collab: the Aurora.
The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition, released in April 2022, was the first fusion of these two British brands, notable for its ‘California Blue’ Super-LumiNova accents contrasting with a matte DLC finish.
For Round 2, we’re going green. Aurora borealis green, to be exact. The team has taken the northern lights as inspiration for the luminescent accents on the hands, markers and bezel. And this time it’s Bremont's Supermarine GMT which has had the Bamford treatment.
The 43mm Stainless Steel DLC-coated Trip-Tick case is complimented by a bi-coloured polished sapphire crystal 24-hour bezel for day and night indication, and a luminous California sandwich dial design.
The black nubuck leather strap is finished with green stitching and a DLC-coated pin buckle to complete a striking timepiece.
Limited edition run of 500 pieces, £4,900; bremont.com
Piaget
Polo 79
It’s only 6 February as we write this, and already we might just have had the coolest watch drop of the year.
Piaget has recreated its original 1979 Polo watch – as symbolic of that era as the radio cassette and rolled-up suit sleeves – in all its glorious 18k gold. (Two hundred grams of it, to be exact)
Naturally, the Polo 79 enjoys a few contemporary upgrades. Most significantly, the fashionable quartz of the time has been swapped for the in-house 1200P1 automatic microrotor movement.
The case has been enlarged from 34mm to 38mm to fit the tastes of our time. (Although I wouldn’t be surprised if a smaller case size joins the collection this time next year.)
The integrated bracelet and case are still defined by those glorious gadroons – the polished bars that alternate between the brushed segments.
It’s a fitting celebration for the brand’s 150th anniversary – and heralds the return of yellow gold to the top of the horological trend tree.
£69,000; for more information, see piaget.com
Grand Seiko
SBGX355
Grand Seiko continues its mission to bring quartz to the luxury watchmaking conversation. The Japanese brand has made a quartz version of its fan-favourite ‘Snowflake’.
The SBGX355 has the same stunning dial of its Spring Drive forebear as well as the high-intensity titanium case. But the size has shrunk to 37mm, and the price has followed suit, down from £5,800 to £3,700.
It’s fitted with the Grand Seiko 9R quartz movements: the crystals are grown in-house – with only the finest being picked for Grand Seiko’s timepieces.
£3,700, grand-seiko.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve
It’s what’s inside what counts, right?
Dressed in 18k pink gold and with a striking blue sunray-finished dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest update to the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve is undoubtedly a thing of beauty. Yet its most meaningful updates are more than skin deep.
The previous Calibre 938 could only manage a modest 43 hours of power reserve, but the new iteration delivers a far more impressive 70 hours. A tactical deployment of silicon, alongside a redesigned mainspring, have led to the improvements.
JLC have form in this regard: the brand’s 1948 Powermatic, recognised by its distinctive red-and-white indicator, was the world’s first self-winding timepiece with a power reserve gauge.
£20,040, jaeger-lecoultre.com
Zenith
Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
It’s fair (if somewhat ironic) to say heritage is the style du jour. Few watch brands have mastered the ticking tribute as adeptly as Zenith.
Of course, it helps that the Swiss brand has the legendary El Primero portfolio to lean on in this department.
Its latest release is this – the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar.
It combines the latest iteration of the legendary automatic high-frequency chronograph with a triple calendar and moon phase.
Although this is the first time this combination has been seen on a Chronomaster, it’s actually been a long time coming – 55 years, to be exact.
In 1969, the El Primero was actually designed to accommodate both triple calendar and moon phase functions right from the very beginning. A series of 25 prototypes were produced in 1970 as a proof of concept, but it never made it out into the wild, until now.
The Seventies’ loss is our gain. Better late than never.
From £12,100, zenith-watches.com
Hublot
MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium
A watch with no dial, no hands, no oscillating weight? OK, Hublot – you have our attention.
The MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium is anything but conventional, forgoing the traditional mechanical watch layout and replacing it with roller display, a circular power reserve and an inclined tourbillon automatic winding by two linear weights.
There are 592 components in total, and not one of them is a hand. Why make a dial and a calibre, when they can be one and the same? A bold move, for sure.
Hublot’s Manufacture Piece (MP) releases never fail to raise eyebrows – or, indeed, the watchmaking bar – and this tenth edition is no exception.
The avant-garde design won’t be to everyone’s tastes – but at £227,000 a piece and a limited run of 50, only a very select few will ever be able to buy one.
£227,000, hublot.com
Dior
Chiffre Rouge
Twenty years after its first launch, the Chiffre Rouge collection has had a reboot from Dior.
It retains its statement features, such as the red crown at four o’clock and red matching seconds hand.
The case has been subtly enlarged with a more tapered side, and there’s some trademark Dior cannage detailing on the strap and the dial.
There are eight new models across two sizes (38mm and 41mm) – and all are equipped with an automatic mechanism visible through a sapphire case back.
The number eight is a bit of a thing for Monsieur Dior – it’s his lucky number (a happy coincidence that the Chinese market also can’t get enough of it). And so it’s also the only numeral in the date display to be highlighted by a vibrant shade of red.
This one is more evolution than revolution – or, as Dior puts it, “between tradition and metamorphosis” – yet it’s a handsome improvement on the collection which had been shelved roughly a decade ago.
So, welcome back, Monsieur Rouge.
Prices start from £6,800; dior.com
Frederique Constant
Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture designed by Peter Speake
Horologist Peter Speake is watchmaking royalty. The British founder of Speake-Marin doesn’t give his time or expertise lightly. So bravo to Swiss brand Frederique Constant in securing it for the latest addition to its Manufacture collection.
The new collaboration has yielded this: the stunning Slimline Perpetual Calendar. You can see Speake’s prowess throughout – the skeletonised perpetual calendar has been designed for easy reading, displaying day and date horizontally and month and moonphase vertically.
Just the kind of thoughtful design you’d expect from such a master.
It boasts a meticulously finished FC-775 calibre movement. And the minimalist colour palette of white on matt anthracite grey really allows the craftsmanship to do the talking.
£11,995. For more information, see: frederiqueconstant.com
Hamilton
Khaki Aviation Pilot
There’s never been a point in history when pilots weren't cool. But the recent success of Top Gun: Maverick has undoubtedly boosted the global appeal of ‘naval aviators’.
Following suit, pilot's watches are becoming ever more popular. One brand with serious cred in this department is Hamilton, which has been making pilot’s watches for more than century.
In 1918, Hamilton watches were chosen to time the first U.S. Airmail flight between New York and Washington, D.C. and Hamilton timepieces have remained at the forefront of cutting-edge aviation ever since.
This year sees the launch of seven new references in the Khaki Aviation Pilot collection.
Rugged yet technical and reliable, each reference is powered by the H-10 automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve and Nivachron™ balance spring. The hour and minute hands are treated with a radiant Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® coating. And each reference is water-resistant up to 10 bar (100 meters) – you know, should the worst happen.
The Khaki Aviation Pilot collection includes four 36 mm references and three 42 mm references. Our pick pairs dark leather with a green dial in homage to the Khaki’s outdoor roots.
From £915 - £990, hamiltonwatch.com/en-gb/pilot-automatic-watch
Rado
Anatom
Rado has long been a pioneer of square-faced watches since the Manhattan model in the 1960s. And the brand has often reimagined it in different ways – including the iconic Anatom.
A testament to its forward-thinking design, the original 1980s Anatoms still look futuristic now.
Its name comes from the perfectly anatomical fit of the watch on the wrist, aided by its rounded sapphire crystal.
To mark its 40th anniversary, Rado has updated the line. The new models enjoy a case made from the latest Rado high-tech ceramic; and for the first time, a textured rubber strap for a sportier feel.
It’s been fitted with the extra-slim Rado R766 calibre, boasting an impressive 72-hour power reserve as well as an antimagnetic Nivachron™ hairspring.
Other highlights include a black matte high-tech ceramic crown, and a lacquered dial with horizontal satin-brushed background and gradient.
There are three colourways to choose from – or you could plump for the Jubilé version. Limited to just 40 examples, this all-black edition comes with 11 baguette diamonds as indexes.
When it comes to Rado, it’s definitely hip to be square.
Anatom Automatic, £3,150.00; Anatom Automatic 40th-Anniversary Edition, £9,600. rado.com
The best watches of 2023
Last year was a big one for the watch world, with some iconic models being launched – and others given a new lease of life.
Alongside the winners of the Square Mile Watch Awards, here were some of our favourite new drops over the year:
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Cartier launched the Privé collection in 2017 as a limited-edition “collectors’ collection” of its most iconic references. That it has taken the storied brand a full six years to introduce a faithful reimagining of the original Tank Normale, one of the greatest watch designs of all time, is somewhat surprising.
But we’re all for the virtues of patience and this rip-roaring rendition, known as the Privé Tank Normale, was certainly worth the wait.
The Privé Tank Normale is inspired by the very first Tank designed by Louis Cartier in 1917 and released to wide acclaim two years later. More than a century on, this new watch borrows the same proportions as the original, as well as some of the key aesthetic codes that became the cornerstone of the collection: the square shape, the bevelled sapphire crystal, the satin-brushed brancards (the most tank-like feature on the watch) and, of course, the Roman numeral dial with inner railroad track.
There are five new references in the collection, including two skeletonised models featuring a quite unusual 24-hour display, but for us the classic closed-dial iterations in either a yellow gold or a platinum case have captured our interest.
The star of the show here is the matching precious metal seven-row bracelet. It’s the first time since the 1980s that Cartier has executed such a bracelet in platinum and the result is absolutely exquisite. The seamless integration of the bracelet onto such an iconic design is quite the aesthetic payoff.
A Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone
Originally launched in 2005, the Lange 1 Time Zone does what the Saxon brand has done since its revival in the 1990s: make painstakingly meticulous watchmaking look effortless.
The model received a technical update in 2020 when it was given shiny new hardware in the form of the Calibre L 141.1. That movement continues to deliver one of the most sophisticated and yet easy to operate world timer complications you’ll find on any watch, but now it does so in elegant monochromatic fashion thanks to a brand-new platinum guise (seen above), part of A Lange & Söhne’s summer 2023 launches.
Price on application; alange-soehne.com
Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model (ref. 16202)
Tapisserie too linear for you? Standard Jumbo too, er, jumbo for you. Don’t worry – AP has you covered with its latest Extra-Thin white gold version of the Royal Oak, complete with a deliciously textured blue grained dial. Just a shame that sapphire crystal is in the way, as we want to scratch it!
This limited edition is powered by the Calibre 7121, the latest extra-thin movement that was introduced in January 2022 for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. The limited-edition timepiece comes in a white gold case and will be available exclusively in Audemars Piguet boutiques.
£67,300, audemarspiguet.com
Chronographs
A Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar remains one of the great (and most complicated) chronographs of the 21st century – boasting a perpetual calendar with a leap year Moon-phase display, and split-seconds (or ‘rattrapante’) chronograph. It’s a magnificent feat of horological innovation.
To celebrate ten years since its inception, Lange has crafted a super limited-edition set of 100 pieces finished in white gold with a contrasting rose gold dial. Is it salmon or is it pink? The truth is it hardly matters. It’s beauty and the beast all in one.
Oh, of course, in typical Lange fashion this watch is almost prettier through the sapphire exhibition caseback than it is viewed from the front.
Price on application; alange-soehne.com
Breitling Top Time Triumph & Top Time Dues
Alongside the Navitimer, the Top Time was one of Breitling’s best-selling watches of the 1960s. Launched in 1964 as a mainstream alternative to the utilitarianism of its pilots’ watch sibling, the Top Time was all elegance and style to the Navitimer’s hardy practicality – and that’s very much the headline of its modern re-issue as well.
Earlier this year, Breitling introduced four automotive-themed Top Times into its collection, inspired by the Chevrolet Corvette, the Ford Thunderbird, the Shelby Cobra, or the Ford Mustang. If you’re more of a fan of machines with two-wheeled machines you might have been rightly jealous. No longer.
Breitling has now launched the Top Time Triumph, inspired by the iconic British motorcycle manufacturer, and the Top Time Deus, which honours the Australian motorcycle brand Deus Ex Machina.
The two watches are both powered by Breitling’s Manufacture Calibre 01 and feature a 41mm stainless steel case, but the dial execution is very different. The Top Time Triumph is a two-register chronograph featuring a very handsome vertically brushed ice blue dial and contrasting black subdials, with the Triumph Motorcycles logo just above 6 o’clock. The Top Time Deus, on the other hand, is a classic three-register reverse-panda chronograph, with a shock of red on the tachymeter scale and the lightning bolt seconds hand. It also features the Deus' motto In Benzin Veritas (In Petrol we Trust) on the tachymeter.
Leathers sold separately…
£6,250, breitling.com
Grand Seiko Tentagraph
It’s amazing to think that in more than 60 years of production Grand Seiko has never created a mechanical chronograph. That is, until now, of course. The Japanese watchmaker has righted that particular wrong in emphatic fashion with the launch of the Tentagraph; a world first ten-beat chronograph with a whopping three-day power reserve.
This being Grand Seiko, the devil is in the details. The Tentagraph boasts a dual-impulse escapement, which twins indirect impulses from the pallet fork with the direct impulse from the escape wheel to create an incredibly efficient movement capable of oscillating at ten beats per second and 36,000 times per hour for three days straight. On top of this, you have a vertical clutch column wheel to ensure high accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. Those are some impressive numbers.
As its first mechanical chronograph, Grand Seiko has changed up its testing regime to ensure each timepiece meets its famously exacting standards. The watches are tested in six positions at three different temperatures over a period of 17 days, before an additional three days of testing with the chronograph running to guarantee perfect operation.
It might have taken 60 years, but Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph was worth the wait.
£12,500, grand-seiko.com
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda
Vacheron Constantin's sporty number, the Overseas, gets the panda treatment for the first time. Made in steel, this is raciest colourway yet: silver-toned, sunburst satin-finished dial, snailed black counters, black velvet-finished flange, and 18K white gold markers and hands.
The watch also comes with three tool-free interchangeable bracelets and straps; steel, calf leather and rubber – depending on your mood and your outfit.
£31,200, vacheron-constantin.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm in black ceramic
New for 2023, AP’s Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42 mm gets its first ceramic bracelet. Matched with a black ceramic case and black Petite Tapisserie dial, this is a monochrome masterpiece. It's a fitting tribute to the watch affectionately nicknamed 'The Beast' – this year celebrating its 30th anniversary.
It’s powered by the Calibre 4404, Audemars Piguet’s integrated chronograph movement complete with flyback function.
£72,500, audemarspiguet.com
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 Limited Edition
The final ever Boeing 747 rolled out of the factory in December 2022 ending a 54-year production run. To celebrate the Queen of the Skies, Breitling has released this Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 Limited Edition in tribute.
The colours on the dial echo the palette found on the original Jumbo Jet from 1968, captured in its cream dial with black subdials and red-and-white slide rule with blue accents. The “Boeing 747” name is also integrated into the slide rule’s inner scale.
£7,300, breitling.com
Sports
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
The new Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante takes the concept of last year’s GMT Rattrapante, and applies it to what Parmigiani is calling the ‘scuba function’.
If you think of the rotating bezel on a dive watch and how this is used to mark how many minutes of oxygen you have in your tank, Parmigiani here has taken that concept, removed the bezel, and in place used a second minute hand to highlight your remaining time. It’s a very clever, very elegant solution to a specific problem.
Operated via push buttons at eight (five minute increments) and ten (one minute increments) to set the minute to dive, the rattrapante function on the crown then resets the time - hiding the hand beneath the main minute hand.
As one of Parmigiani’s marketing team described it to us, “If you don’t want to wear it on a dive, it’s a very stylish way to time how long to boil an egg.” Who needs an egg timer, right?
CHF28,000, parmigiani.com
Hermès H08
The Hermès H08 was one of the most talked about watches of 2021. This year, it gets a material makeover.
It starts with the DLC-treated titanium case-back which is then topped by a rose gold case middle. This contrasts with a black ceramic bezel and crown.
Alternating between satin-brushed and polished finishes, it’s a masterpiece in two-tone finishing.
£4,610, hermes.com
Adventure
Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer
Few complications are quite so well equipped for adventure as a GMT worldtimer and fewer watches still are capable of offering such horological punch for less than £2,500. But here we are: the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer.
The first thing you'll notice is there's a lot of information to take in here. Hours, minutes, seconds, date, a red-arrowed GMT hand, and of course 24 different cities and corresponding time zones. The latter is the star of the show here and works simply by unscrewing the crown at 4 o’clock and turning the internal bezel to your current city (or locale in the same timezone) until it's adjacent to the current hour. Easy as that.
There's two options to choose from depending on what kind of adventurer you are: a stealthy black DLC option and a more rustic green-dialled option with a bronze bezel and stainless steel case. Both very fetching, both finished with a graduated dial and some small flourishes that really represent a heck of a lot of bang for your buck in one tough little cookie.
£2,495; raymond-weil.co.uk
Certina DS-2 Turning Bezel Sea Turtle Conservancy
A tonneau-shaped case; a vintage design that harks to the 1960s; and an automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve and NivachronTM hairspring… there’s a lot to like about Certina’s DS-2 Turning Bezel.
And then you find out that it supports a great cause, too: this grey-blue Sea Turtle Conservancy Special Edition is also dedicated to the future – namely, the preservation of our oceans and their inhabitants.
£880, certina.co.uk
Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Titanio & Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Verde Militare
Panerai makes butch watches; BRABUS makes butch cars. Put the two together and you get a watch Action Man would be proud of.
There are two battle-ready editions to choose from, each utilising a different next-generation material technology: the Submersible S BRABUS Verde Militare Edition, featuring a case, bezel and locking crown mechanism made of the brand's proprietary Carbotech material, and the Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Titanio, which is made of Titanio and crafted using Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology – a 3D printing process that enables the watch to weigh just 115g without compromising on water resistance or durability.
Both feature the P.4001/S manufacture calibre, with a GMT hand, a date aperture and an AM/PM indicator on the steampunk-like skeletonised dial. There's water-resistance to 300m and 72 hours of power reserve to square off all adventure-related eventualities to boot.
£43,900 (Titanio) & £45,500 (Verde Militare), panerai.com
Christopher Ward C65 Dune Automatic
A proper field watch from Christoper Ward, the C65 comes in a few guises – an Automatic, a GMT and a limited edition Bronze.
Our pick is the standard Automatic – especially in this desert-inspired colourway. There are some classy 1960s/70s vibes about it – such as the box crystal – alongside a water-resistance of 150m, and power courtesy of a Sellita SW200-1 movement.
£695, christopherward.com
Heritage
Grand Seiko ‘Urushi’
Grand Seiko is a master of re-creation. Its first of 2023 is a tribute to the first ever Grand Seiko, released in 1960.
It pays homage to the complex skills of watchmaking and local Japanese artisan craftsmanship undertaken to create that watch – and every model it's produced since.
Isshu Tamura, Grand Seiko's master lacquer craftsman, uses the 380-year-old Kanazawa craft of Kaga maki-e to create each dial. The Urushi lacquer dial is layered then carefully polished to a mirror-like finish.
£12,450, seikoboutique.co.uk
Accutron Astronaut T
You’d be forgiven for thinking Omega was the only watch brand to make it into space.
But Accutron – the world’s first fully electronic watch – was also one of the key timepieces that the US government and NASA utilised in the Space Race.
The watch was ideal for aerospace usage due to it being electronic and not relying on your typical mainspring.
During May of 1963, the Accutron Astronaut watch was worn for the first time in space on mission Mercury-Atlas 9, which orbited the Earth. By 1968, the ‘T’ version was officially issued to all pilots of the USAF X-15 experimental rocket-powered aircraft programme.
And now, 55 years later, Accutron has brought it back as the brand’s very first re-edition, with a 41mm stainless steel case including sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating, and a partial exhibition case back showing its SW330 GMT movement
£2,790, accutronwatch.com
Seiko Presage Takumi 'The Laurel' 110th Anniversary Edition
Back in 1913, Seiko built Japan’s first ever wristwatch, named the Laurel. To celebrate its 110th anniversary, Seiko has released a new Presage which pays homage to it.
The case shape, the arabic numerals, the enamel dial, even the large onion crown are all faithful reconstructions of the original, while the piece is brought up to date with a modern automatic movement within.
Limited edition of 2,500 pieces, £1,600, seikoboutique.co.uk
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary
The first Heuer Carrera was released 60 years ago – and there’s no way TAG Heuer can let that pass by without celebration.
The 600-piece edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is a fitting tribute. The panda dial alone is enough to get our motor running.
£6,100, tagheuer.com
Watches under £1,000
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles
Tissot’s Swiss headquarters on Le Chemin des Tourelles was established in 1907. Fast forward to 2023, and the brand has released an evergreen classic in its honour.
The Chemin des Tourelles boasts a retro domed sapphire crystal, which sits over a domed soft-sunray dial. Slimline hour markers are curved and gently faceted adding to the depth of the timepiece.
From £730, tissotwatches.com
Dress
Grand Seiko Majestic White Birch
Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio is responsible for some of the most intricate pieces of craftsmanship you’ll see anywhere on the planet, and its latest creation only goes to underline this point.
The Grand Seiko Majestic White Birch certainly lives up to its regal name, featuring a staggering hand-engraved platinum case and matching metallic dial, with the mighty manual-wind Spring Drive at its heart.
Pictures simply don’t do this phenomenal piece of craftsmanship justice. In the metal, the handiwork is nothing short of dazzling with every turn of the wrist starting a veritable light show of colour and shade. It’s like a piece of optical art that tricks the eye into seeing motion where there is none.
One neat little touch is the seconds hand finished in a tempered grey so as to not interfere with the overall visual effect.
Given there’ll be just 50 pieces worldwide, the craftsmanship isn’t the only illusory trick Grand Seiko has played; blink and you’ll miss this rare creation.
£67,450, grand-seiko.com
Grand Seiko ‘Lake Suwa Before Dawn’
Continuing Grand Seiko’s ‘Nature of Time’ inspiration, its latest watch is inspired by Lake Suwa in the moonlight. The lake is located near the Shinshu watch studio where the watch is made.
It’s powered by the Spring Drive calibre 9RA2 – with its mighty 120-hour power reserve.
£8,700, seikoboutique.co.uk
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in steel
AP has given the Code 11.59 a new coat of steel armour. Formerly only available in precious metals, and then with some integrated ceramic, Code 11.59 now has six new stainless steel references to choose – in both Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph form.
But perhaps more exciting than the material is the brand-new stamped dial. The new pattern has been specially developed for the occasion, and is made up of concentric circles that create a unique ripple effect. The pattern of waves that move outwards from the centre of the dial is decorated with hundreds of tiny holes that play with the light.
Our favourite is this version which combines steel with black ceramic – who said beige was boring?
£23,900, audemarspiguet.com
Technical
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4
Audemars Piguet is a dab hand when it comes to creating some of the most intricate and ingenious high-complication watches, but its latest timepiece is one of its most impressive to date.
The Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, part of AP's Code 11.59 collection, is the most complicated watch it has ever made, incorporating an eye-popping 40 functions, 23 complications, and 17 special 'technical devices' which the brand say will form the backbone of new movements for years to come.
Most impressive of all, perhaps, is the fact that the Universelle is assembled from 1,100+ components and yet still fits on a 42mm wide wristwatch with a slim-enough depth of 15.55mm; truly a staggering feat of microengineering.
Price on request, audemarspiguet.com
Read our in-depth analysis of the Universelle here.
Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III
This is genuinely eye-catching watchmaking for an incredibly competitive price. Hamilton has released a rotating, double-sided case with a semi-skeleton layout, in a limited edition of 999 pieces for well under £3k.
The double-sided dial concept has one face doing the time-telling and chronograph functions, and the other featuring measurement scales and an exhibition movement.
£2,595, https://www.hamiltonwatch.com/en-gb/jazzmaster-face-2-face-iii-reversible-watch
Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton
Last year’s DEFY Skyline has been given the skeleton treatment. The different finishes – combining matte, satin-brushed and polished surfaces – further accentuate the depth of this timepiece.
But despite its almost sci-fi quality, its unique octagonal geometry still nods to the early DEFY models of the 1960s.
£9,700, zenith-watches.com
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in Neon Yellow Saxem
Renowned for its shy and retiring watches (ahem), Hublot has made its Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic stand out from the crowd with a neon yellow finish previously unseen in watchmaking.
Saxem stands for "Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral" – developed for satellites then hijacked by Hublot for watches. Available as a limited edition of 50 pieces, it will be a rare sighting in the wild – but you certainly won’t miss it.
£182,000, hublot.com
